While the Fifth and Forbes axis of Pittsburgh's center continues to crumble, another Downtown area that once was downtrodden is taking flight. The upper end of Penn Avenue near the Convention Center is booming. In January, Duquesne Light unveiled a new project that brightly illuminates 17 handsome buildings in the 800 and 900 blocks of Penn. Add to that the opening of the Marriott Courtyard Hotel, August Henry's Saloon and the Sonoma Grille and you have the nucleus of a hot destination we like to refer to as the "Convention District."

Alyssa Cwanger, Post-Gazette Sonoma Grille's managing partner Uriel Marcovitz, left, and owner/executive chef Yves Carreau stand behind, from bottom on large plates, Garam Masala Scented Lamb Loin, Shrimp Tempura and Sonoma Mixed Grille and Shrimp and Avocado Margaritta in glass, and an assortment of meat and seafood dishes on small plates. Click photo for larger image. Sonoma Grille 947 Penn Ave. Downtown 412-697-1336 Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. daily; bar menu 3-5 p.m.; dinner 5-11 p.m. daily. Basics: An attractive Downtown restaurant open 11 a.m.-11 p.m., serving modern grill cuisine with Asian and Latin twists. An extensive wine list of primarily West Coast American wines with 65 wines by the glass. Vegetarian friendly. Appetizers, $7-$9; entrees, $12-$19; desserts, $5-$8; wines by the glass, $6-$28. Summary: Smoking at bar or in lounge only. Powerful smoke evacuation fan. Wheelchair accessible. Valet parking, $8; self-parking in lot at 10th and Penn, $4. All major credit cards accepted. Reservations recommended at dinner.

T he newly opened Sonoma Grille is in a building that 50 years ago was a wholesale pharmaceutical company and more recently a mannequin dealer's shop. Chef/owner Yves Carreau is a Frenchman who studied his craft in France but left the country at age 20 to explore the world. After living and working in the Caribbean and California, he came to the Pittsburgh area as executive chef at the Churchill Valley Country Club in 1984. Eventually he opened his own restaurant, Asiago, in One Oxford Centre, Downtown.

Asiago's menu is a combination of French and Italian. Carreau got the urge to do a Pittsburgh restaurant that featured California grill cuisine. One could say that California cuisine is a melting pot: a spoonful of Latino, a dash of Caribbean, a cup of Asian and a sprinkle of Indian. In other words, full-fusion. The common denominator for California cuisine is more the freshness of the ingredients and the originality of the chef than it is any regional focus.

One look at the Sonoma menu confirms its California cuisine credentials. From Mexican jicama in the raita and the salads to Indian cardamom seeds in the red pepper coulis to purple Peruvian potatoes in the puree, Carreau takes an obvious pleasure in mixing his ingredient metaphors. This results in new and exciting taste experiences for the diner. Sonoma has also revised the normal Pittsburgh idea of portion size. Serving smaller portions at smaller prices gives the customer an opportunity to choose his own comfort level for meal quantity.

The tapas platter for two ($18) is in fact several platters that showcase a number of appetizers that, unfortunately, are not available a la carte. Although I enjoyed tasting the five assorted appetizers, I would love to order just the smoked salmon and ahi tuna tartare with wasabi vinaigrette or the lamb carpaccio with roasted eggplant and tahini. Having never before had lamb carpaccio, I was somewhat surprised to discover that I loved it. Wild mushroom flat bread ($9) contains shiitake, oyster and portobello mushrooms, oven-roasted tomatoes and chevre cheese and is sufficient for two normal appetites. I vastly prefer it to the eggplant flat bread ($8), on which the tapenade dominates all other flavors, and the eggplant almost disappears.

On the salad side, there is ceviche-inspired Shrimp and Avocado Margaritta ($9). This grown-up shrimp cocktail served in a martini glass has added chopped tomatoes, scallions, red onions and avocado and is dressed in a tequila, lime and cilantro vinaigrette. Don't miss it if you are a shrimp fan. The Sonoma Salad ($7) is a satisfying combination of baby greens and romaine, slices of pear, blue cheese and bacon dressed in Dijon vinaigrette. MediTerra Bakery's excellent breads are served with olive oil or butter.

Shrimp Tempura ($14) is served with a divine chutney made from blood orange puree and dried apricots. This comes with sesame-flavored Asian slaw made from cabbage, carrots and Napa cabbage. This light entree of the familiar tempura and the unfamiliar chutney embodies the kind of originality Carreau brings to his menu. The chef loves duck, and he offers his diners the ultimate duck experience with A Study of Duck ($19). This entree serves duck in three forms: seared breast with apple mango compote, duck confit tortellini with braised Napa cabbage and smoked duck breast slices with a baby green bean salad. The contrast of textures, temperatures and flavors in each duck presentation make this dish unforgettable. I also loved the porcini-dusted filet mignon ($19) served with grilled asparagus and scalloped potatoes spiked with a dash of saffron to take them out of the ordinary. This has to be the most reasonably priced filet mignon in town. The favorite of most diners is the Sonoma Mixed Grille ($12). This is a selection of 10 freshly grilled meat or poultry offerings that come with a choice of seven dipping sauces and either Asian-style stir-fry fresh vegetables or linguini with black olive, capers and anchovy sauce or fettuccine with tomato and basil sauce.

Vegetarians will find the sides menu has what they need for a memorable feast. Three pepper ratatouille ($4), Asian stir-fry vegetables ($4), and Haricots verts with oil and garlic ($6) are just a few of the vegetable possibilities.

But please save room for dessert. Sonoma is one of a handful of restaurants in Pittsburgh that have a pastry chef on site. Kelly Bannon makes ice creams and fresh fruit sorbets in addition to some killer pastries. My favorite is Cranberry and Pecan Tart ($7). Bannon has brilliantly added fresh cranberries to the traditional pecan tart recipe to cut the sweetness, and the result is a new taste treat that far outshines its roots. I am told that her cheesecake ($8) with Grand Marnier and candied orange peel is the public's favorite. If you were especially restrained when ordering dinner, you might want to try the Polynesian ($7). This adult version of a banana split consists of a coconut macaroon topped with pastry cream and caramelized bananas and complemented with fresh mango and pineapple.

One of the major attractions of Sonoma Grille is the wine list, and the 65 wines served by the glass. Wine is the passion of managing partner Uriel Marcovitz, and his devotion is evident in the extraordinary selection of primarily West Coast American wines. Many of them are not available in state stores. If you want Pittsburgh's ultimate experience in fine American wines served by the glass, Sonoma Grille is the place to go. Prices vary according to quality, with most in the $6 to $11 range. Marcovitz has weekly tastings with all the wait staff, who should be capable of guiding you through the extensive list. If you need the expert's advice, ask to speak with Marcovitz or his assistant manager, J.T. Campbell.

Sonoma Grille has a pre-theater fixed-price menu available on show nights from 5 to 7 p.m. The three-course dinner is $25.

Although the interiors of the restaurant are attractive and the tables, chairs and banquettes comfortable, I find the decor somewhat puzzling. The murals on the wall are pure Sonoma vineyards, but the awnings, fake windows and window boxes of dried flowers scream southern France. The framed black-and-white photographic art is of France and Italy. Maybe this is just more of the mixing metaphors philosophy. The tables are well spaced, and the noise level is very comfortable.

Wine and food lovers of the Pittsburgh region are sure to delight in the attractions of this newest star in the Downtown dining constellation.