Steve Mellon, Post-Gazette photos Hilda Pang Fu, left, of Point Breeze and Luck Kosoladolkitt, president of the Thai Association of Pittsburgh, mingle at a luncheon party yesterday at Bangkok Balcony restaurant in Squirrel Hill. Click photo for larger image.

Norraset and Eileen Nareedokmai love it when people say Bangkok Balcony is their favorite restaurant.

But not when they say it's their favorite Chinese restaurant.

That's because their second-floor Squirrel Hill restaurant is dedicated to serving only the most authentic cuisine of Thailand, Mr. Nareedokmai's southeast Asian homeland.

No fusion. No pan Asian. Just Thai, which is a cuisine in its own right. Even if it's not so well understood in this geographically challenged country.

The Nareedokmais' efforts to educate Pittsburgh palates were rewarded yesterday, when their restaurant became the first in the region to be awarded the "Thailand Brand" certification from the Thai government.

To apply, a restaurant's menu has to be 100-percent Thai, as does its owner and most of its staff. Criteria include serving the country's famously fragrant Hom Mali, or jasmine, rice, which was part of yesterday's four-course celebratory feast.

Vipawan Nipatakusol, the Thai consul general who came with Kanya Amorntheerakul, director of the Thai Trade Center in New York City, told about 30 invitees that the restaurant is the first in Pittsburgh and one of only three in the state to win the certification, which aims "to enhance Thailand's image" as a producer and exporter of quality goods and services.

Fresh Rolls were served at the Bangkok Balcony event yesterday. Click photo for larger image.

Mr. Nareedokmai said he shares the mission "to enhance our area's perspective on Thailand," and so he turned the afternoon into a celebration of Pittsburgh's Thai ties, which don't often make the spotlight.

Now, said Thai Association of Pittsburgh President Yawvaluck "Luck" Kosoladolkitt, "There's a lot going on."

She and Mr. Nareedokmai are on the committee that is raising funds and otherwise working to create a Thai Nationality Room in the Cathedral of Learning at the University of Pittsburgh. The project was launched this spring to mark the 50th birthday of Thailand's Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn. Two architects are coming here from Thailand on Dec. 3 to start on plans for the room, which the Thai delegation toured with university officials before yesterday's lunch.

Also at the party were representatives from Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens in Oakland, which is building its new multilevel Tropical Forest Exhibit. It's set to open next fall with a Thai theme that will run for two years, featuring programming on Thai culture, arts and history as well as vegetation. The Thai delegation toured the conservatory after lunch. On Nov. 23, Phipps is sending two staffers on a two-week research tour of Thailand.

By the time the Thai Tropical Forest exhibit closes, Mr. Nareedokmai hopes to be able to move at least some of it into a regional Thai Cultural Center he envisions building in Pittsburgh with private and Thai government investment. In fact, today, he was to meet on that dream with the Thai delegation and local officials.

	During a gathering at Bangkok Balcony restaurant, Marnie Conley, left, director of marketing strategy at Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens, chats with Luck Kosoladolkitt, president of the Thai Association of Pittsburgh. Click photo for larger image.

"It's going to be the channel for the Thai government to come into the Tri-State area," he said, "and be the center of anything that has to do with Thailand" -- from trade to tourism.

The Thai Association's Ms. Kosoladolkitt also talked about two other newsy developments.

One is a new Asian Film Festival, called Silk Screen, being planned for Pittsburgh for May 12-20. She will ask the consul for help in bringing in the Thai movie, "Suriyotai," about the queen of that name who saved the country, as well as a Thai martial arts film.

Ms. Kosoladolkitt and Thai officials also visited Upper St. Clair High School, which is to start the first Thai student exchange here in spring. About 30 students will come here from Thailand first, and then in June, Upper St. Clair kids will go there.

Meanwhile, Bangkok Balcony, with its indigenous decor, might be as close as most Pittsburghers get to Thailand. Bangkok is the capital of that nation, which used to be known as Siam and which now has a population of about 65 million people. In the Thai language, "thai" means freedom.

The area's Thai community isn't big, and turns over frequently, as it's mostly college students. Ms. Kosoladolkitt said there are about 450 Thai people here, and many are involved with the association, which started more than 20 years ago. She's also active with the Asian American Heritage Committee and president of the Asian Women's Institute.

Now that the Nareedokmais have connected with her, they want to continue to raise the profile of all things Thai, starting at Bangkok Balcony, which was named best Thai restaurant this year by Pittsburgh Magazine.

The place recently has offered more unusual specials from some of Thailand's 76 provinces, which have their own cuisines. Yesterday's feast didn't include more common Pad Thai, but did feature main courses such as "Fish of Three Flavors" and a chicken chili from Mr. Nareedokmai's northern province of Tak (pronounced Dak).

The couple are working to import chefs from different regions for 15- to 18-month stays at the restaurant. Right now they're seeking a visa for one from Tak to be the first.

The plan is to have the chef host meet-and-greet brunches and educational events to show off their region's specialties and "to distinguish [Thai] from other foods," Mrs. Nareedikmai said.

"We love fusion food, too," she pointed out. But they hope more people will get a taste of real Thai, in food and culture, too.