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Drying home-grown chiles is no sweat
Thursday, August 31, 2006

Anyone who's even the tiniest bit adventurous when it comes to food has probably eaten some type of chile pepper, whether it's pickled jalapenos on top of nachos or a fiery chile-based Thai curry. One of the first cultivated crops in Central and South America, these glossy vegetables have been part of the human diet for more than 7,000 years.

Amy Sancetta, Associated Press
The color, shape and intensity of chile peppers varies widely. Cooks should wear gloves when handling the hottest peppers.
Click photo for larger image.
Today, they're such a common part of the American diet that there's even a magazine, Chile Pepper, devoted to the food.

If my household is any indication, it's not just adults who derive gastronomic pleasure from chiles. While my husband and youngest daughter prefer their food on the tame side, the rest of us crave dishes infused with a little bite.

Forget such pedestrian condiments as ketchup or barbecue sauce. We'd rather slather Frank's Red Hot or sriracha -- a Thai-style hot sauce made from sun-ripened chile peppers, vinegar, garlic and sugar -- on our burgers and chicken. My middle son, Jack, in particular, so loves the heat generated by these spicy veggies that in third grade, when he was just 8 years old, he insisted he contribute my recipe for Penne ala Vodka, a spicy tomato-cream pasta dish, to a classroom cookbook. (I can only hope all the other mothers realized the alcohol would burn off during cooking.)

Now old enough to appreciate the subtleties among the different varieties of hot peppers, Jack for two years running has planted his own hot-pepper garden, the fruits of which we dry in the oven and then grind into piquant flakes. Jalapeno, cherry hot, habanera -- it all tastes good sprinkled on foods from pizza to ramen noodles.

There are dozens of varieties of hot chile peppers in all shapes and sizes, with flavors ranging from mild (Anaheim and Hungarian cherry) to tongue-numbing, blistering hot (habaneras and Scotch bonnets). But generally speaking, the smaller the pepper, the more intense the taste and heat level according to the Scoville scale, a measure of heat in peppers based on how much fiery capsaicin they contain. They all get their heat from capsaicin, a flavorless, odorless substance produced by glands at the stem end of the pod that act on pain receptors in the mouth and throat.

Chile peppers can be eaten cooked or raw; most varieties can also be dried, canned in brine and smoked. One good way to dry the fruit is to tie the stems together with twine or string them together with fishing line -- thread the line onto a large-eyed needle and pass the needle through the stem of each pepper -- and hang in a dry, airy space (the pepper is finished drying when it's brittle and you can hear seeds rattling inside).

Or, even easier, lay the chiles on a stainless steel or wood drying tray and place it in the sun. If you're pressed for time, you can follow in Jack's and my (lazy) footsteps and bake halved peppers in a low-heat oven (about 150 degrees) for 2 to 3 hours, or until they are dry.

Removing the seeds and inner white "cross ribs" that run down the middle and sides of the pepper will reduce the heat level, since that's where capsaicin is concentrated. Be careful: If the pepper's volatile oils come in contact with your skin, it will burn like the dickens, especially if you have cuts or abrasions or inadvertently rub your eyes. You might want to consider wearing rubber gloves when handling them. At the least, be sure to wash your hands and nails thoroughly with soap and water after handling hot chiles.

When selecting fresh peppers, look for those with smooth, brightly colored skin and avoid those that are misshapen, shriveled or have bruises or soft spots. Dried hot peppers should be glossy yet unbroken. Fresh peppers can be refrigerated, unwashed and wrapped in paper towels, for up to three weeks, while dried peppers can be stored in airtight containers at room temperature for a maximum of four months.

Which type of pepper you choose, of course, depends on personal taste. But if that first bite is too fiery, dull the pain with milk or ice cream or a slice of lemon or lime (the acid will counteract the alkalinity of the capsaicin); water and beer will only distribute the heat to more parts of the mouth. Or follow Mexican cooks and serve your dish with sour cream or guacamole.

