Left: Silver cuff bracelet by Diana Niepp of the South Side featuring garnet eyes on the center skull, $300. Center: Antique-inspired, bohemian-flavored "Tapestry" ring by International Diamond Distributors, made of diamonds and yellow and white golds, $2,160. Right: Think links, as in this Aaron Henry diamond and yellow gold chain bracelet, $11,350.

Think big, think chunky, think Art Deco.

And you've thought your way into women's fine jewelry for fall and winter.

"Black is back in fashion, so fine jewelry is more important than ever for both women and men," said Helen G. Krodel of the Jewelry Information Center, a New York-based industry trade group.

"One may risk looking morbid -- or, worse, like everyone else -- in a sea of deeply colored clothes this fall without it."

Several current fashion trends have inspired fine jewelry this fall and winter. There's a military feel to multiple-strand choker necklaces made of precious metals or encrusted with gems. Gilded and lacy details lend a regal Victorian air to austere pendants and brooches with dark, heavy stones such as onyx and amethyst.

Meanwhile, nature lends an air of whimsy to oversized flowers, leaves, branches and insects on necklaces, earrings, brooches and bracelets. And there's more fun with cutesy cartoon-inspired collections such as Walt Disney, Tweety by D'Annunzio Group International and Kimora Lee Simmons for Hello Kitty.

The skull-and-crossbones motif is edgy and popular. Jewelry designer Diana Niepp of the South Side was ahead of the trend when she began designing jewelry with skulls last year, and now her earrings, bracelets and rings with skull motifs are in greater demand.

"When I first did them, they weren't as popular, but now they are," she said. "I just like skulls, so I like doing them."

Gothic touches like skulls also are incorporated in romantic designs such as black pearl necklaces and black-and-white cameo earrings and pendants, which complement little black dresses or a menswear-inspired outfit.

"The punk rock thing is going on," said Anne Slowey, editor of Elle Accessories magazine. "But it's not scary; it's witty. Since fashion is so serious this season, and jewelry is so big, it's important that jewelry also has a sense of humor."

Speaking of borrowed-from-the-boys fashions, jewelry will play a major role in balancing looser jackets, big hats, gigantic bags and oversized gloves and shoes.

"It needs the bigger, bolder jewelry to stand out," said Ms. Slowey. "And even the piling up of necklaces. You're piling up bigger items."

She also recommends that women "think 'link.' " Link necklaces and bracelets in yellow gold are au courant, adding a little rugged elegance to sportswear and retro-80s looks such as black leather, long sweaters and miniskirts with leggings.

"There's still this fascination with luxury and richness," said Ms. Slowey. "Gold says that stronger than silver. That's one of the reasons we're seeing more gold than silver. And when you put gold against black or gray, there's a little more razz-a-ma-tazz."

"Important" bracelets such as cuffs, thick bangles and chunky charm bracelets rather than multiple thin bracelets are key trends going into autumn, said Ms. Krodel. Cocktail rings and rings with thicker bands are also showing up, she added, with some shoppers saving money by buying pieces heavy on large, colored gemstones and lighter on gold, platinum or some other precious metal.

"Earrings, rings, and necklaces with knots or bows of any size will be popular," Ms. Krodel predicted. "And many designers are harkening back to styles that were in vogue in the 1980s, which include ropes and links of all shapes and sizes."

Jewelry trends tend to follow apparel, so the themes appearing now are no surprise, said Mary Moses Kinney, director of the Independent Jewelers Organization in Norwalk, Conn.

"Jewelry tends to change with fashion, although not as quickly," she observed. "What goes around comes around. White has been strong for so long: pearls, diamonds, white gold, platinum. Now we're transitioning into color in stones, and you're seeing it go into the metals -- yellow, pink, green gold."

The colored gold and gems are also showing up in bracelets, which, like rings, are stronger, bolder, chunkier, more geometric. And while the statement necklace remains strong and gets larger, the statement cuff may be the hottest "in" piece.

Diamonds with subtle natural color are being worn more, Ms. Kinney noted, from brown and pink to blue and yellow. She credited celebrity trendsetters, from Jennifer Lopez's pink diamond ring to Jennifer Aniston's yellow one.

"Fine jewelry has become less serious and more wearable," said Ms. Krodel. "People are layering their regal pieces with their less precious. And most importantly, people are no longer 'saving' their jewelry for significant special occasions. They are wearing them, enjoying them and loving how fine jewelry and watches make them feel every day."