It all started -- like so many things -- with a wedding.

In October 1810, Crown Prince Ludwig of Bavaria married Princess Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen. The jamboree to mark their marriage was held at a large park on the royal grounds in downtown Munich, now known as the Theresianwiese (Therese's fields).

	Darrell Sapp, Post-Gazette Brewer Aran Madden checks the pH level of the latest 15-barrel batch at the Church Brew Works in Lawrenceville. Its Oktoberfest begins Sept. 24. Click photo for larger image.

In the days following the nuptials, there were horse races, shooting contests and general festivities -- all open to the Bavarian public. So much fun was had, officials decided the fete should be repeated yearly, every year except during wartime, right up until today.

In the beginning, it was an agricultural fair, which morphed over the years to include beer stalls. Munich is, and always has been, a big beer town; the people of Munich consume nearly twice as much beer as the rest of the country, according to Frommer's. In 1886, beer tents were erected for the festival at Theresienwiese, a k a die Wiesn -- the site to this day -- and it was official: Oktoberfest is a celebration of all things beer.

It is also an agrarian festival, close to the end of the harvest, which brings me to the answer to the perennial question: Why is the event called Oktoberfest when it begins in September? Simple: September's weather is warmer and more enjoyable -- better party weather -- and the start date of the festival is scheduled as close to the first day of autumn, Sept. 21, as possible. But the germinal event, Prince Ludwig's marriage, was in October -- hence Oktoberfest.

In Munich, more than 6 million visitors crowd 14 beer tents -- monumental temporary beer halls with steel frames and wooden floors -- consuming more than 6 million liters of beer. There are tents for massive spit-roasted oxen, tents for cigarettes and wine, tents for souvenirs, and primo tents for Munich's six lordly in-city breweries: Spaten, Paulaner, Hacker-Pshorr, Hofbrauhaus, Lowenbrau, Augustiner.

Munich, the mother of all Oktoberfests, attracts tourists from around the world. Sixty percent of Oktoberfest revelers are Munich locals, 15 percent hail from the outskirts of Munich, 15 percent come from other parts of Germany. The remaining 10 percent -- approximately 600,000 people -- are tourists of the world, joining in the celebration of beer.

DEUTSCHTOWN IN PITTSBURGH

Here in Pittsburgh, Penn Brewery hosts the largest and most authentic Oktoberfest in the city. Mary Beth Pastorius, who owns the brewery with her husband, Tom, says their Oktoberfest attracts the best of the Pittsburgh character, different people from different neighborhoods, backgrounds, ethnicities and walks of life, mingling at the long trestle tables, tankards in hand.

"The concept of a German beer hall appeals to everyone; it's a great social equalizer," Mary Beth Pastorius says. She describes the romances that bloomed at the celebration, the couples that held their rehearsal dinners at the brewery.

Penn Brewery's Oktoberfest is in its 16th year. Two weeks after opening the brewery, Tom Pastorius hung one small sign in the restaurant, announcing special Oktoberfest activities, and the turnout was, as Mary Beth puts it, "unbelievable." In recent years, more than 1,000 people per night taste Penn Brewery's Oktoberfest.

No wonder: Penn Brewery is conveniently located near the Pittsburgh neighborhoods most dense with those of German descent: Troy Hill, Spring Garden and Reserve. About 670,000 people in the greater Pittsburgh area -- one-third of the population -- are of German descent, according to recent U.S. Census data. We like our Oktoberfest; it's in our blood.

The buildings that house Penn Brewery are a collection of 19th-century breweries, Eberhardt & Ober. The brewery is on the National Register of Historic Places. Beer has been made on-site since 1848, and Penn Brewery beer is brewed in the German style, with Bavarian hops and a German brewmeister.

You might say it's the most authentically German Oktoberfest in town, that Penn Brewery has unique -- even fated -- ties to things German. But really, it is this: Germany is a country the Pastorious couple love. They lived there: Tom for 12 years, Mary Beth for eight. They return, collect recipes and turn that influence back out in Deutschtown, Pittsburgh, Pa.

Mary Beth still loves Oktoberfest after all these years, and her voice takes on a happy lilt when she speaks of it. "There's something magic about a crisp night and the stars, the German music, everyone having fun."

There's also something magical about brewing beer, that alchemal blend of yeast, water, hops, barley and time that yields such a diverse nectar. You feel kind of magical when you drink it, too, unless you drink too much.

Traditional Oktoberfest beer is a specific type of lager, a maerzen, light, malty and slightly sweet rather than hoppy. Maerzens are a bit higher in alcohol, which lends them a crispness that offsets their mellow, golden sweetness. It's a refreshing beer, ideal for a warm night, as accompaniment to a spicy grilled sausage, light enough to drink at 10 a.m., if you are so inclined (and in Munich. Noon is the earliest you can get it at local Oktoberfests).

In Munich, preparations for the next year's Oktoberfest start the second the current year's festival ends. At Penn Brewery there's a nine-month lull, until they start brewing Penn Oktoberfest in June or early July.

