Dish is the name of this new column about food trends. It will have the kind of juicy bits we might exchange over coffee or on the telephone, and I'll always include a recipe.

	Robin Rombach, Post-Gazette The rippled edge of the blade keeps food from sticking to the santoku knife. Click photo for larger image.

So let's dish.

My husband, Bob, and I are addicted to the television Food Network. One of our favorite shows is "Rachael Ray's 30-Minute Meals" and stars its namesake, a bright, perky 30-something. This gal is catnip -- the Katie Couric of the kitchen -- and undoubtedly destined for one-name recognition like her celebrity sisters, Cher, Madonna and Oprah.

Bob doesn't pay much attention to what Rachael's cooking; he's there for her big brown eyes and wide-angle smile. Me, I'm there for her knife.

Rachael uses a Japanese-style santoku kitchen knife to chop, mince, dice, slice, peel and whack. A santoku, loosely translated as three virtues, is capable of cutting extremely thin slices and fine minces.

Often called a Japanese chef's knife, a santoku accomplishes the same tasks as a French-style chef's knife without the heavy blade typically needed for mincing.

I had to have one.

Rachael wields an all-steel Furi brand knife that I find cold and slippery in the hand. Instead, I bought a 7-inch Wusthof classic santoku. The blade is broad, and its cutting edge is minimally curved, almost flat, so it provides less rocking action than a European-style cook's knife. For straight-down slicing and precise chopping, however, it's superb.

I like the black, warm-to-the-touch polypropylene handle, the full tang (the steel is all one piece) and the traditional three rivets. Besides, it matches the other Wusthofs on our knife rack.

This is good industrial design. The alternating divots or "hollows" on the sides of the santoku knife create air pockets that cause food to fall away from the blade, rather than sticking to it, which allows you to chop or mince foods faster than with other knives. But watch out for your fingers.

In Japan, when iron was scarce, old-time metallurgists and blade makers had to learn to forge high-quality, multipurpose knives using the least amount of metal possible. The ingenuity of these metalworkers led to some of the most efficient designs in blades, from the samurai sword to the santoku knife.

What about keeping that sharp edge sharp? Norman Weinstein, chef-instructor in knife skills at The Institute of Culinary education in New York City said, "Don't confuse sharpening with honing. The santoku knife does need to be sharpened but for the average user this should be done but once a year, ideally by a professional cutler.

"The knife does, however, need to be honed [put on a steel] frequently. Unlike the standard Western chef's knives, the santoku's cutting edge is beveled at 17 degreees, not the usual 20 degrees. It must therefore be placed on the steel [honed] at 17 degrees. In my classes, I recommend that students hone their knives with practically every use to keep the edge keen. Three to four alternating strokes is generally enough."

We store our knives vertically on a magnetized wall rack, just a reach away from the cutting boards. Never store knives where they can bash against another in a drawer, or even in one of those butcher block knife sets, where the edge might be dulled. After using, wash the knife by hand and dry it off. And don't even consider putting a good knife in the dishwasher.

The santoku is now my go-to knife, and I use it more than any other. I bought mine at Williams-Sonoma for $89.95. Father's Day is coming. Start hinting now.

Around town

Ever wonder what happened to Gene Lichter? "Uncle Gene" was the roving Ambassador of Good Will at Benkovitz Seafood for 15 years, until he officially retired last August. Then he disappeared.

He and wife Renee now spend half the year in San Antonio, Texas, with their daughter, Nancy, and the other half in St. Petersburg, Fla., with daughter Susan. He keeps busy with museums, opera and cooking for the family. Says Uncle Gene, "I haven't worn a pair of socks since we came to Florida."

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Rhubarb Compote and Cream

The pretty pink compote offers a seasonal switch from applesauce beside savory dishes such as pork chops or roasted chicken. For dessert, tangy rhubarb makes a bright spring topping for ice cream, yogurt or plain cake. It is especially good on its own served with a generous fluff of whipped cream.

• 1 3/4 pounds bright red rhubarb, leaves discarded
  
• 1 cup sugar plus 3 tablespoons sugar
  
• 1-inch piece freshly peeled ginger, minced
  
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
  
• 1/3 cup sour cream
  
• 1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Trim the ends from the rhubarb, and cut crosswise into ³/₄-inch pieces (about 6 cups). Stir together the rhubarb and 1 cup sugar in a large saucepan. Let stand about 10 minutes until rhubarb releases some liquid.

Bring rhubarb mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat, simmer, stirring occasionally, until rhubarb has "broken down" but some whole pieces remain, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

Place ginger in a garlic press and squeeze over the rhubarb mixture until about 1 teaspoon of juice is released. Gently stir ginger juice into the rhubarb mixture. Allow to cool.

In a large bowl, whip heavy cream until soft peaks form. With the mixer running, gradually add 3 tablespoons sugar and beat until stiff peaks form. Fold in sour cream and vanilla.

Place rhubarb compote in clear serving dessert dishes or wine glasses. Top with sweetened whipped cream. Makes 4 servings.

"Everyday Food"