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You've just spent an hour at the Warhol (Point 1 on the map), and you've had your fill of the self-consciously hip. It's time now to get into the unabashedly Middle American joys of baseball and football.

After exiting the museum, you might check out the Rosa Villa (Point 2) just across General Robinson Street. It's still an old-fashioned neighborhood restaurant, though the neighborhood row houses that once lined the street are gone. The Rosa Villa is a fine place for a short beer if you're thirsty, but it's hardly alone anymore.

Stroll a block down General Robinson toward the setting sun and you're at Federal Street, where bars have been opening left and right since PNC Park (Point 3) opened a year ago. The Outback Steakhouse (Point 4) overlooks the baseball field, but the favorite for North Siders is Atria's (Point 5) and its sidewalk tables. Photos of local ballplayers and musicians deck the walls inside. It's too bad you don't have time for the pot roast.

If you choose to dawdle on Federal Street, though, be sure to look away from the river and north at least once. While a southern glance gives you a striking skyline, this northern peek gives you, well, reason to avert your eyes. The barrier of highway and railway trestles is not pretty but should be pointed out because it separates the North Shore from the residential neighborhoods of the North Side.

About one of every seven city residents lives on the North Side, and not a few will be proud to tell you that this entire side of the river was once the independent city of Allegheny. It was absorbed against its will in 1907 by the larger city on the opposite bank. And Allegheny Center, which you can barely see through those trestles, is a failed mall that has become a successful office park.

The heart of Allegheny City was once there. Andrew Carnegie lived in this neighborhood as a newly arrived teen-ager from Scotland in the 1840s, when Federal Street was not yet much at all. One of Carnegie's first libraries, a massive gray granite building that opened in 1890, is among the handful of historic structures still standing north of the mall.

The history you can touch today is in bronze. The statues of Willie Stargell (Point 6) and Roberto Clemente (Point 7), Pirates greats from the 1960s and 1970s, stand a long toss from each other on Federal Street. (Though it wouldn't be a long toss for "The Great One," Clemente. By the way, you'll find a statue of shortstop Honus Wagner ? (Point 8) on the opposite corner of the ballpark.)

The bridge behind Clemente is his, too. PNC Park has more than 38,000 seats, and half of them are filled each game with fans pouring across the Clemente Bridge. Formerly called the Sixth Street Bridge, it is closed to automobile traffic before and after Pirate games, and likewise for the Steelers games at Heinz Field. That tradition may have put to rest that old Pittsburgh myth that locals won't cross bridges for anything but a paycheck.

Make a right at the Clemente statue and pass through the gate into the ballpark. It's OK. You won't be able to get to the seats, but you won't need a ticket to walk the promenade. That was part of the deal when these stadiums were built largely with public dollars despite considerable public outcry.

A trip across the promenade gives you a glimpse of why the Pirates had the best attendance (more than 2.4 million) in the club's century-plus history when the ballpark opened in 2001.

PNC Park, the site of the 2006 All-Star Game, is already on the short list of the continent's finest ballparks. The grass is real. The dimensions are nostalgically irregular. The exposed steel gives the place some heft. And most seats give fans a panoramic view of the skyline beyond.

The riverside location also allows the place some delicious quirks. A left-handed power hitter could put a baseball in the Allegheny River if he really gets hold of one. And several major league batters have done just that.

Once you've exited the ball park through the gate on PNC Park's west side (Point 9), you're entering Steelers Nation.

The sea of asphalt parking lots to your right is filling with new developments. Two new office building, one of them local headquarters of the DelMonte food corporation, now flank the riverbank on either side of the Ft. Duquesne Bridge. Other plans include a 5,000-seat amphitheater, and perhaps a movie complex with more restaurants and sports bars. For the near future, though, you're looking at the heart of tailgate culture on game days; the Steelers and the University of Pittsburgh Panthers both play football at Heinz Field, and countless kielbasas have disappeared on this stretch since Three Rivers Stadium opened in 1970. (We imploded that in February 2001 to make way for the new stuff.)

Ahead of you is the Korean War Veterans Memorial (Point 10), which includes both a synopsis of that three-year struggle and an homage to those who served and died there. Local veterans of the "Forgotten War" raised the money for the black-marble memorial unveiled in 1999, which includes the names of those Western Pennsylvanians who were among more than 54,000 Americans killed. A Vietnam Veterans Memorial (Point 11) and another to slain police and firefighters are farther downriver on the other side of the Fort Duquesne Bridge.

Just beyond the Korean memorial are the Watersteps (Point 12), a recent and welcome addition to the riverscape, which descends from the parking area to the riverwalk. That walk (Point 13) is part of a trail system that grows in pieces year by year and will soon stretch the 350 miles to Washington, D.C.

Runners, cyclists, walkers and skateboarders can already proceed for miles along the rivers, and the ramp to the Fort Duquesne Bridge means cyclists no longer have to lug their bikes up the stairs. Take the steps (Point 14) if you want to get to The Point.

As you climb those stairs, take a look downriver toward Heinz Field and look at the Gate D (Point 15) pillar that stands about 150 feet from the southeast corner of the stadium. And know that is not Gate D.

But Pittsburghers can be nostalgic about almost anything. (Old local joke: How many Pittsburghers does it take to change a light bulb? Two. One to change the bulb and one to talk about how good the old one was.) That's why the Gate D post from Three Rivers Stadium still stands pointlessly about 150 feet from the main entrance to Heinz Field.

If you have to ask why, you clearly weren't in Pittsburgh when the Steelers won four Super Bowls in the six seasons from 1975 to 1980, or when they secured "one for the thumb" in Super Bowl XL.

As you're crossing the bridge walkway back toward Point State Park, look downriver. Just past Heinz Field and the confluence of the rivers is the Carnegie Science Center (Point 16). There, kids can get wet and throw things while their parents stand by and call it learning. There's also an Omnimax Theater and, across the street, the UPMC Sportsworks exhibit, where anyone can tee off, shoot hoops, climb a rock wall or hang-glide (sort of). Also, moored in the Ohio River beside the science center is the USS Requin, a World War II-era submarine that is open for touring (Point 17).

By the way, speaking of science, if you spit over the side of the bridge into the Allegheny (Point 18), which meets the Monongahela to form the Ohio, which flows into the Mississippi, a small part of you might one day flow to New Orleans.

The walkway slides gently into Point State Park (Point 19), where the tour began this morning. Proceed back through the Portal and bear to the right. When you reach Commonwealth Place, you have completed this section of the tour (Point 20). Look to your right, toward the low rectangular building with the Pittsburgh-Post Gazette sign on the roof line. That's where the next section begins.

	WARHOL / NORTH SHORE		MARKET SQUARE