Tony Tye, Post-Gazette Pinchas Guenniche holds a plate of Pargiot (Chicken) Shish Kabob at Pinati Mediterranean Grill. Click photo for larger image. From the top of Squirrel Hill to the bottom, here is what else you will find on a stroll down Murray Avenue. A trip down Murray

In the early days of Squirrel Hill, Murray Avenue was a simple farm path. In the pre-pioneer era it was an American Indian trail leading from the Monongahela River to the highest elevation in the region. It was the local indigenous tribes who gave the name "Squirrel Hill" to this area. At the spot that today is the intersection of Murray and Forbes avenues, there was a giant elm that became the gathering place where farmers met to discuss such burning political questions as the Whiskey Rebellion or the Revolutionary War. These early settlers were of English and Scottish descent.

The first wave of Jewish immigration to Pittsburgh was in the 1840s. They settled in the Hill District or in Old Allegheny City on the North Side. It wasn't until 1930 that Squirrel Hill became the center of the Jewish community. In 1937, a stroll down Murray Avenue would have passed 26 food emporiums: butchers, bakers and greengrocers. There were 22 hair-cutting and styling establishments and 18 cleaners and tailors along with numerous drug stores, a dime store, several gas stations, a florist and a hardware store. These were Jewish-owned businesses for the most part.

Squirrel Hill gave refuge to Holocaust survivors after World War II and, from 1970, to Jews from the former Soviet Union. In the past decade it has attracted many immigrants from Asia, and in the process, Murray Avenue has become the face of a rich modern-day multicultural mixture. According to the 2000 census, the foreign-born population of Squirrel Hill hails from 60 countries. Of the newest immigrants, 50 percent are from Russia, India, China, Ukraine, Korea and Japan.

Murray Avenue has been a vibrant commercial artery from the beginning of Squirrel Hill's development. After numerous transformations, food remains the central focus, but today's Murray Avenue has a decidedly more international flavor. Mexican, French, Italian, Japanese, Indian, Middle Eastern, Thai, Chinese, Philippine, Ukrainian and North African restaurants have joined the Kosher-style delis and the pizza parlors of the past to give a new and exciting profile to Pittsburgh's dining possibilities.

RESTAURANT ALEXANDER

Entering the long, narrow and windowless dining room of this new addition to the Squirrel Hill scene, one feels almost transported to St. Petersburg in the days of the czar. A giant chandelier of Swarovski crystal and six elaborate crystal wall sconces provide light and add an elegant touch to the interior. This light, bouncing off peach-colored walls, gives a youthful glow to diners seated below. White-clothed tables fan out from the entrance to meet a dance floor at the far end. On weeknights there is recorded dance music, but on weekends two musicians play popular Ukrainian tunes suitable for dancing, and this floor becomes the center of the Pittsburgh Russian community.

		Restaurant Alexander 5840 Forward Ave. Squirrel Hill 412-421-3370 Hours: Dinner Tuesdays-Thursdays 6-10 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays 7 p.m.-1 a.m.; Sundays 5 p.m.-midnight. Basics: Russian and Ukrainian food served in attractive surroundings to a primarily Eastern European crowd. Ballroom dancing on weekends. Prices: Appetizers $4.50-$7.50; entrees $5.50-$27; desserts $2.75-$7. Summary: No smoking; major credit cards accepted, parking on street. BYOB, no corkage fee.

This is a family affair. The Ukrainian owners and their extended family members handle food preparation and service. The cuisine is Russian, which means there are lots of beets and cabbage dishes on the menu. Beet soup ($4.50) comes in two versions. There is the traditional borscht, a hot beef broth with beets and cabbage topped with a dollop of sour cream, or a cold and creamy beet and broth combination. Cold appetizers include a number of options not found in other local restaurants. Grenki ($4) is smoked fish served on thin slices of toasted white bread with sliced tomato and the most unusual (and delicious) pickled cucumber I ever tasted. Ukrainian Salad ($5) is an equally exotic taste combination. It consists of chopped bits of chewy beef, beets, cabbage and potatoes dressed in mayonnaise. There is Baltic Herring ($5.50) served with pickled vegetables and brown bread.

The entree menu covers a wide variety of Russian regional cuisines. Blini, the Russian crepe made from buckwheat flour, can be stuffed with beef, salmon caviar, creamed mushrooms, cheese or bananas. The latter are sweet and meant to be a dessert item. All are $7. A plate of Vareniki, the Ukrainian version of pirogi, is $5.50. There are stuffed cabbage rolls, stuffed zucchini, tomato or eggplant and grilled mushrooms, topped with cheese and a creamy sauce for vegetarians. There is roast pork loin, beef stew or shish kabob. Although all the ingredients are familiar, the combinations are unusual, and the result is a panorama of new taste sensations for anyone not yet acquainted with Russian cuisine.

