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Munch goes to Cambod-ican Kitchen
Thursday, April 13, 2006

You there! Yes, you -- Miss Twenty-something Associate Sales Rep with the Chanel sunglasses and Prada bag. You're hot stuff now, but it was only a few years ago when you rolled 12 deep on the South Side with a pack of girls -- all with matching Rachel Green haircuts and tight black "sorority" pants -- grinding on the dance floor at Jimmy D's to a Wu Tang remix. You needed nourishment after last call, so you got to know the McSwiggens.

And you! -- Mr. Junior Investment Banker. Now your suit says Abboud and the shoes are Kenneth Cole Reaction, but circa Y2K you were a regular Steven Stiffler meathead with your Kordell jersey and shell-toe Adidas that had a splotch on them after your boy "Sully" had a bad reaction to his fourth consecutive Mind Eraser at Blue Lou's. You needed something substantial to steel yourself for the morning hangover to come, so you got to know the McSwiggens, too.

Now Munch isn't passing judgment, you see, because Munch was right there with you in the late South Side nights of the 1990s and early '00s -- hungry and half-in-the-bag -- and by that Munch isn't referring to the choice of head wear. And Munch also got to know the McSwiggens.

To refresh: From 1993 to 2003, the McSwiggens -- Dan and his wife, Moeun -- ran the little stand next to the vacant building that would become Nakama, dishing out chicken kabobs to late-night Carson Street revelers. When the century-old building was sold for redevelopment in 2003, the McSwiggens and their stand were given the boot, much to the dismay of notorious barflies such as yours truly.

Time passes. The neighborhood changes. People grow up. The Jimmy D's girls wear Jimmy Choo and drink Cosmos at Halo, and the frat boys have graduated from Jager Bombs to running their credit limit into the ground on Grey Goose martinis. Even Munch got a job.

So Munch nearly shed a tear for nights of drunken munchies gone by upon learning that the McSwiggens' were back in business as of January. They've moved indoors, reopening their stand as the Cambod-ican Kitchen on Carson Street, just across 17th Street from where the old place used to be.

And Munch is pleased to report that the food is better than it was before, including a full menu that doesn't have to be scarfed down in the back of a taxicab or on a stumble down Carson. Located in a corner building that was once home to Roly Poly and Taco Loco, the Cambod-ican Kitchen is a terrific little ethnic joint with a Far Eastern flavor to the modest decor.

Munch and College Roommate Of Munch (CROM), who years back made myriad wee-hours trips to the McSwiggens' stand, went to the Cambod-ican Kitchen at the previously unthinkably early hour of 9 p.m. on a recent weekend.

The menu has a decent array of appetizers, including several kinds of spring and egg rolls, as well as wontons and wings. Of course, for nostalgia sake, Munch and CROM had an order of grilled Shish Kabobs ($3) for an appetizer.

The grilled meat on a stick was as tasty as ever, though it felt odd to start the night with the Cambodi-can's signature item rather than ending the night with it.

After considering the Basil Chicken ($5.95) and the Beef & Broccoli Stir Fry ($6.95), CROM settled on the Cambod-ican Fried Noodles ($6.95). CROM was pleased with the portion of fried lo mein noodles mixed with a liberal amount of snow peas, water chestnuts, broccoli, carrots and mushrooms. Chicken, beef or pork can be added for a buck, shrimp for $2.

Munch devoured the Curried Vegetable Bowl ($5.95), a mix of fresh broccoli, green peppers, onions, carrots and snow peas in a tangy, hot curry sauce, served with rice. You can add tofu for a buck, or do as Munch did and add shrimp for $2.

We both washed down our meals with an Iced "Moon" Tea ($1.75) -- a Thai tea mixed with milk for a sweet, creamy finish. Munch and CROM thought about dessert -- Cambod-ican offers three ice cream pies ($3.50 each) that were hard to pass up.

But instead we parted ways, and Munch strolled back down Carson Street, taking in the amusing spectacle of young and the restless club kids and bar-hoppers well on their way to a night of tingly buzzes.

Perhaps they, too, will get to know the McSwiggens -- some time around 2:01 a.m.

The Cambod-ican Kitchen is located at 1701 E. Carson St., South Side Flats. Call 412-381-6199 or log on to www.cambodicankitchen.com.

First published on April 13, 2006 at 12:00 am