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The scents of the season are mostly fruity florals
Thursday, April 20, 2006

When flowers begin blooming, so does the crop of spring and summer fragrances. There seems to be an emphasis this year on fruity floral perfumes, many of which are lighter or brighter versions of classic scents:

DKNY via AP
There are men's and women's versions of DKNY's new scent called Red Delicious.
Click photo for larger image.

For men

Women aren't the only ones who can try a spruced-up scent for spring. There are a few new -- or at least revamped -- men's scents hitting store shelves:

Terre D'Hermes by Hermes. This is described as a woody-vegetal-mineral that's supposed to emulate the complexity of the earth. There are notes of benzoin, flint, grapefruit, pepper, vetiver, geranium leaves and cedar.

Very Cool by Tommy Bahama. Both a men's and a women's fragrance strive to capture the complementary casualness of an island lifestyle and the exhilaration of blue ocean water. The men's scent features mint mojito, ginger root and bergamot accords for a zesty top, pepper and nutmeg at the heart and bleached wood and vetiver for the base. Very Cool for Women is a citrus floral fragrance, including notes of tangerine, clementine, cactus flower, hibiscus, cassis, dewy greens, musks, woods and nectarine.

Jaipur Homme Fraicheur by Boucheron and Boucheron Pour Homme Fraicheur. Jaipur Homme is an oriental fragrance, a rare thing in the men's department. It uses cool spices, nutmeg and bergamot as the first notes, patchouli at the heart and a base of cashmere wood. Boucheron is woodier with accords of verbena, bergamot, jasmine, patchouli and cedar.


Very Irresistible Givenchy Bulgarian Rose 2005 Harvest and Organza Indian Jasmine 2005 Harvest, also by Givenchy, both take advantage of exceptional crops of flowers from a particular year's harvest. The company compares the fragrances to a fine vintage champagne: They're good in any incarnation, but when all the elements come together to produce an excellent version, it should be highlighted by noting the year and location of the crop.

DKNY Red Delicious. There's an eau de parfum for women, with an opening accord of champagne leading to a cocktail of lychee, raspberry, crisp apple, violet, vanilla and amber notes, and a men's eau de toilette, which features cognac, rum, saffron flower, bergamot and mandarin, coffee, apple liqueur, vanilla vodka, sandalwood, moss and patchouli, among others.

Island Michael Kors Fiji. Kors acknowledges he hasn't visited the Fiji islands -- yet -- but he's encouraged and inspired by the flowers he'd find there. Though based on the original Island Michael Kors scent, the perfume is infused with Fijian tiare flower.

Oscar Bamboo and Oscar Island Flowers by Oscar de la Renta. Bamboo features lime, cardamom and green tea in its top, bamboo and water lily at the heart and vetiver and cedar for the base. Island Flowers opens with orange, mandarin and dewdrops, has middle notes of hibiscus flower and freesia and closes with vanilla, musk and cedar.

Eternity Summer by Calvin Klein. The top of this fragrance is fig and pomelo, a grapefruitlike fruit, with a heart of white florals and a drydown that blends sandalwood, sage and musk.

Marc Jacobs Splash. Designer Jacobs wanted to bottle his favorite summer memories, so he focused on the fragrances of freshly cut grass, a cool summer rain and a perfect white cotton T-shirt. The result is a series of three individual fragrances.

Missoni. The fragrance mimics the signature colors of the Italian fashion brand. Yellow is created with bergamot, nespolo, a small juicy fruit known as a loquat, and magnolia petals; pink with peonies and rose; orange with mandarin, bitter orange and kaki, an Italian-grown persimmon; and brown with amber and gianduia, a hazelnut chocolate.

Roberto Cavalli Serpentine. This perfume is build around the mango flower, which, according to Brazilian legend, attracts the serpent with its aphrodisiac nectar. Other notes include the tiare flower and amber.

Baby Doll Lucky Game by Yves Saint Laurent. The essences of four-leaf clovers, lily of the valley and black currant have been added to Baby Doll's traditional notes of grapefruit, rhubarb, rose, grenadine, white peach, musk and cedar.

Salvatore Ferragamo's Incanto Charms. The fragrance aims to be exotic and chic, yet flirty and feminine with its top notes of passion fruit and honeysuckle, middle notes of jasmine and rose, and base notes of amyris wood and musk.

Pure White Linen by Estee Lauder. This is an update to 1978's White Linen, one of the late Estee Lauder's personal favorites, making it more whimsical and fruity. The classic crisp green notes along with rose and wood have been maintained.

Opium Fleur Imperiale Eau D'Orient. The seasonal interpretation of Opium concentrates on "the imperial flower" from China's Forbidden City. It features accords of orange, apricot blossom, jasmine, carnation, patchouli, myrrh and osmanthus.

Songes by Annick Goutal. It's a combination of four absolute essences: ylang-ylang, jasmine, vanilla and frangipani, a subtle white flower.

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada's Corazon, Flor and Agua. Three fragrances that aim to capture spring. Corazon has a core bouquet of rose and magnolia; Flor has green and fruity top notes with a big floral heart; and Agua's middle notes are daffodil, lily of the valley, jasmine and sweet berry.

Jo Malone's Nectarine Blossom and Honey. Nectars of peach, plum and black currant are blended with acacia honey to add warmth. This is an update to a 20-year-old peach fragrance formula.

Acqua di Parma's Fico di Amalfi. Blended in the "Mediterranean spirit," this fragrance mixes citrus top notes with a heart of fig, pink pepper and jasmine. The drydown is fig wood blended with musk and cedar.

L'Eau d'Issey Summer Fragrances by Issey Miyake. Mint is added to the classic accords of rosewater, peony and lily of the valley in the women's scent, while the men's features coriander, nutmeg, saffron and musk.

L'Occitane Green Tea with Jasmine Eau de Toilette. A refreshing summer scent of green tea and jasmine with top notes that include orange and cardamom, and a base of thyme and cedar.

Jean Patou Paris Sira des Indes. The inspiration is the Indian red champaca tree, which is known for its bright, honey-orange blossoms with a sweet fragrance. The tree and its flowers are considered a symbol of love and legend within the Indian culture.

Rose Angel by Thierry Mugler. Calling itself a floral-oriental-woody fragrance, it covers all the bases with notes of citrus, patchouli and rose.

Crabtree & Evelyn's Nadira. Inspired by French Morocco and its aromatic herbs, flowers and spice markets. The blend includes rose, jasmine and gardenia, apricot, nectarine, clove, amber and musk.

Trouble Eau Legere by Boucheron. Bergamot and lotus flower heighten the fresh notes found in the original Trouble, and amber and vanilla add depth.

First published on April 20, 2006 at 12:00 am
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