When Georgia Sauer was the style editor of the Post-Gazette in the 1990s, she and food editor Suzanne Martinson spent many a lunch sampling and talking about food -- especially the Greek food Sauer grew up with. Sauer, who now lives in St. Louis, couldn't believe Martinson had the audacity to have a Greek feast -- and recipe taste tests -- for two Olympics Food sections without her. Sauer was placated by being asked to share her traditions of growing up Greek.

Bill Wade, Post-Gazette Semolina and Almond Cake Click photo for larger image. Festivals have homemade Greek food If you don't feel like cooking, but want to eat homemade Greek food, here are two upcoming festivals serving traditional dishes: Today through Aug. 22 -- 21st annual Greek Food Festival, Presentation of Christ Greek Orthodox Church, 1575 Electric Ave., East Pittsburgh. Sept. 1 to 5 -- Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church, 302 W. North Ave., North Side. For details, see the Nibbles Tips for working with phyllo

I was born on the southernmost tip of Greece on the Mediterranean Sea, in a town called Kalamata. You food lovers out there who eat Greek salads are probably familiar with the word -- it is the name of the spicy black olives with a slit on the side, which real Greek salads can't be made without.

Kalamata is where much Greek food is exported to the world: olives, of course; olive oil; feta cheese; dried figs; grape leaves; and wine.

My father, Peter, was in the import/export business there, before we moved to America when I was an infant. I grew up in Rock Island, Ill., a town on the Mississippi River where there was no feta cheese in the grocery stores -- forget about Kalamata olives.

There was a Greek Orthodox church, though, where the parishioners shared Greek groceries from trips to Chicago, about a three-hour drive away.

Even today, when I visit my mother, Angelique, I stop at the Greek or Italian grocery in St. Louis to buy a few pounds of the "good" feta -- the kind that is imported from Greece or Bulgaria or France in huge vats of brine -- not the grocery store variety packaged in little plastic bins. And I always buy a pound, at least, of phyllo dough, which is a staple in Greek kitchens for making tiropita and spanakopita. Phyllo is sold in the frozen food sections of virtually all grocery stores these days, but the kind I buy has never been frozen, so the tissue-thin sheets of dough are perfect -- not dried or broken, as much of the frozen phyllo is when it is defrosted.

Besides phyllo, feta, olive oil and wine, staples in a Greek kitchen are oregano, garlic, onions and lemons. But my mother, who was determined to become Americanized, integrated Greek and American foods when I was growing up. For instance, she made hamburgers for us, but she always put a little bit of oregano in the meat patties first. (She never bought ground beef at the market, by the way; she would choose a lean cut of meat and ask the butcher to grind it for the burgers.)

I never had a hot dog at home.

We called our version of french fries "Greek fries." Mom cut the potatoes in round disks, fried them in a big black cast-iron skillet with a little bit of oil, and then doused them with lemon while they were still hot. Delicious. Our two sons loved them, too, although they added ketchup.

Holidays are probably the best example of our Greek American way. To this day, our Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners include the traditional turkey and sweet potatoes and cranberry sauce, but also pastitsio, a kind of Greek lasagna, and cheese-filled tiropita for appetizers. The smell of nutmeg, an ingredient in pastitsio, will forever remind me of Christmas.

On Christmas morning, after unwrapping the gifts, we have a huge American brunch of scrambled eggs, bacon, cinnamon coffee cake, banana bread and fruit salad to tide us over 'til dinner.

But when I was young, we also had a homemade Greek sausage called loukaniko, which my sister's mother-in-law made and had cured in some mystical way that is rarely replicated today.

Whenever I am complimented that I am a good cook, I say you would be, too, if you had my mother.

Except for oatmeal chocolate chip cookies, I had never cooked before I was married. I got my first Greek recipe from my mom a few months after I was married, when I was giving my first dinner party in Chicago. I phoned Mom and got the recipe for moussaka, the eggplant dish, which is still the staple if you come to dinner at my house for the first time.

Bill Wade, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette Greek Potatoes Click photo for larger image.

The only recipe she wouldn't teach me on the phone was how to make kourembrethes, a melt-in-your-mouth butter cookie covered in powdered sugar, which is my husband Mark's favorite. Mom said you have to "feel" the batter, and she was right. Mom's version is so light that hers is the gold standard at our church's bake sale.

But probably my favorite Greek food is also the simplest. The first time I returned to Greece, as a college graduation gift from my parents, I visited my Uncle George and Aunt Alexandra in the little village of Arfara where my dad was born. Everything I ate there was grown or made by my aunt and uncle: the cheese, olives, wine, bread, almonds, figs, chicken and eggs.

Since they knew I loved milk, which Greek children don't usually drink, they even had goat's milk in their tiny refrigerator for me (I drank it to be polite). My favorite dish there was what I called Greek eggs -- scrambled eggs in a tomato/onion/garlic sauce with melted feta cheese.

