All this time, we've entrusted our handbags to professional designers -- for good reason, we figured. Now, a number of Web sites are giving up that responsibility.

Several handbag sites let consumers choose the style, fabric and extra features such as zippers, pockets and strap length -- and sales are growing. Viv Pickle, based in Philadelphia, says total sales are up 16 percent this year over last. At Chicago's 1154 Lill Studio, founded in 1999, online sales have tripled in the past year. They're plugging into an expanding market. Sales of women's handbags reached nearly $8 billion in 2005, a 68 percent rise since 2000, according to the Travel Goods Association.

We wondered how we would fare as a designer: dream bag, or craft project gone wrong? To find out, we ordered five tote bags in bright, spring-friendly fabrics and scrutinized the ordering process for each site. Along with the time involved and style and fabric options, we evaluated whether we could judge the finished bag's look before we handed over our credit-card number. (This was especially important because custom bags can't be returned.) Finally, we handed out the totes to a group of busy women for real-life tryouts.

Our panel loved the bold, red-and-black silk material on the $109 tote we chose from Sojourn Handbags, and the leather straps gave it an upscale feel. "This looks expensive," said a judge. Still, the site's choices were limited, with six fabrics -- and some of those didn't coordinate particularly well with the three leather strap colors offered. (Burgundy and light blue? We're not sure what to wear with that.)

We liked the stylish, rounded top of the $72 Nantucket bag from Anna William. However, once we got our bag, we realized the handle wasn't big enough to pull over the shoulder, and the main pocket didn't fit a whole lot. In general, the site's tote selection was limited, offering two styles that looked more like canvas shoppers -- not our idea of office-appropriate.

The Large Bucket bag, for $60 from Viv Pickle, won several votes for the top choice. It was big enough for all the necessities without being overly bulky, which was a big plus for the petite panelists. The company had the widest range of about 100 patterns. The downside? While the styles and fabrics are all there for browsing online, Viv Pickle's Web site can't process actual orders. Requests may be emailed, but final confirmation and payment have to be done by telephone.

In any case, our testers thought the $88 Southport tote from Oney Designs -- generously laden with nine interior pockets -- looked more polished and professional. The site offered plenty of options, too. This tote came in nearly 40 different fabrics, most with a sophisticated, urban feel, plus four sizes for the strap length, from 22 to 28 inches. (You can add an exterior pouch or interior zippered pocket, though it's an extra $15.) The "Your Workspace" feature shows the selected materials side-by-side for easy comparison -- and the site suggests combinations for the less-than-confident. Another plus: Oney will send up to five swatches for free before you place an order. For the site's ease of use and the bag's designer look, it's our Best Value.

We really started to ponder a second career as handbag designer at 1154 Lill Studio. There were 80 fabric choices in all, both funky and traditional, in textures that ranged from shimmery silk shantung to chunky tweed, and they're all helpfully described online. You can choose from 17 bag styles; we went with the good-sized $125 Pamela bag, with space for a few magazines or work folders, three interior pockets and a magnetic snap closure. The bright Geranium Petals pattern we picked came in a heavy cotton that was sturdy enough for the beach, but still looked sharp enough for the office. It's our Best Overall. Now we just need some custom shoes to match.

STORE/PRICE/PHONE: 1154 Lill Studio Pamela tote $125 773-292-6310 1154lill.com
QUALITY: Best Overall. Site had lots of choices, and rectangular tote was versatile. We chose the Geranium Petals pattern, in a sturdy cotton; inside compartment was in a soft faux suede.
SHIPPING COST/TIME: We paid $8; the bag arrived in 3 1/2 weeks

RETURN POLICY: No returns.
PHONE/WEB EXPERIENCE: Good selection of 17 bag styles ($58 to $150), from structured to casual, and 80 fabrics, with helpful descriptions on weight and texture. Some of the product photos are quite dark.
COMMENT: Ready-made bags available as well. Company is adding a "dynamic customization" feature in June, to allow shoppers to see what each fabric looks like on the bags.

STORE/PRICE/PHONE: Oney Designs Southport tote $88 630-355-5620 oneybags.com
QUALITY: Best Value. Retailer didn't have the biggest selection, but the rectangular Southport tote, with two horizontal fabric panels, looked the most professional. Bag had a zippered closure.
SHIPPING COST/TIME: We paid $10 and our package arrived in three weeks.
RETURN POLICY: No returns.
PHONE/WEB EXPERIENCE: Choose from 13 bag styles ($58 to $118) and 39 mostly traditional fabrics (deep reds and greens rather than eye-popping florals). Site suggests coordinating patterns.
COMMENT: Web site has good photos, and company will send up to five fabric samples free. No choices offered for interior fabric. The company also sells bags through home parties.

STORE/PRICE/PHONE: Viv Pickle Large Bucket bag $60 215-922-5904 vivpickle.com
QUALITY: Compact size was a favorite of our petite testers. However, the no-frills look was deemed average by other panelists. Site did offer nearly 100 fabrics, though.
SHIPPING COST/TIME: Shipping cost $5; the bag arrived in five weeks.
RETURN POLICY: No returns.
PHONE/WEB EXPERIENCE: Disappointing. No descriptions on fabric or online ordering. Company says the phone interaction is necessary because shoppers often need guidance.
COMMENT: Offers 18 bag styles, most rectangular or bucket-shaped. Bags priced a la carte; $60 includes $5 zip closure, $5 interior pocket and $5 "superior" cloth.

STORE/PRICE/PHONE: Anna William Nantucket bag $72 617-547-2662 annawilliam.com
QUALITY: Panel liked the stylish rounded shape and cheery Pink Floral Burst fabric, but bag was fairly small and didn't slip over the shoulder. Tote selection was limited.
SHIPPING COST/TIME: Standard delivery, for $8.95, arrived in three weeks.
RETURN POLICY: No returns.
PHONE/WEB EXPERIENCE: There are 20 bag styles, mostly purse-sized, and eight fabric choices for the exterior. No choices for interior.
COMMENT: Company says a redesign in early June will increase fabric choices to 40, and users will be able to see what each one looks like on a drawing of the bags.

STORE/PRICE/PHONE: Sojourn Handbags Tote $109 773-929-8295 sojournbags.com
QUALITY: Fabric and straps had a luxurious look. However, there aren't many styles (eight) or pattern choices (six exterior, four interior).
SHIPPING COST/TIME: Shipping cost $8.25, which arrived in three weeks.
RETURN POLICY: No returns.
PHONE/WEB EXPERIENCE: Easy; our quickest order. By clicking on the fabric and leather color, you can easily see what the combinations look like. No photos online.
COMMENT: Company, which also sells ready-made bags, says it is redesigning site and increasing fabric choices to 20 this summer.