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Munch goes to Coca Cafe
Friday, November 05, 2004

This has been a tense time for Munch. Even a minor celeb such as Munch isn't inured to that Election Day/fate-of-the-free-world anxiety that's been pervading every corner of every life for months and months and miserable months.

 
 
 

Coca Cafe is at 3811 Butler St., Lawrenceville (412-621-3171).

 
 
 

So, for this column, Munch thought, "I should booze it up. Let it all hang out. Get drunk. Start a bar fight." Why? That's what mature citizens of the world do when politics get them down.

Whatever your political leanings, the election results may make you want to know a good place to get soused.

But, due to Halloween, there just wasn't time. Munch required coffee, not beer, to lubricate a meeting of the minds at Cafe Coca in Lawrenceville.

FOM works in a musty basement down the street from the cafe. On one of those impossibly sunny, warm days of late, she blinked her way into the sunlight to join Munch for lunch.

Loyal readers may recall that Munch has been to Cafe Coca before, years ago, for inky coffee and a big cookie and to seep up some of the retro funkiness that lacquered the place, making it shiny and smart.

Cafe Coca has changed hands since, and now it's less art house, more cafe -- though still arty. Now the cafe has better edibles and a rocking Sunday brunch -- such a rare thing on this side of the state.

It's still a bright and colorful place with a pretty patio. If you forgot your book, there are plenty of newsweeklies and fliers to read, and serious conversations of people with square glasses and metallic hair to eavesdrop on.

Munch and FOM grabbed a table for two on the shady side of the room -- the front tables are flooded with sun in the afternoon, on the rare days when sun is a problem -- and scanned the rectangular menu for something good to eat.

There were specials, too, on a big board out front. Because Munch and FOM like to go sharesies, we split a lovely little salad of spring greens draped with caramelized onions, dried blueberries and blueberry Stilton. Blueberry Stilton! It did wonderful things in Munch's mouth, as it's tart from cheese and from fruit, with a soft, crumbly texture.

Munch and FOM also went halvesies on sandwiches, ordering two and divvying them up between plates. The Black Forest ham wrap was warm, juicy and tightly bound. Apple butter was a creative, sweet touch.

Munch's choice, the grilled cheese panini, was not so engaging -- but two out of three ain't bad. Muenster, cheddar, jarlsberg and chevre are all mild cheeses. In melted state, on crusty focaccia, they needed more zip than pink tomatoes and a scattering of caramelized onions could provide. Creamy and texturally pleasing, the sandwich wasn't a bust.

Coca Cafe serves La Prima coffee, which is Munch's favorite kind. The cafe makes a respectable cappuccino, and Munch liked the cheery fuchsia straws that came bobbing in two ice waters.

Munch also liked the look of Cafe Coca's Sunday brunch and vows to try it. Who can resist the allure of the smoked salmon omelet, the apple cinnamon panini or vanilla orange yogurt with granola and fresh fruit?

Sometimes, a sunny seat and a steaming plate are better balm for a broken heart than booze.

First published on November 5, 2004 at 12:00 am