But there's a good reason for wanting our eyes to water and mouth to burn: chile peppers are very rich in vitamin C and provitamin A and are also a good source of most B vitamins, along with folic acid and potassium. In addition, red chile peppers, such as cayenne, have been shown to reduce blood cholesterol and triglyceride levels, fight inflammation and clear congestion.

They will also make you happy, and not just because they taste so darn good. Capsaicin is known to stimulate the production of endorphins, so eating chile peppers delivers an endorphin rush similar to that produced by the body after a good run -- and all without ever leaving the table.


JACK'S PENNE ALA VODKA

PG TESTED

This pasta dish, which features a light tomato cream sauce, is both quick and easy to make. Crushed red pepper flakes give it heat.

  • 1 pound penne or other tubular pasta
  • 1/2 stick butter
  • 1/2 cup vodka
  • 4 cups fresh diced tomatoes
  • 1 teaspoons red pepper flakes, or more to taste
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 3/4 cup half and half
  • 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  • You can substitute 1 28-ounce can of Italian plum tomatoes, drained

In a large pot of boiling water, cook pasta until al dente (firm to the bite). Drain immediately.

Meanwhile, melt butter over moderate heat. Add vodka and red pepper flakes and simmer for 2 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook until soft, approximately 15 minutes. As it is cooking, press with spoon to smash into small pieces. Add half-and-half and salt, and cook another 5 minutes.

Reduce heat to low, and right before serving, add the cheese and mix thoroughly. Spoon over drained pasta.

Makes about 8 servings.

-- Gretchen McKay


HOT PEPPER AND ORANGE PRESERVES

PG TESTED

This hot-and-sweet jelly is delicious with savory biscuits and spicy breakfast patties. But the best part is it takes only 6 minutes to make.

  • 1/2 navel orange
  • 1 to 1 1/2 hot fresh red chile peppers
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Quarter the orange half and remove the seeds; do not remove the peel. Carefully remove the stem and seeds from the chile pepper and quarter it.

Combine the orange and pepper pieces in a food processor and process until smooth. There may be small flecks of red pepper.

Transfer the puree to a deep, 2-quart microwave-safe casserole and stir in the remaining ingredients.

Cook at full power for 2 minutes. Stir and cook until thick, about another 4 minutes.

Allow the preserves to cool to room temperature, and then cover and refrigerate.

Makes 1 1/3 cups.

-- "The New Basics Cookbook," by Julee Rosso & Sheila Lukins


SALSA RANCHERA

PG TESTED

This cooked red salsa is a favorite in Mexico for flavoring food. A green version can be made by replacing tomatoes with tomatillos.

  • 1 to 2 tablespoons sunflower oil
  • 1 red onion, finely chopped
  • 1 garlic clove, crushed
  • 1 to 2 jalapeno chiles, minced
  • Handful of fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
  • 6 tomatoes, finely diced
  • Salt to taste

Heat the oil in a small saucepan over low heat and saute the onion and garlic until they start to soften. Stir in the chiles and cilantro and cook for a few more seconds.

Add the tomatoes and gently simmer until all the ingredients are soft and thickened. Season with salt.

This salsa can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Serves 4 to 6.

-- World Food Cafe, Chris & Carolyn Caldicott


JAMAICAN HOT PEPPER SHRIMP

PG TESTED

Peel these fiery shrimp as you eat them.

  • 4 cups water
  • 1/2 cup chopped scallion
  • 4 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 3 fresh thyme sprigs
  • 3 fresh Scotch bonnet or habanero chiles, halved and seeded
  • 2 tablespoons salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 10 whole allspice
  • 1 pound large shrimp in shell (21 to 25 shrimp per pound)

Combine all ingredients except shrimp in a 4-quart heavy pot and bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, 20 minutes.

Stir in shrimp, making sure they are just covered by liquid, and remove pot from heat.

Cool shrimp in liquid to room temperature, uncovered, about 1 hour.

Transfer shrimp with a slotted spoon to a plate or bowl and drizzle some of cooking liquid on top.

Makes 4 servings.

-- Gourmet

First published on August 31, 2006 at 12:00 am
Gretchen McKay can be reached at gmckay@post-gazette.com or 412-761-4670.
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