Bob Donaldson, Post-Gazette Dee Blemahdoo's use of African-inspired fabrics, detail and techniques is a growing trend in fashion. She sells her creations from her Blemahdoo's African Market Place in Homestead.

By LaMont Jones
Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

Dosina "Dee" Blemahdoo has dressed the Rev. Louwanda S.G. Harris from the parlor to the pulpit.

The Ghana-born fashion designer's African styles have helped the Rev. Harris stand out from that first skirt and jacket 15 years ago to three minister robes and, a couple of weeks ago, to two colorful outfits.

"They are quite creative," said the Rev. Harris of West Mifflin, a minister at Valley View Presbyterian Church in Garfield. "When you wear them, they're very personal. She makes certain that the clothes complement your frame and style. And naturally, the colors are always so beautiful."

Ms. Blemahdoo, 58, designs, sews and sells African-inspired apparel and accessories for men, women and children at her Homestead store, Blemahdoo's African Market Place. A current trend in women's ready-to-wear fashions is the influence of kente, mudcloth, cowry shells and other African patterns and embellishments.

Popular accents such as wood beads and shells, along with the trend toward white and earthy neutrals such as camel and brown, reflect an African aesthetic, said Amy Cafazzo, Marshalls' style expert.

"You're seeing it more on belts and bags," she said, "and especially on skirts and dresses that have African themes through them, because that works well with the natural embellishments."

Some people wear African-inspired clothing because of the comfortable fit and interesting colors and prints. For many, they are also a connection to a native land and its customs and rituals.

While Americans tend to wear the designs only for weddings, formals and other special occasions, they are suitable for everyday wear -- as Africans have worn them for centuries. McKees Rocks designer Isaiah Dent's custom African-inspired styles have been popular for nearly a decade, and Dierdre Cooper Creations in Manchester turns out stunning African-inspired choir and minister robes and attire for plays, weddings and other affairs.

	Bob Donaldson, Post-Gazette Born in Ghana, Dee Blemahdoo first came to Pittsburgh in 1973, moved to New York City in 1982, and returned to Pittsburgh in 1991. Click photo for larger image.

But Ms. Blemahdoo, with her retail store on busy East Eighth Avenue, is best known. In 2002, she received a Pennsylvania Council on the Arts Fellowship in the folk and traditional arts, the state's highest award for a traditional artist. And last year, eight of her designs that demonstrated the subtle differences in the clothing she creates for her African and American clientele were featured in an exhibit titled "Adapting Africa: African vs. African-Inspired Clothing Styles."

Born into the Ga tribe in Ghana, Ms. Blemahdoo moved to Pittsburgh in 1973, a year after her husband, Lamptey Badoo, arrived to study accounting at Point Park College. Having learned to sew as a child, she studied dressmaking at what is now the Clarissa School of Fashion Design. The family moved to New York City in 1982 so she could gain entry to the industry. She made samples for designers, following their drawings to make prototypes of garments.

The family returned to Pittsburgh in 1991 because her husband didn't want to raise their three children in New York.

"I was glad to come back because our children were growing and I was aware Pittsburgh was a better place to raise children," said Mr. Badoo. "Good hospitals and schools here."

	Bob Donaldson, Post-Gazette The store sells a variety of leather bags (the one in the foreground is $40), as well as African jewelry, art and groceries. Click photo for larger image.

Ms. Blemahdoo wanted to continue designing African clothing, but she wondered if a market existed because she seldom saw Pittsburghers wear African designs. But when she started selling creations out of their North Side home "I was shocked how people really responded," she said.

Soon, business became so brisk that she decided to look into a storefront. She shared a boutique space in Garfield, and in 1993 she moved to an area in a carpet store on Homestead's East Eighth Avenue. Six months later, she moved across the street to her current quarters at 221 E. Eighth Ave.

The store offers African jewelry, art and grocery items such as palm soup and candied yams. But it is best known for the many racks of colorful robes, coats, suits, dresses and headwear. She makes most of the pieces, giving traditional African looks a modern American twist. Prices vary depending upon the fabric, detailing and complexity, but simple print dresses start as low as $25. More elaborate, multi-piece outfits made of authentic fabric with lace and hand embroidered detailing can cost hundreds.

Ms. Blemahdoo prefers to use authentic fabrics, which she buys in New York from suppliers who obtain them from textile mills in Africa, Asia and Europe. In recent years, however, customers increasingly are requesting prints, which tend to be less expensive and have wider variety. Most often, the look of a fabric inspires her decision about what to make from it -- and she aims for variety.

"I like to buy fabric that I haven't seen before, new fabrics," she said.

Yvonne Godbolt of West Homestead has been captivated by her designs since the window displays caught her eye 13 years ago.

"Dee takes great pride in her work, and she does a beautiful job in making her creations," said Ms. Godbolt, nicknamed "Number One" by Ms. Blemahdoo because she was the first customer. "She loves working with the fabrics that she uses. It's not uncommon to walk into her store and see her holding a sketch of a design that someone has made. She creates the outfit from that design."

The construction and popularity of The Waterfront retail complex a few blocks away haven't hurt business at her market place. However, she's seen fewer walk-in customers since repairs began on the nearby Homestead Grays Bridge this year.

But she plans to be around when things return to normal, doing what she loves.

"When I see someone wearing something I make," she said, "then they come back and tell me they got lots of compliments, it makes joy in my heart. It makes me feel something inside. I'm thankful to all my customers for supporting me."

Store hours are 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays. The phone number is 412-461-3551.