From left, for next spring: Monique Lhuillier's collection includes a mustard silk gazar halter pleated cocktail dress; Marc Jacobs decides to walk on the dark side; Bill Blass, as usual parades dresses that carry a soft, easy elegance.

Bebeto Matthews, Associated Press, Fernanda Calfat and Robyn Beck, Getty Images

By LaMont Jones
Pittsburgh Post-Gazette NEW YORK CITY -- Marc Jacobs, perhaps the most influential American fashion designer today, has shared an inspired vision of what women might wear next spring.

The question is, inspired by what?

Judging by the collection he debuted Monday night at the Armory, some might imagine dark, stormy days. Death, destruction, gloom and sorrow might not be far off the mark, either.

To call the line ugly might be to miss whatever point Jacobs was trying to make. He had told Women's Wear Daily that he's tired of "everyone looking as if they've just come from the beach" and that "fashion right now takes a little more work." That's a fair assessment, but his spring collection doesn't reflect that philosophy.

In the end, it's what the clothes look and feel like that matter, more than inspiration, intellect, high-falutin' ideals or even the can-do-no-wrong popularity of the designer. So it was a little surprising that one of Jacobs' magnitude -- though he often proves himself predictably unpredictable -- sent out apparel that looked like a fashion student's graduation project.

Penn State's Nittany Lions Blue Band opened the show with energy and excitement, but the mood quickly went in the opposite direction as the first of 63 looks came tromping down the runway. Drab, uniform-like garments were shown on grim-faced models with limp, stringy hair, minimal or no jewelry and a smear of pale lip gloss as the only discernible sign of makeup.

Pea jackets, shirts, skirts, dresses, pants and shorts of glamourless gabardine, cotton, sateen, silk and lame rarely ventured beyond black, white, gray and silver. Except for the occasional cowl, pleat and hint of lace, looks were boxy, limp or just plain boring. Several pieces were cut generously enough to hide figures as well as flaws, assuming that was Jacobs' intent.

Stephen Chernin and Bebeto Matthews, Associated Press Marc Jacobs' spring collection looks limp, left, especially when compared with Monique Lhuillier's ballerina cocktail dresses. Click photo for larger image. Previous articles: De la Renta, Herrera, others put together fabulous lineups Spring fashions wrap themselves in subtler colors and designs

Except for a handful of outfits -- a sparkly blue and silver shift, a shiny Army-green rain slicker, a chocolate pantsuit with long jacket, silver lame pajamas, an embroidered coat that could easily accommodate two women -- the best pieces in the collection were the shoes. Black velvet and patent mules and gold and silver lame and brocade sandals are likely to inspire knock-offs before they even hit the stores.

Jacobs seems determined to push fashion squarely into a state of minimalism. That's not necessarily a bad thing, considering that it's already on its way there. It's just that minimal doesn't have to mean ugly. Mary J. Blige, Carmen Electra, Eva Longoria and the other style-obsessed celebs who attended the Jacobs show would probably agree.

Bill Blass

The type of soft, easy elegance shown for spring exemplifies why the brand has been able to survive and navigate sea changes in fashion for so many decades.

The classically beautiful dresses and gowns included styles relevant not just to the monied older women who streamed into the venue yesterday morning, but also to these Blass devotees' daughters and granddaughters.

There was a lot of the minimal, understated color that has typified most collections for spring. Yet they had luxurious detail, such as a camel and ivory cashmere houndstooth pantsuit, a taupe and black metallic silk chiffon strapless gown and a black embroidered tulle strapless party dress.

There also was refreshing color in the mix in a number of come-hither evening looks, from a fun apple green iridescent silk taffeta party dress and a lilac paisley silk print gown with embroidered cutout bodice to a lilac and white silk gingham party dress and a jade and white floral print, silk taffeta coat with matching green square-neck dress.

Monique Lhuillier

Here was another winning collection of evening and special-occasion looks that married soft color, stark neutrals and a touch of bling for the right balance of boldness and restraint.

Any woman who wants to stand out in a crowd can't go wrong with a Lhuillier frock, and she provided ample choices. Women with great gams might find the sexy ballerina cocktail dresses in caviar tulle, illusion tulle with eyelet ribbons and powder pink cotton tulle soiree-worthy.

There were chic looks for other tastes, such as a midnight blue shrunken wool pea coat with a matching tufted straight skirt, a mustard silk pleated halter cocktail dress, a white-to-black silk chiffon drop-waist cocktail number and a dusty rose crepe-back satin cowled blouson gown with a jeweled plunging back for a diva-has-left-the-building exit.

Ellen Tracy

Women who dress conservatively but have a yen for fashion and who are not yet ready for minimalism in color will be glad to know that Ellen Tracy is offering plenty of it.

For daytime and evening, simple elegance is the theme of the season. Among many choice pieces, shown with large handbags and sunglasses and lace-up wedge heels, were navy-and-white batik paisley tunics and skirts, a garden floral blouse over a smart white linen pleated skirt and an orange diagonal-texture shell with a matching embroidered, yarn-dyed linen skirt. For the younger customer who revels in her sexiness, there were tasteful pieces such as an aubergine etched silk georgette scarf bandeau and a navel-bearing flax silk tweed sequin-border jacket.

Reem Acra

Even when fashion trends back toward a neutral palette where overt adornment is only an occasional indulgence, there are always designers women can go to for unapologetic glitz and glimmer. Reem Acra is one of them, and her spring collection is short on bright colors but long on lovely sparkle and shine.

Inspired by yesteryear grand dames Babe Paley, Barbara Hutton, Doris Duke and Millicent Rogers, the line features metallic embroidered tulle dresses, flowing halter gowns and swingy circle skirts in white, nude, silver, gold pink and turquoise. The range of red carpet-worthy looks ran the gamut, from a gold embroidered top with white cuffed and pleated tuxedo pants to a breathtaking bronze gold-embroidered halter gown and a tres chic white off-shoulder top paired with a stunning gold taffeta flower skirt.

Dana Buchman

Like other designers for spring, Buchman emphasized pattern more than color in an attractive, wearable array of sportswear, daywear and event looks. Pinks, purples, lilacs and lavenders added welcomed color to her neutral palette in pretty cocktail dresses and day-to-evening suits.

Buchman is a favorite of stylish career women, and for spring she gives them more indulgences with short pleated skirts with lots of swing, fun capris and several colorful contrast-pattern ensembles juxtaposed with dramatic sportswear in black and white.

Buchman knows what women don't want and, more importantly, what they do want and how to give it to them without being formulaic or sacrificing creativity. Pieces such as a lasercut, coral suede jacket and a tailored gray-and-pink pinstripe pantsuit demonstrate that relevance and edginess don't have to be mutually exclusive.