When P.F. Chang's opened at the Waterfront in Homestead in 2001, it was the hottest table in town. Patrons lined up for as long as two hours waiting to experience Chang's bistro concept paired with Chinese cuisine. Happily, those days of long waits are over. Today Chang's accepts reservations so that those who call ahead can breeze right in and be seated immediately.

Tony Tye, Post-Gazette Executive chef/culinary partner Christian Mayrhofer handles a wok at P.F. Chang's at the Waterfront. Click photo for larger image. P.F. Chang's China Bistro The Waterfront 148 Bridge St. West Homestead 412-464-0640 Hours: 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Basics: Part of a chain of well-designed and executed Chinese restaurants with an American soul. The menu interprets some Chinese classics and adds dishes with American and other Asian influences. Reasonably priced. Lighthearted atmosphere. The clientele tends to be primarily young people. Vegetarian friendly and a gluten-free menu. Can be noisy on weekend evenings. Prices: Appetizers, $4.95-$7.95; entrees, $7.50 (lunch) to $12.95; desserts, $5.25; wines by glass, $6.50-$11.95. Summary: Smoking in bar only. Wheelchair accessible. Free parking. All major credit cards accepted. Reservations advised.

There is a lot to like about P.F. Chang's, a chain operation with more than 100 restaurants sprinkled all over the United States. Their formula of Chinese decor and menu coupled with casual American ambience seems to have filled a niche in the American market and made them a remarkable success story.

The menu draws from all the Chinese regions and cooking styles. Because most Chinese immigrants to our country came from the Canton region, Americans generally are most familiar with Cantonese food. One of the Cantonese dishes at Chang's is the wonderful lettuce wrap appetizer ($6.95). In China, lettuce wraps are usually served with minced pigeon. Chang's offers diners a choice between spicy chicken or wok-seared tofu with onions, water chestnuts, fresh mint and lime. Each is served with a plate of crisp iceberg lettuce leaves that are used to wrap the filling into a sort of Chinese burrito. Dip these into a sauce concocted of soy sauce, chili oil and Chinese mustard for a mouthful of contrasting tastes and textures. This is the embodiment of the Chinese principle of yin and yang and a delightful departure from the usual fried spring rolls, the standard appetizer for most Chinese meals.

From Peking there are dumplings ($4.95) filled with ground pork, bean sprouts and ginger that have been steamed (or pan fried) and are served with a special dipping sauce that is slightly sweet and salty. Shanghai Street Dumplings ($5.95) are a variation on the same theme, with a filling of chicken, ginger and green onions.

Cantonese chefs specialize in stir-frying, and Chang's menu reflects that interest. From Stir-Fried Spinach with Garlic ($4.95) to Almond and Cashew Chicken ($9.95) or Beef with Broccoli ($9.95), the Canton province is well represented on the menu. In the northern part of China, wheat replaces rice as the primary starch. Most of the noodle options come from that area. Double Pan-Fried Noodles ($10.95) are a good example. The semi-crisp egg noodles are stir-fried with vegetables and served with a choice of beef, pork, chicken or shrimp. Mongolian Beef ($12.25) and Wok-Seared Lamb ($12.95) are also northern specialities.

In many parts of the world, the most popular Chinese cuisine is from the Szechuan region, China's largest province. Because the "Silk Route" passed through this area, the cooking here is strongly influenced by foreign elements, chief among them spices normally associated with Indian cuisine. Szechuan chefs make liberal use of hot and pungent spices and heavy doses of pepper and chilis. Salt and Pepper Calamari ($6.95) is a good example of a P.F. Chang's Szechuan dish. Szechuan-Style Pork ($10.95) is stir-fried with peppers, onions and a spicy sauce of chili peppers. Kung Pao Chicken ($10.95) also has a heavy dose of chilis to spice the fried chunks of chicken, peppers and scallions. This entree is sprinkled with peanuts, something probably not found on the Silk Route.

Although all Szechuan dishes on the menu are marked as "spicy," they were far milder than any such classics from a Szechuan restaurant. P.F. Chang's seems to prefer keeping the chilis on the light side and allowing patrons to add heat to its taste at the table. Various pastes and sauces are left for this purpose. Diners can choose between white and brown rice, a healthy and delicious option not normally available in Chinese restaurants.

The choices for vegetarians are many, from the vegetarian lettuce wraps mentioned above to the Vegetable Chow Fun ($6.95) or the Ma Po Tofu ($6.95) and many vegetable side plates. The restaurant also offers a gluten-free menu. An interesting addition to the menu is a box called Training Table Menu. This lists total calories, protein, carbs, total fat and saturated fat for a number of the entrees. I suggest that you not look at this before ordering. You might not find anything on your calorie budget if you do. Kung Pao Chicken, for example, is 930 calories and 50 grams of total fat.

Not all the items on Chang's menu are Chinese classics. Seared Ahi Tuna ($7.95) is an appetizer you won't find in a restaurant in Beijing. Coconut Curry Vegetables ($6.95) is another non-Chinese entree, this time with a wave to neighboring Thailand.

From the dessert list, I suggest trying the Banana Spring Rolls ($5.25). Bananas wrapped in spring roll dough are fried and served with a scoop of coconut pineapple ice cream with caramel sauce and fresh berries. It might not be a traditional Chinese dessert, but it is very tasty and probably more health-friendly than the six-layer chocolate cake frosted with chocolate chips and termed The Great Wall of Chocolate ($6.95).

The restaurant does not provide complimentary tea for your meal, but there is a selection of the beverage available for $2.50. They are brewed and served in a beautiful Chinese cast-iron tea pot.

There is a wide selection of wines with virtually all available by the glass. The bottle prices range from $24 for an Australian chardonnay to $48 for a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. The glass price is one-fourth the bottle price. A bottle of Tsingtao beer is $4.50.

P.F. Chang's restaurants all share a common theme in decor. Guarding the entrance are giant copies of the famous battle mounts of the terra cotta soldiers of Xian, China. Inside, copies of the 11th-century warriors who rode these steeds preside over the dining room. An impressive mural depicting life in imperial China hangs over the open kitchen and spans nearly the entire width of the dining room. The overhead lighting comes from what look like large floating water lily pads. Booths ring the edges of the room with tables in the center well spaced. I prefer the booths opposite the reception desk, which have a perfect view of both the Xian warriors and the magnificent mural. The only off-putting aspect of this lovely environment is the rock music, which seems totally unsuited to the theme of this restaurant and which, when added to the din of a busy roomful of happy diners, ratchets up the noise level to unacceptable levels.

The service is cheerful and friendly. There were a few lapses, such as dessert being served with the soy sauce, chili paste and mustard pots still on the table and without the crumbs and spills from the meal being cleared.

Chang's offers take-out orders delivered to the curb. The menu is available at www.pfchangs.com. For take-out, call the restaurant number listed.

The appeal of P.F. Chang's is in the variety of the menu, the freshness of the ingredients, the fairness of the prices and the beauty of the interior. Now that no one need spend two hours waiting for a table, it is a perfect place to enjoy what could be termed Chinese-American food.