What do you get when you cross a talented chef with a beautiful, charming and energetic spouse and a splendidly restored 1837 mansion? A first-rate restaurant in a magnificent building, and that is exactly what I found at Alfano's at The Quail.

Robert J. Pavuchak, Post-Gazette Executive chef Marc Alfano holds veal chop with balsamic glaze, asparagus and polenta gnocchi topped with roasted red peppers at his restaurant, Alfano's at The Quail in North Strabane, Washington County. Click photo for larger image. 1445 Washington Road North Strabane 724-229-2777 Hours: Dinner, 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays. Basics: Elegant antebellum home with multiple intimate dining spaces showcases the able talents of a young chef and the hospitable welcome of his wife and staff. Menu changes daily. Service is competent. Dining room is blissfully quiet with large spaces between tables and happily without background music. Prices: Appetizers, $3-$12; entrees, $13-$30; desserts, $3.50-$5.25. Summary: Entirely no smoking, accessible; major credit cards accepted. Free parking on grounds. BYOB at present, license pending. Reservations recommended.

Marc and Christina Alfano opened their restaurant in North Strabane last November, and in no time, the South Hills was abuzz with word-of-mouth testimonials. Everyone was enchanted with the food, the friendly welcome and the house. Marc finished his culinary studies in Pittsburgh in 2002 and worked in several local restaurants before opening his own luncheon dining spot in Washington. Christina began her restaurant career as a waitress at age 13, but it is likely her Duquesne University degree in communications counts most when running a restaurant and catering business.

The elegant Greek revival-style mansion with a two-story columned porch is an imposing presence, perched on a hill along Washington Road. The house is divided into nine dining rooms on two floors and a lounge. The interior architectural elements are highlighted by the contrast in wall and trim colors. The original floors of white oak pinned with square-head nails flow throughout. White cloths on the tables, tasteful decorations and dramatic lighting add to the appeal.

Chef Marc's menu changes daily and adds some Asian flourishes to what is essentially Mediterranean-centered cuisine. The appetizer menu begins with such Pittsburgh favorites as Stuffed Banana Peppers ($6.95), Fried Calamari ($8.95) and Crab Cake ($9.95). Fortunately there are some less trite appetizers for those of us who have lost our appetites for sausage and peppers or chewy calamari rings. Lamb Lollichops ($11) elevate the appetizer offerings to a higher level. Four individual lamb chops have been frenched, sauteed and served with rosemary aoli. When a chop is frenched, meat is cut away from the bone, leaving a long bone with a ball of meat at one end. The result is this protein "lollypop."

Ahi Poke Rolls ($9.95) are an intriguing variation on Asian spring rolls. Poke is a Hawaiian name for tuna, which for these rolls is marinated in soy and ginger and wrapped along with slices of fresh ginger in a wonton skin and deep fried. The resulting crispy roll is served with a slightly sweetened dipping sauce flavored with fresh ginger and sesame oil. Crab Stuffed Artichoke Bottoms ($9.95), three rounds of artichoke baked with a creamy crab stuffing, also get high marks. The creamy consistency of the stuffing was a good match for the tart, briny taste of the artichoke. These three appetizers are in a class apart from the sausage and pepper category.

I have always considered soups to be the ultimate test of a kitchen. This chef is a soup-master who especially loves cream-based combinations. Chowders and bisques and even a creamy French Onion soup are often on the menu. I tasted his Cream of Chicken with spring vegetables ($2.95), which showed his gift for seasoning. The sizable chunks of both chicken and vegetables made this a hearty soup.

Chef Marc makes his own fettuccine, which forms the base of Creamy Pesto with Chicken ($14.95). If you happen to dine on a night when Chef Gino Croce, Marc's semi-retired mentor from Boc-concino, comes to help in the kitchen, you will find the chef's homemade Seafood Ravioli ($16.95) on the menu. It is served with a pretty pink tomato cream sauce. Pumpkin Tortellini ($16.95) is served in a cream sauce with roasted tomatoes and topped with jumbo lump crab meat.

The fish selections change daily, although Crab Cakes ($20.95) and Seared Ahi ($21.95) seem to be staples. The usually present salmon is treated to different preparations. The chef is constantly varying the sauce or the flavor components. There might be mahi, grouper or snapper as well.

Ever-changing preparations is truly the hallmark of this menu. There is always a 12-ounce Filet Mignon ($26.95) on the menu, but he will vary the sauce. It could be wild mushrooms or it could be Bordeaux wine. The 14-ounce Strip Steak ($26.95) could be topped with crab, asiago cheese and spinach, or it could be sauced in green peppercorns and cream. The Rack of Lamb ($28.95) is a classic that never varies. Eight bones of chops in two blocks of four are seasoned with rosemary and cooked to your desired shade of pink. All plates are completed with fresh vegetables (the steamed asparagus had just the right amount of crunch) and a starch that might be gnocchi or potatoes or risotto, depending on the day.

Presentation of all courses is appealing. I especially liked the black triangular-shaped plates used for appetizers. The restaurant has invested in quality stem ware, which I especially appreciate since it increases the tasting pleasure for wines. Chef Marc bakes the Italian-style bread served with a basil-oil-romano cheese dipping sauce.

Alfano's dessert list is short. Although his Tiramisu ($4.50) has won awards and his Cannoli ($3.50) are fresh and fabulous, I recommend his Homemade Gelato ($4.50). The flavors change daily, and they are unlike anything that comes from a commercial source. I tasted the Hazelnut, bursting with the sweet, mild flavor of this nut and containing large pieces of toasted nuts.

The restaurant at the moment is BYOB, but it does have a list of 12 "designer" waters, both still and sparkling, priced from $6 to $8 for a liter. A liquor license is imminent.

The historic property housing Alfano's was once the home of the Quail family, who farmed 300 acres around the residence. The family lived in the house until 1933, when the last of the direct descendants passed on. It had not been occupied for several years before it was bought by a Washington resident who lovingly restored not only the house but also six outbuildings that now house a dozen shops called The Shoppes at Quail Acres (www.QuailAcres.com).

When you dine at Alfano's, Christina will be happy to give you a tour of the house, including some trap doors and secret hiding places that might indicate that this house was a haven for the Underground Railway during the Civil War. Even if restored houses are not your passion, the Alfanos' hospitality will win your heart.