What more could one ask? The cause was worthy. The dining room at the Hartwood Restaurant was handsome. The staff was obliging. The dinner was delicious. The wines were superb. And the guests were all interesting.

		The Hartwood Restaurant is at 3400 Harts Run Road, Indiana Township; 412-767-3500. Lunch is served in the restaurant from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays; dinner is served in the restaurant and in the Whispers Pub from 5:30 p.m. until closing Wednesdays through Saturdays.

The meal began with introductions. We were Joan Feldman and Bill Adams of Point Breeze; Bruce May of Wexford; and Gene Deskins and Marilyn McDevitt Rubin, also of Point Breeze.

Feldman and Adams, both lawyers, had purchased the dinner -- given by Don Montgomery, owner of the restaurant on Harts Run Road in Indiana Township (along with Karen Guthrie) -- at an auction benefitting Pittsburgh's La Roche College. I acted as host. Chef Eddie Myers, ably assisted by his partner Alyson Crispin, decided on a fusion menu influenced by their years of cooking professionally in Hawaii. Bill Adams, a connoisseur with a refined palate who is always on the lookout for wines that meet his high standards, searched his cellar for compatible accompaniments to the meal and generously brought five superb wines to the table. The wine made the food taste better, the food made the wine taste better, and -- as wine will -- it raised the level of bonhomie.

Here's how the evening went, the talk getting more animated and the laughter louder as it progressed.

Our dinner began with authentic Bangkok shrimp wontons served with a spicy Thai ginger glaze, a wonderful appetizer when done right, as this was. When I saw what wine was to accompany the wonton, I knew East had met West. Adams poured Dom Perignon champagne, 1996.

Bruce May, who writes about wine for the Post-Gazette, was the first to speak: "Delightful. Wonderful. The best vintage since 1990."

It had, he thought, the requisite creamy bread-yeast quality and crisp citrus in the finish of the finest champagne.

Adams, who chose it, might have made the champagne, he was so pleased with its reception. As he pointed out, the complication in the pairing was the wonton's sweet glaze. The beautiful Dom Perignon was in no way compromised.

Two more appetizers followed: a Caribbean clam bisque and what the menu called a Hartwood Salad (a fetching mix of wild greens, garden things and blue cheese tossed in a fresh herb vinaigrette). We might have continued to sip champagne, but Adams had something else in mind. From his stash came a 2000 California Rochioli, Russian River Valley -- East Block, pinot noir. While it was Adams' choice, it turned out to be one of Bruce May's favorite pinots. Diners at the table discerned plum and black cherry flavors.

Firm, flavorful, pan-fried mahi-mahi was served with caramelized sweet onions, avocado and a garlic chile shoyu reduction. It was accompanied by jasmine wild rice. The delicious combination provided enough flavor to satisfy anyone. Chef Eddie had used his connections to bring the mahi-mahi from Hawaii, with assistance from Pittsburgh's Nordic Fisheries, and he had treated the fish with consummate skill.

As his next contribution, Adams provided a 2000 Kistler chardonnay from Caneros, Calif. Kistler is a noted producer of chardonnays and pinot noirs. Some of its wines are made using grapes from a variety of vineyards. Not in this case. This chardonnay is made exclusively from grapes produced in Kistler's Hyde vineyard. Nicely matured and with apple fruit flavor, it had caramel accents in the finish and shimmered in the glass like sunshine.

After the palate cleanser of minted lime ice, we continued on to a tender, well-flavored, filet mignon with sauce bearnaise. The wine Adams reached for next was his favorite Kistler Vineyard pinot noir, 2000. It proved to be a favorite with everyone. We felt privileged that he was willing to share with us what May called "California at its best."

Compliments flew around the table: "Well-balanced with spice in the finish," "incredible mouth feel," "cherry, plum and blackberry," and, summing it up, "Absolutely delicious."

Heralding the end of the evening, our final course and last wine came all too soon. Ice cream drizzled with caramel was served on a plate sprinkled with a confetti of assorted ripe fruits.

The wine here was a 1994 Far Niente Dolce from Napa Valley. Made in small quantities, it is California's premier dessert wine where its only equal is considered, by the winemaker Dirk Hansen to be the vaunted Chateau d'Yquem. The compliments the wine received were strung together like a poem; we tasted honey nougat, apricot, peach, its sweetness balanced by just the right acidity.

When the meal was over, the kitchen staff entered the dining room to accept the guests' applause and to share the wines set aside for them to sample. We were a group that met essentially as strangers and were now friends. We hated to break the enchanted circle that bound us. Once again, wine and food had in combination worked their magic.