CHURCH BREW

At Church Brew Works, the Oktoberfest beer was brewed four weeks ago, and by the time its Oktoberfest celebration begins on Sept. 24, it will have aged for five. Church Brew Works has been making its Oktoberfest brew for eight years and throwing an Oktoberfest celebration for seven. This year, say sources at the brewery, is the best ever, as focus has shifted from music to food.

Martha Rial Penn Brewery owner Tom Pastorius, right, and head brewer Paul Shanta prepare for their 16th Oktoberfest. Click photo for larger image.

Church Brew Works schedules its Oktoberfest events a few weeks later than the others, so it doesn't clash with the schedules of Penn Brewery and Pittsburgh Brewing Company, located within a stone's throw, if you have a good arm. If you miss one, check Church Brew Works' dates. When overlap happens, parking is an issue, though not this year: Pittsburgh Brewing is taking its Oktoberfest celebration outdoors to Federal Street, North Side, drenching Hurricane Ivan remnants be damned.

This year, Church Brew Works will hang German flags from its soaring ceiling, and its special Oktoberfest menu has the malt worked on in creative ways: Celestial Gold (one of the brewery's regular beers) mustard dipping sauce for pretzels, beer-battered chicken, pumpkin maerzen ice cream, cinnamon lager sauce.

German music will be piped in, rather than featuring live bands, as do the other festivals. Where Penn Brewery's Oktoberfest menu of grilled and roasted meats is hearty, Church Brew Works' is refined: a pretzel-crusted, center-cut pork chop, green peppercorn spaetzle, a pizza built of the Germanic yet subtle flavors of caraway, Bergamer Swiss, sauerkraut and bratwurst.

The Oktoberfest beer and menu will be available at lunch and dinner, in the dining room and at the bar, and festivities are spread over 10 continuous days at the Church Brew Works. It's a festival that is intimate where the others are kinetic -- for those who want to experience Oktoberfest at their own table. On average, Church Brew Works draws 200 extra heads per night to the restaurant, on weekends.

What do we think when we think about Oktoberfest? Mugs and foam, pretzels and brats, dirndls and lederhosen? Apparently, calf biting is quite popular in Munich (that's the calf of your leg, not a baby cow). You won't find much of this in Pittsburgh, but you will find some fine beer and some frisky party-goers.

IN THE CITY

Here's all the information you need to plan a day of tasting all the Pittsburgh Oktoberfests. Start out sipping early at the Church Brew Works. Its Oktoberfest is from Sept. 24 through Oct. 3, during regular business hours. Doors open, on weekends, at 11:30 a.m. The restaurant is at 3525 Liberty Ave. in Lawrenceville (412-688-8200). There's a nightly raffle of Church Brew Works merchandise and gift certificates.

Then head over to the North Side to Pittsburgh Brewing Company's Iron City Oktoberfest on Federal Street, North Side, today from 4 to 11 p.m. and Saturday noon to 11 p.m. only. Tonight, Alpen Glow will play from 5 to 7:30; the Alpen Sohuh Platters Dancers will perform from 7:30 to 8 and The Baron's Band from 8 to 11. Saturday, Mad Bavarian plays from 3 to 5 p.m., Alpen Glow Band from 5 to 7:30 p.m., the Isartaler Bavarian Club Dancers perform from 7:30 to 8 p.m. and The Baron's Band plays from 8 to 11 p.m. Admission is free.

End up at Penn Brewery on one of two weekends, today through Sunday and Sept. 24-26 (5 p.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays, 4 p.m. to midnight Sundays). The brewery is at 800 Vinial St., North Side (412-237-9402). German bands Alpen Glow and Heimat Klang will perform nightly.

OKTOBERFEST HOPPING

Feel like heading to the fields -- or at least out of the concrete jungle -- for some Oktoberfest action? Want to experience some of the traditional events of Oktoberfest -- costumes, parades, rifles, an Oktoberfest Mass -- not to be found at our urban fetes? Try these festivals:

Pennsylvania Bavarian Oktoberfest: Pike Street, Canonsburg (today through Sunday). Call the chamber of commerce at 724-745-1812 for information. The event is held in downtown Canonsburg, and it's billed as one of the premier Bavarian festivals in the country, with 45,000 visitors every year.

This year, featured bands are the PovertyNeck Hillbillies, Mad Bavarian, Augsburg German Band, Mon Valley Push, Herman Helay. Oh, and --this being Western Pennsylvania -- there will be fireworks.

Bedford Oktoberfest: German food, music and beer indicates a celebration of all things German. Old Bedford Village, Bedford (Saturday and Sunday). Call 1-800-238-4347. Those folk sporting lederhosen are admitted for free.

Erntefest Harvest Festival: In Old Economy Village, Ambridge (Sept. 25). Call 724-266-1803 for details.

Evans City Oktoberfest: You got your crafts, your German food, a parade, a car cruise (today through Sunday). Call 724-538-8126.

See you there.