The focus of a recent trip to San Francisco was food. There were visits to Marin County to watch cowgirls Sue and Peggy produce their Cowgirl Creamery cheeses, to McElvoy Ranch for an olive oil tasting and to Hog Island Oyster Farm in Point Reyes for a lesson in oyster farming. There was a whole morning spent wandering through the organic produce market that covers the wharves of the San Francisco Bay ferry service every Saturday. There were dinners in legendary restaurants and Sunday morning dim sum in Chinatown. There were winery visits in Napa and a drive through Castroville, the artichoke capital of the world. But to top it all off and to remind me that my food life is firmly rooted in Pittsburgh, there was lunch at Giordano Brothers. Lunch there is called the "all-in-one sandwich."

Photographer, Post-Gazette Fries on your sandwich? Yes, even in San Francisco -- if you're at Giordano Brothers, which is owned by a Pittsburgh couple. Click photo for larger image. Giordano Brothers 303 Columbus Ave. San Francisco 1-415-397-2767 Hours: 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Sundays-Thursdays; 11:30 a.m.-1:30 a.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Basics: This small grill in the heart of San Francisco's hip North Beach neighborhood serves Primanti sandwiches, wine, beer and Steelers adulation. Prices: $4.50-$7.25; dessert, $1.50; wines $4.50-$5.75. Summary: No smoking; accessible; cash only.

Giordano Brothers is on Columbus Avenue in the heart of North Beach, San Francisco's center of Bohemian culture and a gastronomical beacon. Once it was the center of a large Italian immigrant community. When I was growing up in San Francisco (pre-Starbucks), North Beach was the only place in town with sidewalk cafes or real espresso coffee. The best Italian restaurants were clustered there along with Molinari Deli, whose ceiling was hung with salami of every dimension, balls of provolone cheese and whole prosciuttos. One of my fondest memories of that San Francisco childhood is of dinners at Cafe Tosca, where the all-Italian waitstaff were would-be opera stars who would serve up an aria with each entree. At some point during the meal, several of them would join together to act out an entire scene from Puccini or Verdi. The Hungry i or The Purple Onion, also on Columbus Avenue, featured the likes of Barbra Streisand, the Kingston Trio or Phyllis Diller. In hindsight, I can see many similarities between North Beach and Pittsburgh's Strip District. Jeffrey Jordan saw them, too.

Giordano Brothers is the creation of Jordan and his wife Allison. Both are Pittsburghers transplanted to San Francisco for career reasons. Jordan's great-grandfather came to Pittsburgh from Palermo, Italy, at the turn of the century. His Italian name, Rafael Giordano, became Ralph Jordan. In 1923, he opened a produce company called "Jordan Banana Company" which eventually settled in the Strip directly across an alley from the original Primanti Bros. Thus the famous sandwich became a favorite meal for the Jordan family.

"San Francisco has everything you could ever want ... except Primanti's sandwiches!" Jordan proclaims. So he and his wife began making their version of the sandwich whenever they had parties. Their friends became hooked, and the idea of making a Primanti Brothers-style grill on the West Coast was born. They call their product the "All in One" sandwich. Their Primanti Bros. look-alike sandwiches seem to have filled a niche in the Bay area. Since their opening in July 2004, they have won awards for Best Sandwich, Best New Sandwich and Best Breakfast Sandwich in various Bay area publications.

The Jordans have modified the traditional sandwich to give it a bit more California cachet. The fries are hand-cut from fresh potatoes and fried in single batches when a sandwich is ordered. The slaw is also assembled individually when each sandwich is being made. Dressing for the slaw is made from extra virgin olive oil and vinegar in Giordano's kitchen. It should not be surprising that Giordano's has become the headquarters for West Coast Steelers fans. The burgundy colored walls are hung with framed color photos of important Steelers moments. There are four television screens that on game days bring lots of action to the local fans.

Giordano Bros. All-In-One sandwiches are made with thick slices of Italian bread from a famous old North Beach bakery. The coppa, cappicola, pastrami, sausage and salami are also from neighboring purveyors. Sandwiches vary in price from $6.25 to $7.25. There are also East Coast Wings for $6.95 and vegetarian chili for $4.50. Dessert is a homemade "All-In-One" cookie ($1.50).

One important ingredient is missing from the menu, however, and that is the number one seller at Primanti's -- Iron City Beer. Jordan has tried in vain to find a purveyor of Iron City in San Francisco. Sadly, his domestic beers are limited to Bud and Miller ($3). He has a nice list of craft ales and porters such as the local favorite, Anchor Steam Ale ($4) and a few imports. The wine list is limited to California wines sold by the glass only ($4.50-$5.75).

Giordano's has become a popular lunch spot with both white- and blue- collar workers from the neighborhood. Most of the dinner crowd are neighbors who live in North Beach. Just like Primanti's, Giordano's has become a favorite with local chefs who frequently stop by for an All-In-One after finishing duties in their own kitchens.

Giordano's is not the only Primanti Bros. clone. In Ohio there is a chain with 14 outlets called Panini's Bar and Grill, where you will find the "Overstuffed Sandwich" (go to www.paninisgrill.com for locations).

If you are looking for Pittsburgh on the Pacific, head directly to Giordano Brothers on Columbus in the heart of historic North Beach. One diner there told me, "When I come here, I'm not from Pittsburgh, I'm from Canonsburg." Someone across the room piped in, "Yea, what part of Canonsburg?" When you have finished your All-In-One, you can stroll next door to the landmark City Lights Book Store and meet the ghosts of Lawrence Ferlinghetti and his Beat generation literary pals. Chinatown and Telegraph Hill are also within easy walking distance.