Russian cakes ($3.50) are rather sweet and a bit heavy for my taste. I suggest trying the Banana Blini instead. The fruit is wrapped in a pancake, fried and topped with chocolate sauce.

The opportunity to taste a wide variety of authentic Russian specialities makes Alexander a unique dining venue. If you don't want to hear the crashing of bowling balls from the lanes located on the second floor of this building, I suggest you go after 8 p.m., when the music begins and helps to drown out the occasional bang.

PINATI MEDITERRANEAN GRILL

Pinati is a strict kosher restaurant with a certified Mashgiach on the premises. The menu springs from the Sephardic Jewish tribes, who came from Spain and North Africa. The dining room is bright and cheerful. Wide windows fronting Murray Avenue provide lots of light and a front seat for watching the parade of interesting faces passing on the sidewalk outside. In nice weather, the windows can be opened, making the front row of tables feel like sidewalk dining. Glass lanterns, tiled accessories and warm paint colors add a further Mediterranean touch. Table linens, too, are in sunny earth tones. Although the napkins are paper, they are thick and heavy. Servers are young and friendly. Many tables are occupied by families with children.

		Pinati Mediterranean Grill 2100 Murray Ave. 412-422-0404 Hours: Sundays-Thursdays 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Fridays 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; closed Saturdays. Basics: Family-friendly, casual spot serving Kosher food from Spain and North Africa. Good spot for vegetarians. Prices: Appetizers $5-$8; entrees $6.50-$10.50; desserts $3-$6. Summary: No smoking; major credit cards accepted. Parking on street or Squirrel Hill lots with meters.

At the moment there is one menu that is served for both lunch and dinner, but plans for a separate dinner menu are hatching and should be complete before summer.

The simple menu lists appetizers, soups and sandwiches. Juddah the chef is Israeli. He has brought his magic spice kit with him from Jerusalem. His appetizers include Yaprach (stuffed grape leaves), Moroccan Cigars (deep-fried filo pastry filled with spicy potato filling) and Foul Moudamas (fava beans mixed with garlic, lemon, olive oil and parsley and served on hummus). This could be considered the national dish of Egypt. There is a Vegetarian Combo Platter of hummus, babaganoush, yaprach, Moroccan Cigars and falafel for $12.95. It serves three to four diners. Chickpeas, garlic and tahini figure heavily in many of these appetizers. The falafel balls are especially crunchy and perfectly spiced. The babaganush (char-grilled eggplant) has just the right amount of smoky, charcoal flavor.

Sandwiches are, in fact, meals. Meats or poultry are marinated in exotic spices, grilled and served on pita or laffa bread (lavosh) with sides of hummus, Israeli Salad (a combination of chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, green peppers and cabbage), wilted cabbage salad, pickles and tahina sauce. Most are $8.50 to $10.50.

In keeping with the kosher rules, there are no dairy products used at Pinati. This does not mean that there are no creamy desserts. In fact, the options that range from Raspberry Mousse Cake to Chocolate Cream Pie to Ebony Ivory Cheesecake, but my personal favorite is Chocolate Souffle, served hot with chocolate syrup ($3.75). You are invited to bring wine to Pinati, but it must be certified kosher. There is a $2 per person corkage fee.

SWEET BASIL AND LA FILIPINIANA

This is possibly the only restaurant in America that combines Thai and Philippine cuisines under one roof. The mother restaurant is on Butler Street in Lawrenceville. It was originally a Philippine restaurant that was sold to a Thai family. The new owners decided to keep the original menu while adding Thai specialties to it. The interior of the Squirrel Hill branch has been given a colorful palette of mandarin red and curry yellow. Thai art and artifacts decorate the walls. Well-spaced tables line both walls of the long and narrow dining room.

Tony Tye, Post-Gazette Head chef and owner Tony Tongdee with, left, Hawaiian Spicy Shrimp and, right, Seared Sea Scallops with Panang Curry Sauce, at Sweet Basil & La Filipiniana. Click photo for larger image. Sweet Basil and La Filipiniana 2022 Murray Ave. 412-422-8950 www.mysweetbasil.com Hours: Tuesdays-Fridays, lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., dinner 5-10 p.m.; Saturdays and Sundays noon-10 p.m. Basics: Nicely decorated interior with a welcoming staff and attentive service. Low noise level for easy conversation. BYOB, no corkage. Prices: Appetizers $2.95-$5.95; entrees $9.95-$14.95; desserts $2.95-$5.95. Summary: No smoking, MasterCard and Visa, parking on street with meters.

