In Pittsburgh, we seem to be firmly wedded to the idea that if it doesn't come buried under a blanket of red sauce of one kind or another, dinner has been disappointing. I admire the revolutionary spirit of entrepreneurs who are willing to breach conventional wisdom and to chart new waters. Such a pioneer is Marty Pickholtz, a native son who graduated from Mt. Lebanon High School. His love of food took him to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., where he earned a culinary arts degree. In 1981, Pickholtz accepted a food industry job in St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands, and stayed there for 20 years.

Tony Tye, Post-Gazette Chef-owner Marty Pickholtz, left, and chef Eric Riley display the Paradise Cafe's Crab and potato cake with roasted corn salsa and vanilla balsamic reduction, left; pistachio-crusted lamb rack; rum and pepper painted snapper with banana curry reduction and strawberry and pepper vinaigrette; curried vegetable and cashew turnover with a saffron curry aioli at the restaurant in Castle Shannon. Click photo for larger image. Paradise Cafe 3821 Willow Ave. Castle Shannon 412-440-0244 Hours: Dinner, Tues.-Sat., 5-10 p.m. Basics: A small bistro-like space specializing in West Indian flavors. Recipes brought home to Pittsburgh from natives in the islands bring a home-cooking feel to the foods served. Prices: Appetizers, $4.95-$10.95; entrees, $14.95-$22.95; desserts, $5.95-$7.95; BYOB, $5 corkage. Summary: No smoking. Wheelchair accessible for dining room but not for restrooms. Street parking, no meters after 6 p.m. All major credit cards accepted. Reservations accepted.

His love for the island and for Creole food has now inspired the opening of Paradise Cafe in the building that once housed Peppercorns Restaurant.

The remodeled dining room is painted in bright and sunny colors. Turquoise dominates and provides a colorful backdrop for the owner's collection of island art. Paintings by conventional Caribbean artists are interspersed with primitive Haitian canvases. The checkerboard black and white ceramic floor tiles give the small space a bistro flavor but the reggae coming through the sound system makes it distinctly Caribbean.

Menus are presented on the backs of woven palm-frond fans. Soups have a decided island flavor. Conch chowder ($4.95) is always on the menu. The soup of the day ($2.95) varies, but sticks with Caribbean ingredients with selections such as Banana Cream Soup, Cold Mango Soup and Black Bean Soup. On a scorching day in August, the mango soup seemed a perfect choice. I was disappointed, however, not by the soup's temperature but by the faintness of the taste of mango in the milky base.

The Curried Vegetable and Cashew Turnover ($4.95 for two) was entirely satisfactory. The spicy filling of potatoes, peas, carrots and ground cashews wrapped in a curry pastry crust is similar to samosas found on Indian menus. (It is not surprising to find traces of many cultures in Caribbean food; the West Indies have always been a crossroads and foods there are heavily influenced by French, Asian, African, Latin and Indian flavors.) Other appetizers are more conventional but share special island ingredients. For example, Shrimp Wrapped in Zucchini ($7.95) is one giant prawn wrapped in thinly sliced zucchini. This is grilled and sauced in mango vinaigrette, and adorns a pile of spring salad greens also dressed with the mango sauce. All the food is served on colorful Fiestaware, which adds panache to the overall visual appeal and suits the beachy ambience of the dining room.

The entree menu features a trio of fish dishes. The most traditional is West Indian Boiled Fish ($16.95). For this entree, a one-pound snapper is poached in courtbouillon that has been kicked up a notch with scotch bonnet peppers. The fish is served with a West Indian dish called "fungi" -- or, in Pittsburghese, a creamy polenta with okra. There is Plantain Crusted Grouper ($14.95), which has been coated with coconut cream before the dusting of finely chopped fried plantain chips.

Beef lovers will want to try the Coffee and Peppered Filet Mignon ($21.95). This 9-ounce filet has a crust of Jamaican coffee, peppercorns, garlic and cumin -- you certainly won't find this in any other Pittsburgh eatery. Miss Ruth's Ribs ($18.95 for a whole rack) are tender and flavorful baby-back ribs that are glazed with a sauce made from a secret recipe from one of Pickholtz's island friends. There are many constantly changing specials prepared by young associate chef, Eric Riley, who enjoys experimenting with new ingredients and combinations. Riley worked at Pandolfo's in Nevillewood before joining Pickholtz at Paradise Cafe.

All entrees come with a garden salad, house-made biscuits, a starch and fresh vegetables. The house bread, Coconut Dumb Bread, is another island specialty; it is similar to a biscuit, but is made with coconut flour. One of the starches offered is black rice, which was mushy and bland. I hope the kitchen will modify either the rice selection itself or its cooking time, since it could be an interesting option.

Paradise Cafe has a small but excellent dessert menu, all made in-house. Key Lime Cheesecake with Almond Crust and Lime Curd Topping ($5.95) is perhaps the yummiest dessert I have tasted all year. I am not normally a cheesecake-eater, but the mention of almond crust and lime curd topping attracted me. It would have been criminal not to have tasted this fabulous sweet: The crust is indeed almondy and the texture is that of a Mexican Wedding cookie; the cheesecake itself is lighter and thinner than most; and the lime curd keeps the citrus emphasis strong. West Indian Black Cake ($5.95) was fine but after the "dessert of the year," it came in a distant second. This cake reminded me of British Christmas Pudding, a sort of steamed fruit cake chock full of raisins and nuts. It is no doubt better suited to a cold winter night than to a hot August one.

Pickholtz is the kind of food lover who recognizes that good coffee at the end of a memorable meal is essential. He has installed a proper espresso machine and served both espresso ($1.95) and cappuccino ($2.95) to his guests. The restaurant sells no wines or spirits, but holds a BYOB policy: Corkage is $5 for customers who bring their own wine. There are two rooms and a separate entrance available for private parties.

The South Hills are now alive with the sounds of Bob Marley and the tastes of Scotch Bonnets, coconuts and plantains thanks to Marty Pickholtz's dream.