Another simple Greek food my dad used to have is what we called Dad's Specialty -- feta cheese, a little bit of olive oil, oregano and lemon juice smooshed up, which he ate with good, crusty bread.

My favorite salad to this day is the Greek horiatiki salad, which means country salad. It is simply tomatoes, Kalamata olives, cucumber, onions and oregano, drizzled with olive oil and vinegar. It is made in the summer, when the tomatoes are ripe.

Both of those simple dishes need good, crusty bread -- also a staple in a Greek household -- made with no sugar or oil, just flour, water and yeast. I never remember a dinner without bread and red wine on the table, and fruit for dessert -- fresh in the summer and canned in the winter.

Americans assume that Greeks always have baklava for dessert, but sweets like baklava are usually made only for guests at your house, or to take to a friend's house when invited for dinner.

Oh, and when someone stops by your house, even unexpectedly, you always offer them something to drink -- and something to eat. I have never seen my relatives in Greece or my mother here drink without having a little meze, too -- at least a piece of cheese and a cracker scrounged up from the pantry.

Lately I feel as though I have come full circle. My favorite dish when I was growing up -- and now my younger son Alex's and my older son's wife Amanda's -- is chicken oregano, which my mom told me how to make over the phone.

Alex phoned last spring from law school asking me how to make it. And Amanda, who recently moved to St. Louis with our son Peter, wants to learn how to make it. And so it goes.

GEORGIA'S TIROPITA

• 1 pound phyllo
  
• 1 pound unsalted butter
  
• Filling:
  
• 24-ounce container large- curd cottage cheese, well- drained
  
• 16-ounce package feta cheese (domestic feta is fine)
  
• 2 tablespoons dry parsley
  
• 2 eggs

Combine filling ingredients. Cut stack of phyllo sheets into long strips 2 inches wide (the width of the phyllo box if you want them larger). Put a teaspoon of filling on the end and fold into a triangle as you would an American flag. Keep folding until the end of strip; cement end with a bit of butter.

Bake in a 350-degree oven for 20 minutes, or until brown, but start watching at 15 minutes. Makes about 75 triangles.

Note: Because the hand-work in creating individual tiropita is so time-consuming, Georgia sometimes makes a luncheon dish, rather than individual servings. In this dish, the filling is sandwiched, top and bottom, between eight sheets of buttered phyllo and baked in a 9-by-13-inch pan until brown. Bake in 350-degree oven for approximately 30 minutes. Watch!

Angela Booras, Rock Island, Ill.

PASTITSIO (BAKED MACARONI)

There are more complicated recipes for Pastitsio, but we chose this one. It's from the famed Nationality Rooms cookbook. -- Arlene Burnett

• 1 pound macaroni
  
• 1 large onion
  
• 1 clove garlic, grated
  
• 1/4 pound butter
  
• 2 pounds ground beef
  
• Salt and pepper
  
• Cinnamon, to taste
  
• 4 tablespoons tomato paste
  
• 1/2 cup hot water
  
• 9 eggs, divided
  
• 2 cups Romano or parmesan cheese, grated
  
• 1/4 pound butter, melted
  
• 1/2 cup flour
  
• 3 cups cold milk

Boil macaroni until tender. Drain and place in a large bowl, set aside. Grate the onion and garlic. Melt butter in a large skillet. Add the onion and garlic, cook until tender but not brown. Add the ground beef and saute, stirring constantly while breaking up large chunks of meat with a fork until meat is browned. Add salt, pepper and ground cinnamon (we used 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon). Stir together the tomato paste and hot water. Stir the tomato mixture into the ground meat and cook until liquid is absorbed. Set aside.

Whisk together 3 eggs. Pour the eggs over the macaroni and mix. Add the cheese and mix again. Spread half of the macaroni mixture in a large baking pan. Whisk 1 egg and mix into the ground meat mixture. Spread this over the macaroni. Place the remaining macaroni over the ground meat.

Melt the remaining butter in a pot. Add the flour and whisk until smooth. Continue whisking while gradually adding the milk. Cook until mixture is well blended. Remove from heat and cool about 5 minutes. Beat the remaining eggs. Whisk the eggs slowly into the milk mixture. Pour over macaroni. Bake for about 45 minutes in a preheated 375-degree oven or until golden brown on top. (We crisped it a bit under the broiler.) Serve hot.

"Nationality Rooms Recipe Book," University of Pittsburgh -- Pastitsio

GREEK POTATOES

Do not chop the potatoes too thin, because otherwise the stirring may break them up. Because we had oregano growing in the herb garden, we used 1 teaspoon dry and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano. This is a delicious dish with the flavors of Greece. -- Jim Heinrich

• 7 medium or 5 large russet potatoes, in 1/2-inch slices
  
• 1/3 cup lemon juice
  
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano
  
• 2 heaping tablespoons chopped garlic
  
• 1/2 cup olive oil
  
• Salt to taste

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place potatoes in a 2-quart deep baking dish. Mix lemon juice, garlic, oregano and olive oil. Add to potatoes and mix well. Salt liberally. Cover and bake.

