When you think of the great cheese-producing countries of the world, Ireland might not be on your list. But if you think of the lush, green, rolling hills of that Emerald Isle, it shouldn't be a surprise to discover that Ireland has a flourishing production of farm-made cheeses.

	Annie O'Neill, Post-Gazette Irish cheese selection from Whole Foods includes Kerrygold cheeses, Neal's Yard Cashel Blue, Ardrahan farmhouse and Cahill Farms Irish Whiskey Cheese. Click photo for larger image.

Cheese began as a way of preserving soured and curdled milk by introducing salt. The earliest archaeological evidence appears on murals inside Egyptian tombs dating back to 2300 B.C. From that time forward, most cultures have used the cheese-making process to preserve milk products.

The majority of Irish artisanal cheeses are made from cow's milk; some are pasteurized and others are not. With a glass of Irish ale or stout, these cheeses will round out your St. Patrick's Day celebration tomorrow. The following Irish cheeses are available at Whole Foods Market in East Liberty and at other Pittsburgh grocers with large cheese specialty counters:

Kerrygold Dubliner Vintage Irish Cheese is a cheddar-type cheese that is aged for 12 months. It has a complex character, a nutty undertone and a lightly sweet aftertaste. The price is $8.99 per pound.

Kerrygold Vintage Irish Cheddar is a firm-textured cheddar that has been aged for two years. The rich flavor has hints of Parmigiano-Reggiano sharpness. It is $11.99 per pound.

Ardrahan is a cheese with a washed rind. The interior is deep yellow and firm. This cheese from West Cork was awarded a Silver Medal at the Irish Farm Cheese fair. It is $11.99 per pound.

Cashel Farmstead Blue is a medium-flavored blue with a creamy texture. It is less salty than most blues. The milk for this cheese comes entirely from Friesian cows. It costs $13.99 per pound.

Cahill Farms Irish Porter Cheese or Irish Whiskey Cheese looks like a polka-dot cheddar with pieces of straw-colored cheese marbled in a brown beer or yellow whiskey cheese base. The alcoholic beverages are added to the milk curds in the place of whey. The cheese ages in open barrels which means all the alcohol evaporates, leaving little taste of either porter or whiskey behind. It costs $12.99 per pound.

Cooleeney is a Camembert-style Irish cheese. Full-flavored and grassy, it has a distinct aroma of mushrooms when ripe. The shamrock design on the cheese is made with fresh dill weed. A 7-ounce wheel is $7.59.

According to food science writer Harold McGee, cheese is produced through a process of controlled spoilage. It continues to ripen until it's eaten, so it is important to ask your merchant how long a particular cheese will keep.

After serving, any leftover cheese should be wrapped in parchment paper, which allows it to breathe, and placed in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator. These drawers are designed to provide extra humidity, which keeps the cheese at its peak while it continues to age at a natural rate. If a resealable plastic bag is used in addition to the parchment, it should be closed only halfway so that the cheese continues to breathe.