What a thrill it is to discover a jewel of a restaurant when you least expect it. I wandered into Ciao Baby, just off Market Square, with few expectations. There had been no hype and no buzz regarding this new Downtown eatery. I was there more out of curiosity to see what had become of the venue that previously housed Jamie's on the Square than in search of culinary excellence.

John Heller, Post-Gazette Managing partner Rick Gaetano, left, and chef/partner Mino Fazio have a winner in Ciao Baby. Click photo for larger image. Ciao Baby 435 Market St. Downtown 412-281-7400 Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; dinner 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 5-11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Basics: A happening place for lunch and a quiet retreat for dinner, serving exceptionally well-prepared Italian cuisine. Service fluctuates from totally professional to ultra-friendly, a bit on the casual side, depending on who you get. Comfortable noise level and vegetarian friendly. The chef is willing to adapt any entree to accommodate the tastes of the diner. Appetizers, $2.50-$11.95; dinner entrees, $16.95-$32.95; lunch entrees, $7.95-$11.95; desserts, $4.95; wines by glass, $5.50-$7.75. Summary: Smoking in bar with good evacuation system resulting in no smoke odors in dining room. Wheelchair accessible. Valet parking in evening only, $8. All major credit cards accepted except Carte Blanche. Reservations accepted.

But I knew Ciao Baby was going to be special from the moment I stepped inside. On a table behind the hostess was a giant floral arrangement of fabulous, fresh lilies, orchids and roses. Each table was decorated with a vase containing fresh and fragrant roses. Smiling waiters clad in long, bistro-style aprons served plates of colorful pastas and gorgeous salads. The room was literally bouncing with happy vibes. One look at the menu confirmed that lunch at Ciao Baby would be a special treat.

It was tough choosing between Stracciatella alla Romano and Tagliolini con Fagioli (both $3.95). I went for the lighter stracciatella, a fine consomme with feathery balls of beaten egg and fresh spinach. This simple soup can easily be ruined by a too-bland broth or by over-cooking or reheating the egg drops, rendering them tough. My soup was perfection. As a main course I had Mellenzane Rolletini ($5.95). The eggplant was sliced horizontally, sauteed in olive oil, rolled around a goat cheese stuffing and topped with a light plum tomato sauce. The result was Italian cuisine at its freshest, lightest best.

My companion had Rigatoni ala Vodka con Pollo ($8.95). The al dente pasta was complemented by a light tomato cream sauce, flambed with vodka and topped by slices of grilled chicken breast. Pasta dishes are served with a house salad of crisp field greens and cherry tomatoes with house dressing and BreadWorks ciabatta bread. Next time I want to try a Grillia Pollo Pannini ($8.95). This grilled chicken sandwich on Tuscan bread also features slices of prosciutto and roasted sweet red peppers and comes with a side of fried zucchini.

When we heard that the Italian-born chef made a mean Tiramisu ($4.95), we knew we had to try it. Lately, tiramisu has become a trite dessert that more often than not disappoints. Chef Mino's tiramisu was the real thing and possibly the best in Pittsburgh. Tiramisu means "pick me up" in Italian and this one does just that! Our total lunch tab for this excellent meal for two was $24.30. I left Ciao Baby glowing with pleasure at having discovered such a talented chef and welcoming environment around the corner from my office. I couldn't wait to return for dinner.

The dinner menu offers the same soups and an expanded list of appetizers. Although Zucchini Fritti ($5.95) is not very original, I guarantee you that it will be among the crispest and most satisfying of any you have ever had. Polpettine de Granchio ($10.95) are crispy crab cakes made with jumbo lump meat and no fillers. They come on a bed of baby greens. Insalata alla Cesare ($6.95) is a true, Italian Caesar salad with house- made dressing of fresh egg and anchovies. There are many pastas on the menu with various sauces. The Orecchiette ala Barese ($18.95) is a Southern Italy recipe that the chef learned from his grandmother. The "little ears" shaped pasta are served with a sauce of rappini, sausage, garlic and olive oil. From Verona there is Fettuccini con Fungi, Porcini, Tuna and Ruccola ($17.95). In addition to the tuna, mushrooms and arugula, there are chopped red and green tomatoes and a cognac cream sauce on the pasta. One of the more unusual entrees is D'Anatra con Frutta Fresca ($21.95). One half of a roasted duck, which has been marinated in herbs and wine before roasting, is served with a sauce made from red and blue berries and champagne. There is Bistecca al Fiorenttina ($27.95) for the low-carb crowd. This grilled prime sirloin steak weighs in at a whopping 23 ounces! There is veal, lamb and a variety of fish.

My own preference is for the simplest dishes with the fewest ingredients. Instead of halibut with clams, mussels, scallops, shrimp, arugula and plum tomatoes ($28.95), I would opt for the simple Salmon Grigliato ($21.95). Both are served with a house salad and vegetables and roasted potatoes.

The people behind this new enterprise are not unknown to the local restaurant crowd. Managing partner Rick Gaetano has been working in Italian restaurants Downtown for almost 20 years. Partner Rick Butts also has a long history with restaurants. They met chef/partner Mino Fazio when he came to Pittsburgh as executive chef at La Strada. Fazio is a native of Bari, Italy. His father was a professional chef who introduced him to cooking at an early age. When he was 16, Fazio began a four-year culinary training program in Italy and has been cooking in restaurants in Europe and in the United States ever since.

It's fortunate for Pittsburgh that he decided to open his own restaurant here. He and his partners have transformed the old space at 435 Market St. into a casual but elegant dining room and bar. Gone are the old banquettes and the black and white tile floors. Instead there are sage green walls and new tiles in subdued Tuscan colors. The handsome lighting fixtures, tables and chairs contribute to the comfortable ambiance. At dinner, the tables are covered in stiffly starched white linen.

Perusing the wine list, we found a wonderful Sardinian white, Vermentino Torremelito, 2002, for $22. The uninspiring Toscolo Chianti is $20. Other Italian reds are considerably more expensive. I'd love to see a more Italo-centric wine list. House wine is $5.50 a glass. Premium wines are priced from $6.50 for an Alsatian white to $7.75 for a California red.

Ciao Baby is a standout addition to our Downtown dining scene. Go for lunch to try Chef Mino's delightful cuisine, and I am sure you will want to return for dinner.

This is a serious Italian restaurant with a fun atmosphere.