Working for a chef who is recognized as a leader in his/her profession is a time-honored way for young chefs to perfect their culinary skills. This was exactly how three young men who worked with Toni Pais in his Baum Vivant kitchen in Shadyside came to be seen as "must have" talent for the restaurant at Sunnyledge Boutique Hotel.

Tony Tye, Post-Gazette Chef de cuisine Brian Molish shows off Sweet Soya Caramelized Ahi Tuna, front, and Grilled Colorado Lamb Lollipops at the Opus Restaurant in the Renaissance Hotel, Downtown. Click photo for larger image. Sunnyledge Fifth and Wilkins avenues, Shadyside 412-683-5014 Basics: Breakfast, lunch and dinner Tuesdays-Saturdays, brunch Sundays. In good weather, there is dining on the terrace overlooking Millionaire Row. Free valet parking. Smoking is permitted in the lounge. Accessible. Major credit cards accepted. Reservations advisable. Opus Renaissance Pittsburgh Hotel, 107 Sixth St., Downtown 412-992-2005 Basics: Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. The kitchen closes at 10 p.m. on weeknights and 11 p.m. on weekends. Free valet parking with ticket validated by waiter. No smoking. Accessible. Major credit cards. Reservations advisable.

Baum Vivant closed Jan. 1, leaving chefs Shawn Carlson, Mike Knoll and Eason Granberg unemployed ... but not for long. Being alumni of a Toni Pais kitchen meant their cell phones immediately began to ring. Within days, the three had agreed to move their operations to Sunnyledge. They have fashioned an entirely new menu for the dining rooms of the Historic Landmark hotel.

This Victorian mansion, built as a residence in 1886, was designed by the venerable architectural firm of Longfellow, Alden and Harlow, which was also the architect of the Duquesne Club. The oak-paneled library and the salon of the mansion make handsome and comfortable dining rooms. Tables are covered in crisp white cloths and set with antique tableware. An imposing oil portrait of the original owner presides over the salon room.

The talented trio of chefs have settled into their new kitchen. One look at the new menu they have created convinced me that their presence has elevated the dining experience at Sunnyledge. From the appetizer menu I was especially happy with House-Made Duck Sausage ($9). Perfectly seasoned, it is served with shaved parsnips and apples in a subtle curry cream. Parsnips are an especially sweet and tender member of the carrot family. Combining them with tart apples, as the chef has done here, brings a new dimension to all of the flavors in this dish.

Braised Beef Ribs ($9) is an appetizer that can substitute as a meal for a delicate appetite. The tender and flavorful ribs are sauced with a roasted red pepper and tomato glaze and served with acorn squash ravioli. The pasta is made by Fede in New Kensington using original stuffings supplied by local chefs. Carlson uses the Fede pasta with a different stuffing on one of his entree creations.

An always reliable test of any kitchen is its soup. Sunnyledge scored high marks for the soup du jour ($7), which was a rich and delicious Billi Bi. This cream of mussel soup is seasoned with saffron and enriched with egg yolk, which makes each spoonful feel like satin in the mouth.

Beef Wellington ($29) is a modern rendition of the classic filet and foie gras en croute. Carlson places the grilled beef and sauteed goose liver between two layers of puff pastry. Pan-seared Salmon Fillet ($25) is served with an unusual puree of caramelized fennel and candied lemon. Seared Sea Scallops ($25) are sauced with grapefruit juice and served with bok choy. Grilled Quail ($22) swims in a pear-ginger reduction.

What the chef has named Cassoulet ($17) is in fact a sort of culinary joke. Classic cassoulet, or white bean stew from the south of France, is made with duck and sausage and beans. Sunnyledge Cassoulet is tilapia fillet in a cornmeal crust with steamed clams and Fede ravioli stuffed with white beans and sausage!

The only strident chord on this innovative menu is Langoustines ($19) with squid ink black pasta. The pasta is bland and the crayfish garnish is tired. And I would love to trade the sweet, frozen dough bread served here for some proper artesanal breads that the cuisine merits.

