Born in 1913 as a Ukrainian Presbyterian church with twin-domed cupolas, the elegant building at 1005 E. Carson Street was purchased by the South Side Christian Methodist Episcopal Conference in the 1950s and renamed Cleaves Temple CME Church.
The facade of the church features four massive ionic columns supporting a triangular gable, giving it a striking resemblance to a classic Greek temple entrance.
Cleaves Temple has now undergone yet another transformation -- today it is the trendy Halo Cafe, serving modern American food, exotic cocktails and contemporary music.
Mount the double staircase leading up to the entrance and admire the artistic metal grillwork on the porch. Once inside the old temple, one is struck by the volume of the room that now houses a giant oval-shaped bar and banquettes and tables for diners. Of course, in a city that has welcomed the conversion of one Catholic church into a micro-brewery with vats on the altar and another into a hopping nightclub with provocatively clad bartenders dispensing beverages, it no longer seems strange to see depictions of Jesus as a shepherd watching over his flocks behind the bar. At Halo, the altar area is home to a gigantic, movie screen-size television. During dining hours, it displays slide-show seascapes, landscapes and famous museum art treasures. Later in the evening it reverts to sports events. On one side of the room are tables and chairs and on the other are upholstered circular banquettes that can seat up to six. Regardless of the number in your party, I suggest that you request a table. Something in the design and proportions of the banquettes went awry, making these seats uncomfortable. The owner and architect are working on a re-fit solution, and soon the benches will be suitable for normal-size patrons.
Don't let the size of the bar fool you into thinking this place is all about beverages. Perhaps Halo's greatest attribute is the talent in the kitchen. Thanks to chef Chet Garland and sous chef Jenny Robie, the Halo menu is filled with unusual delights. Both chefs are not only graduates of prestigious culinary academies but they have also worked with a wide range of chefs with links to some of America's legendary cooks. Names like Jean Georges Vongerichten, Thomas Keller and Patrick O'Connell. Garland has gleaned some trade secrets from each of them and mixed them with his Pittsburgh roots and an appreciation for Southern food to come up with a menu that is totally original and oh, so appealing.
All appetizers are $6. The selection goes from Bison Fajitas on corn crepes with whipped avocado and creme fraiche to Crispy Lamb Raviolis. These deep-fried morsels are filled with spiced lamb and feta cheese and served with a cooling cucumber mint dipping sauce. Warm Mushroom Strudel made from wild mushroom and brie and wrapped in filo pastry tied with Pan Seared Scallops doused in tangerine oil as favorites. But with the exception of Halo's Roll, a quasi-sushi with a different twist, there wasn't one appetizer I wouldn't want to have again and again. Soups, too, rate high marks, especially the Sweet Onion Bisque ($5). This dense essence of sweet onions stewed in butter and pureed with cream is further enhanced with a garnish of Cajun-seasoned sauteed crab meat. At lunch I had Carrot Ginger Bisque ($4), which was equally bursting with flavor and almost thick enough to eat with a fork.
Entree portions are small and reasonably priced. They, too, offer unusual combinations and ingredients. Garland's version of chicken fingers is Pancetta Wrapped Chicken ($10). Logs of chicken breast meat are rubbed with spices, then wrapped in bacon and deep fried, giving the fingers a crispy coating while leaving the chicken meat moist and tender. Frog Legs ($12) get a piccata-style treatment of lemon and capers and are served with basil gnocchi. Brown Sugar and Rosemary Braised Pork ($11) is cooked for 24 hours and served with authentic collard greens. Brandy Peppercorn Crusted Veal Rack ($15) is four tiny chops sitting on a bed of orzo pilaf with vegetables.
Halo side dishes ($4) are an important addition to the menu. Here you will find such treats as Smoked Cheddar Cheese Grits or Fried Asparagus with Citrus Aioli, Rock Shrimp Hushpuppies, Potato and Pork Belly Hash (no comments until you have tried this over-the-top fat and carb combo!), Grilled Leeks with Lemon Garlic Butter or Truffled Mac and Cheese. Although not on the menu, the kitchen is happy to send out an order of the wonderful fried sweet potatoes it serves at lunch. It would no doubt also accommodate any requests for the Shrimp and Grits ($6), which are on the lunch menu but mysteriously was zapped from the dinner options. The sandwiches served at lunch range from a Black Bean Burger ($7) to a Club Sandwich ($10). All are made with MediTerra bread and served with a choice of french fries, truffled mac and cheese, sweet potato fries or sauteed vegetables. All the lunch selections received raves from my guests.
The dessert list is small. All are made in-house, and each is $5. I've tried several, and the hands-down favorite was the Creme Brulee. There are three miniature pots of creme, each with a different flavor: vanilla bean, berry and pink peppercorn. Choco-freaks will opt for the chocolate trio of mousse, ice cream sandwich and fudge. There is a nut-centric trio of pine nut tart, hazelnut cake and pistachio ice cream.
Halo's wine list is adequate and focused on lower- to mid-level wines, all available by the glass ($6 to $10 a glass, $20 to $40 a bottle). The bar, of course, serves a plethora of "tini"-type concoctions as well as beers in bottle and on draught.
Halo has a club space and dance floor under the dining room. Meal service ends at midnight, but the lounge area is a lively spot until 2 a.m. Also on the lower level are restrooms that offer an artistic take on signage. I'll say no more ... except that they merit a visit.
East Carson Street continues to provide Pittsburghers with an abundance of venues for fun and food. Halo is in a category of its own on both counts.