EmailEmail
PrintPrint
Dining Review: Romance reigns at a trio of distinct restaurants
Friday, January 28, 2005

Americans love Valentine's Day. It's hearts and flowers time. Red roses and chocolates. Candlelight dinners for two. Romance is in the air.

Lake Fong, Post-Gazette
Jason Culp, left, and Mike Novak, executive chef/co-owner and co-owner, respectively, of The Pines Tavern, will work to make Valentine's Day special for diners.
Click photo for larger image.
And so is the need for reservations. Valentine's Day ranks with Mother's Day and New Year's Eve as one of the busiest days of the year for restaurants. If you are planning to dine out on that day, it would be advisable to make reservations now. And happy Valentine's Day from me to you.

Now, let's think about where you might want to dine with your own true love.

Hyeholde Restaurant was born out of a fairy tale love story. In 1931, William Kryskill brought his bride to Western Pennsylvania and promised to build her a castle on the crest of the cornfield where they stood. Hyeholde is that castle. The restaurant opened in 1938 and is today under the direction of Barbara McDenna, the Kryskills' daughter.

Dinner is served in the Great Hall, the West Room and the Library. Baronial fireplaces, gothic ceilings, stained glass windows and soft music make a perfect backdrop for modern-day knights in armor. Chef Chris O'Brien has designed a six-course menu with ample choices for each course. The price of the full dinner is determined by the main course selection. The Vegetarian Feast is $50. Filet of Beef is $69 and Poached Lobster is $75. Among the appetizer choices are raw kumomono oysters. The dessert menu lists six creations by pastry chef Erin Ribo. Baci Sundae for Two hits all the high spots on a single plate. A trio of housemade ice cream truffles is served with Brandy Caramel, three chocolate sauces and champagne-macerated raspberries in a bittersweet chocolate heart. All guests will be welcomed with a complimentary champagne punch. A glass of house sparkling is $6. Wines by the glass range from $6.50 for the house wine to $12 for a premium label. Bottles start at $40.

The Hyeholde is located on Coraopolis Heights Road in Moon. Dinner will be served from 4 to 10 p.m. on Feb. 14. The restaurant is a nonsmoking environment and is wheelchair accessible. 412-264-3116, www.hyeholde.com.

IN THE PINES

If a country inn is more your style, The Pines Tavern is a romantic choice. Situated on a winding country road in Pine, this warm and welcoming rural inn has been pleasing Pittsburgh palates since 1978. Partners Mike Novak and Jason Culp were in the avant-garde of the revolutionary movement of restaurants committed to using locally grown ingredients. Taking that philosophy a step further, Mike and Jason have planted several acres of gardens at the Tavern and produce heirloom vegetables in summer and exotic greens and herbs in a greenhouse on the property in winter.

Among the Valentine's Day specials Jason will be whipping up on an a la carte basis is a cauliflower souffle served with baby greens ($6), Rack of Elysian Fields Lamb in Pine Nut Mustard Crust ($32), and for dessert, Chocolate Lovers Delight ($9). The last is an orgy of chocolate treats, beginning with a miniature dark chocolate souffle, milk chocolate terrine, whipped chocolate mousse and white chocolate-covered strawberries. The Tavern will also be serving its normal a la carte menu which includes the likes of Lobster Bisque ($8), Duck Confit on Field Greens ($13) and Roasted Beet Salad ($6) in addition to a long list of main courses. It would be easy for a vegetarian to find appropriate dishes on this menu.

The Pines offers a flight of three white wines or three red wines, 3 ounces of each for $9.95. Wines by the glass are $6 to $11. Bottle prices start at $24. The wine list offers a particularly well thought out selection with many unusual labels worth trying. The house champagne cocktail which includes fresh raspberry puree is $7.

The Pines Tavern is at 5018 Bakerstown Road in Pine. It will serve lunch on Feb. 14 from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. Wheelchair accessible dining rooms are nonsmoking, smoking in bar. 724-625-3252. For directions, go to www.thepinestavern.com.

FRENCH CONNECTION

If your True Love has always wanted to go to Paris, you might consider dinner at the intimate, elegant and cosmopolitan Laforet. Chef Michael Uricchio has a classical European training and experience in top-rated kitchens abroad. His partner and brother, Robert Uricchio, manages the dining room in what once was a private residence in Highland Park. The beautiful room has well-spaced tables, heavy damask linens and lots of crystal and silver. The service is the finest in Pittsburgh.

The Uricchios will serve a six-course tasting menu for $70. Among the first-course selections are Belon oysters on the half shell. This is followed by soup or salad and then a fish course. After a refreshing grapefruit granita, the main course choices include beef filet with a Cognac truffle sauce. Dinner ends with a Valentine's Day Dessert Medley prepared by Laforet's pastry chef followed by a plate of petits fours and chocolates.

The Laforet wine list goes way beyond the ordinary and offers connoisseurs a chance to taste a variety of unusual wines. Prices by the bottle start at $25. A glass of house bubbly (Ste. Michelle) is $7.

Laforet is at 5701 Bryant St., Highland Park. Valentine's Day dinner will be served Feb. 12 as well as Feb. 14 from 5 to 10 p.m. 412-665-9000.

First published on January 28, 2005 at 12:00 am
Elizabeth Downer can be reached at edowner@post-gazette.com or 412-263-1454.
EmailEmail
PrintPrint