Martha Rial, Post-Gazette Tendrils of the young snow pea plant lend a subtle pea flavor -- and green color -- to recipes possible only in spring.

By Amy McConnell Schaarsmith, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

In spring, it is said, a young man's fancy turns to thoughts of love. Unless he's a chef, in which case his fancy turns to thoughts of baby vegetables.

Spring is the most creative time for chefs, a time when they want to make the most of all the tender new shoots and fruits that are just beginning to emerge, while also respecting their true flavors, according to Chris Jackson, executive chef at Six Penn Kitchen in the Cultural District.

	Martha Rial, Post-Gazette Pan Roasted Day Boat Scallops are served with Spring Baby Vegetable Ragout and Local Pea Tendrils at Six Penn Kitchen. Click photo for larger image. More information Mung Dynasty, 2200 Mary St., Pittsburgh, Pa. 15203. 412-381-1350 or www.mungdynasty.com. Six Penn Kitchen, 146 Sixth St., Pittsburgh, Pa. 15222. 412-566-7366 or www.sixpennkitchen.com.

"You're dealing with the most delicately flavored vegetables," said Jackson, who worked as executive sous-chef at BIX, a supper club in San Francisco, before taking over at Six Penn. "You really have to utilize the ingredients themselves. You don't want to overwhelm them."

As a result, delicacies such as pea tendrils and patty pan squash have begun to appear on Six Penn's menu -- which changes weekly to keep selections focused as much as possible on ingredients that are fresh and local -- seasoned with only salt, cracked pepper and some fresh herbs to let the vegetables' natural flavors shine through.

Mr. Jackson works with local farmers to select much of the produce himself, and also can order local fruit and vegetables through the FarmSource program operated by Eat 'n Park Hospitality Group, which owns Six Penn as well as Eat 'n Park restaurants and catering services. Through the program, Eat 'n Park works to buy produce -- including milk and meat as well as fruit and vegetables -- from local farmers, with a goal of 20 percent of its total produce purchases in season coming from local sources.

For the pea tendrils, which are the leaves and shoots of young snow pea plants harvested when they reach three or four inches, Jackson works with Mung Dynasty, a 5,000-square-foot indoor sprout farm on the South Side that sells sprouts and greens to the general public as well as to upscale area chefs. The sweet, tender tendrils have long been a favorite in Chinese cooking (where they are called dau miu) and are considered a spring delicacy there, but they're beginning to appear on trendy American menus as well.

	Martha Rial, Post-Gazette At left, a Strawberry Basil Mojito is featured on the spring drink menu. Click photo for larger image.

Mung Dynasty, which sold its first sprouts to the East End Co-Op in 1974, now sells about 40 pounds of the pea shoots alone each week to about 20 Pittsburgh-area chefs. The pea shoots, which can be recut from the same plant every five or six days, have become one of the company's top sellers, according to company manager Jonathan Rhoads.

"They taste fantastic ... the sweetness of the snow pea comes through, but at the same time it's nourishing and crisp," Rhoads said.

In a recipe that began appearing on the restaurant's menu late last week (and that will continue to be offered through the early part of this week), Mr. Jackson layers the tendrils' fresh pea taste throughout a recipe for pan-roasted day boat scallops.

He combines wilted pea tendrils with fresh baby squash and cherry tomatoes as an accompaniment for the scallops, which are placed on small pools of pea tendril coulis.

The tendrils give the sauce a green color that almost glows with vibrancy.

"They're gorgeous," Mr. Jackson said, holding up a single trembling tendril. "These colors just scream, 'Spring!' The color is just outrageous."

PAN-ROASTED DAY BOAT SEA SCALLOPS WITH SPRING BABY VEGETABLE RAGOUT AND LOCAL PEA TENDRILS, GARNISHED WITH PEA TENDRIL COULIS AND HERB-INFUSED BASIL OIL

PG TESTED

• 4 U-10 sea scallops (U-10 represents the size of the scallop, and how many can be found in one pound)
  
• Baby vegetables (baby brussels sprouts, zucchini and squash such as patty pan, sunburst, Peter Pan, sun drops, etc.)
  
• 1/2 pound clam shell container of pea tendrils
  
• Tomatoes (cherry, pear, grape, tear drops or diced heirloom varieties)
  
• Salt and fresh cracked pepper
  
• 1 bunch basil leaves
  
• 1 cup chicken or vegetable stock (approximately)
  
• 2 tablespoons butter
  
• 1 cup neutral-flavored oil such as grape seed, canola, vegetable oil or light olive oil

Pick tough muscle from side of sea scallops. Clean baby vegetables and cut baby squash in half or quarters if larger.

In a large pot of boiling salted water, blanch the baby vegetables for approximately 1 1/2 minutes each if doing in batches. Dunk them in ice water after the hot water to stop the cooking process. Blanch basil, except for a few nice leaves for garnish, for 30 seconds.

Cut cherry tomatoes in half or dice larger tomato. Chiffonade about 6 large blanched basil leaves (place in a stack, roll into a cylinder and cut several times with sharp knife across width of roll).

Divide the pea tendrils, with about 1/4 of them for the saute and remaining 3/4 for the coulis. Warm the chicken stock in a sauce pan. Place the pea tendrils, pinch of salt and pepper and 2 tablespoons butter in a blender.

Pour chicken stock over the mixture in the blender and with the lid on securely, slowly bring the motor to a high speed, thoroughly pureeing the mixture. Pass through a fine mesh strainer if available, not completely necessary. Rinse blender, place remaining blanched basil leaves in blender and pour 1/2 cup of oil over leaves and blend on high about 2 minutes. Pass mixture through fine mesh strainer if available, not completely necessary.

In a frying pan or saute pan, heat a tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat and season scallops with salt and pepper. When oil starts to reach the smoking point, place scallops in pan flat side down, being careful not to spatter oil. Maintaining a medium-high heat, let cook for about 2 minutes (you can add 1 tablespoon butter to the pan at this point), then place pan in a pre-heated 400-degree oven for about 2 to 3 more minutes, until the scallops begin to firm up to the touch.

Meanwhile, in a saute pan with 1 tablespoon oil over medium to high heat, saute baby vegetables for 1 to 2 minutes, add the cherry tomatoes, pea tendrils, basil chiffonade, salt and pepper. Saute for another 1 to 2 minutes, just wilting the pea tendrils lightly to maintain all of the freshness in the baby vegetables and pea tendrils.

On a plate, place the sauteed vegetables in a small pile and then heat a 1/2 cup of the pea tendril coulis in a saucepan until it just begins to simmer. Add about a tablespoon of chicken or vegetable stock to pan and 1 tablespoon of butter and swirl over heat, not boiling, to brighten and warm sauce. Season with salt and pepper.

Place a small amount of sauce of either side of the sauteed baby vegetables and a scallop on top of each pool of sauce. Drizzle basil oil around edges and garnish with reserved basil leaf tops.

Serves 2.