Desserts are equally interesting. Clementine Tart ($8) is a variation on a classic French lemon tart made with butter, eggs and citrus juice. A serving consists of two miniature tarts, making this a perfect dessert to share with a dining partner. There is also Warm Chocolate Sponge Cake ($8) sauced with vanilla creme anglaise or apple baked in dark rum ($8) with house-made vanilla ice cream.

House wine is Liberty School, and a 6-ounce pour is $8. The wine list has a few bottles less than $40. Markups are hefty.

OPUS

Another venerable dining spot that has changed executive chefs in the past few months is Opus in the Renaissance Pittsburgh Hotel, Downtown. Opus, too, is housed in a Historic Landmark building, built in 1906. To get to the restaurant, one passes through the white marble lobby surmounted by rich mosaic ceilings and a leaded glass dome, 30 feet in diameter. The restaurant is a haven of serenity and beauty. Paneled in exotic African sapele wood, the room is dissected with upholstered banquettes that serve as privacy barriers. Murals depicting antique musical instruments provide subtle color and interest. In the heart of the Cultural District, Opus is a wonderful pre- or post-theater or concert dinner choice.

Rick Vogt, the new executive chef, has brought some Southwestern influence to the new menu. One of those treats from the appetizer menu is Buffalo Carpaccio ($8). Six ultra-thin slices of buffalo tenderloin are surrounded by dollops of pale green poblano pepper aioli and topped with two long thin crostini rubbed with roasted garlic. I found the mild heat of the poblano a perfect complement to the raw meat. Poblanos are the same chilis the Mexicans stuff with cheese and dip in an egg batter before frying to make Chili relleno.

Pan Seared Scallops ($10) might end up on my list of favorite dishes of 2006. Five giant scallops are served with a creamy polenta seasoned with saffron and topped with sun-dried dates. The dates are also used to make a demi-glaze that sauces the scallops. This exotic and slightly sweet flavor transforms the mollusks, making them unlike any scallops you have tasted.

Opus invites diners to compose a meal by choosing an entree and then selecting a starch and a vegetable. My meal was an 8-ounce Grilled Filet Mignon ($24) with a red wine demi-glaze paired with saffron risotto and grilled asparagus. Pan-seared Seabass ($19) is sauced with caper cream. My dinner partner chose Pan-Seared Shrimp and Prince Edward Island Mussels ($19) over pasta in vodka and caper cream sauce. His shrimp were two jumbo black tigers about the size of small lobster tails, and there were 15 mussels surrounding the pasta. All of the food was beautifully presented on white plates of various shapes; square, round and rectangular. The bread basket had baguettes and an amazing whole wheat bread with dried fruits and walnuts.

Because this is a hotel, the dinner menu also includes salads, sandwiches and vegetarian entrees.

Dessert options include a luscious Chocolate Mousse Cake ($6). The chocolate genoise cake layered with mousse sits on a pool of pomegranate coulis. The tart and acidic pomegranate is a welcome counterpoint to the sweet and creamy mousse. Kahlua Flan ($5.50) is a marvel of baked custard with caramelized sugar topped with a layer of chocolate ganache and doused with a jigger of Kahlua coffee liqueur. Talk about sinful! But if sweet is not your thing, go for a Cheese Plate ($7). It is rare in Pittsburgh to find a restaurant that serves fine cheeses. This plate has an aged cheddar, a triple cream and a parmigiano. Also on the plate is bittersweet chocolate and spiced macadamia nuts.

Wines by the glass possibilities are numerous and change often. You can order Canyon Crest French Merlot for $5 or Hanna Proprietor Grown, Alexander Valley 2001 for $17. Bottle prices begin at $25 for a Macon Villages from France. In the hotel lobby is Pittsburgh's only wine bar, Prelude. Phil Real, your host at the wine bar, can steer you to some amazing, little known wines while walking you through the tasting. It is an experience no serious wine-lover should miss.