The menu starts with six soups ($2.95-$3.95). Thai soups with lemongrass and coconut milk with chicken or shrimp are unlike other Asian soups. Spiced with galangal, a member of the ginger family, they are a great way to begin the meal. Thai Fresh Roll ($4.95) is another refreshing choice. A cool, moist, rice-paper wrapper is rolled around a mixture of raw vegetables, skinny noodles, tofu and fresh mint and basil leaves. This is served with a peanut dipping sauce.

Entrees range from stir-fries to curries to noodle dishes. I found the Pad Thai ($11.95) very dry, with bland noodles and meat and bean sprouts that tasted of peanuts but little else. I preferred the Red Curry ($10.95), which was hot and spicy with a sweet, coconut milk edge. Thai Beef Salad ($6.95) is another favorite. Thin slices of charbroiled beef in a hot chili and lime sauce top a serving of spring greens.

I haven't yet ventured to the Filipino cuisine on the back side of the menu. When I return, I will order the Taste of Filipiniana ($14.95). This is an opportunity to taste a variety of the most popular entrees on the Filipino menu. It includes soup, rice, chicken adobo, beef caldereta (the national dishes of the Philippines), shrimp curry and dessert and ginger tea.

The lemongrass or ginger tea ($2) is a perfect beverage for all the dishes served at Sweet Basil, but if you prefer an alcoholic drink you are welcome to provide it. The restaurant is BYOB, and there is no corkage fee. Desserts can be simple (Flan, $2.95) or elaborate (Sticky Rice Thai Custard, $5.95) or safe (Homemade Coconut Ice Cream, $4.95).

PACIFIC RING

The newest Asian restaurant on Murray follows the latest trend of combining the best of all the cuisines in the Pacific region. Pacific Ring's owner/chefs are Taiwanese who have worked in different Asian countries and combined the skills and tastes of many kitchens to create this menu.

		Pacific Ring 1900 Murray Ave. 412-421-3338 www.pacificringpittsburgh.com Hours: Mondays-Thursdays 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sundays noon-10 p.m. Basics: An unusual menu of Chinese and Pacific rim foods plus a full sushi bar. Pleasant service and handsome surroundings. Prices: Appetizers $1.50-$10; entrees $6-$24; desserts $4.50-$6.BYOB, no corkage. Basics: No smoking, major credit cards, parking on street with meters.

The restaurant is essentially Chinese and Japanese with a few Korean, Thai and Hawaiian twists. The menu is extensive. In addition to a full sushi bar there are 83 items. Hot and Sour Soup ($1.50) is one of my favorite Chinese tastes. Chock-full of mushrooms, scrambled egg and bamboo shoots, the rich broth is spiked with Chinese black vinegar to give it the sour edge. This was so good that my dining partners who tasted it ended up ordering their own bowls.

Korean Pot Stickers ($4.50) were equally satisfying. Four plump dumplings stuffed with meat and water chestnuts were bursting with juicy flavor. Osaka Salmon ($13) is definitely a fusion of Japanese and Chinese techniques. The salmon is treated to a Teriyaki glaze and is served on a bed of fried spinach that resembled Chinese fried sea weed. Fresh spinach leaves are deep fried until crackling-crisp and seasoned with toasted sesame seeds. The result is a totally new texture experience for spinach.

This kitchen seems to have an affinity for playing with textures and flavors and transforming the familiar into an adventurous excursion. Although the sushi chef is Chinese, he studied for 10 years in California under a Japanese sushi master. The dining room is comfortable and attractive. The tables are dressed in white linen and silk flowers. Water gurgles from a fountain, and handsome screens divide the room into cozy sections.

OTHER FLAVORS

Opening soon on Murray is Silk Elephant, a Thai tapas and wine bar. Other unusual possibilities are Susheli, a kosher sushi bar. There are grocery stores selling food products from Eastern Europe, Greece or Turkey. Among the many Asian take-out kitchens is one that is owned by a Burmese family and prepares Burmese specialties. There is an Indian take-out shop that serves amazingly delicious vegan curries. There are cafes with outdoor seating and free broadband and European-style cafes with overstuffed furniture that offer newspapers along with kosher snacks. At Te Cafe, one can sample more than 60 different teas and purchase interesting accessories. There is pizza with thick crust or thin, and not one of them comes from a chain.

Indeed, one of the most amazing aspects of this rich commercial blend is that every enterprise on Murray Avenue is locally owned and operated. What was once a small settlement of English and Scottish farmers is today a bustling blend of entrepreneurs from all corners of the world.