Every 15 or 20 minutes, using a large spoon, baste potatoes with olive oil mixture and stir them thoroughly. Cook for 75 to 90 minutes (the longer time will mean crispier potatoes).

SHRIMP AND FETA STEW

This recipe also works with any firm-fleshed fish -- just cut fish into 1-inch pieces. The cooking time should be about the same. -- Samantha Bennett

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
  
• 1/2 small onion, chopped
  
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  
• 1 cup diced tomatoes with juice, plus 1/2 cup water
  
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
  
• 1/2 teaspoon chopped oregano
  
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
  
• 1 1/2 pounds large shrimp, peeled and deveined
  
• 4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
  
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
  
• 1 tablespoon ouzo or Pernod (optional)

Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Saute onion 5 minutes, until soft. Add garlic and cook 1 minute more. Add tomatoes, water, wine, oregano and salt. Cook 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until mixture thickens.

Add shrimp to skillet, cook 2 or 3 minutes until just cooked through. Stir in cheese, parsley and ouzo, if using. Serve immediately.

"Atkins Nutritionals: Food & Recipes"

SEMOLINA AND ALMOND CAKE

This is a delicious, authentic Greek dessert, but without all the super-sweetness we've come to expect from such honey-coated specialties as baklava. -- Suzanne Martinson

• 2 1/3 cups granulated sugar, divided
  
• 3 cups cold water
  
• 1 small stick cinnamon
  
• 4 whole cloves
  
• Zest of 1 orange
  
• 14 tablespoons unsalted butter
  
• 6 eggs
  
• 2/3 cup all-purpose flour
  
• 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons fine semolina
  
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
  
• 3/4 cup blanched almonds, finely chopped
  
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  
• 2 tablespoons brandy
  
• Blanched almonds for garnish

Combine 1 1/3 cups of the sugar with the cold water in a saucepan and simmer over low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Then, add the cinnamon stick, cloves and orange zest and simmer for another 15 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick and cloves and allow to cool.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the butter in a bowl and beat until soft and light with an electric beater or hand whisk. Slowly add the remaining 1 cup sugar, then add the eggs individually, beating thoroughly after each addition. In another bowl, sift the flour, semolina and baking powder together. Add the chopped almonds and mix well. Gradually add this mixture to the batter, beating continuously. Finally, add the vanilla and brandy to the mixture and pour into a buttered 9-by-13-inch rectangular baking pan.

Bake for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and score the cake into diamond shapes with a sharp knife. Spoon the cooled syrup over the cake and allow to cool. Decorate each portion with a blanched almond.

Makes about 18 portions.

"Modern Greek: 170 Contemporary Recipes from the Mediterranean" by Andy Harris

OLIVE BREAD

This bread is easy, even for the beginner. If you like, the dough can be made into rolls. It's richly delicious. -- Suzanne Martinson

• 2 packets fast-acting dry yeast
  
• 1 teaspoon sugar
  
• 2 1/2 cups warm water, divided
  
• 9 cups all-purpose flour
  
• 4 teaspoons salt
  
• 5 tablespoons olive oil
  
• 1 tablespoon dried mint
  
• 1 yellow onion, peeled and chopped
  
• 15 black olives, pitted and roughly chopped (we used kalamata)

Dissolve yeast, sugar and 1 1/2 cups of the water in a bowl. Combine the flour, salt and olive oil in a mixing bowl. Stir in the mint and onion. Add the yeast mixture and remaining 1 cup water and mix into a dough. Turn onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 minutes.

Add the olives and knead for a few more minutes. (We inadvertently added our olives with the onions, and they were quite small pieces in our bread.) Place in a lightly oiled bowl, cover and leave for 1 to 1 1/2 hours or until doubled in size.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Knead again and then divide the dough in half if making into 2 loaves; otherwise divide it into 12 pieces to make rolls. (We made 1 loaf of bread and divided the other half of the dough into 8 rolls, which were plenty large.) Shape pieces of dough into loaves or rolls.

Place the loaves or rolls on oiled baking sheets (we slit the tops about 1/2-inch deep with a sharp knife) and bake for 40 minutes or until the loaves or rolls are golden brown and give off a hollow sound when tapped. Eat either hot or cold.

Makes 2 loaves or 12-16 rolls

"Modern Greek: 170 Contemporary Recipes from the Mediterranean" by Andy Harris

HUMMUS

The night before I moved into my new home, my new friend Robert told me he would bring dinner over since everything was packed. The meal came from (the now closed and dearly missed) Bachri's in Castle Shannon. It included an order of hummus and pita, my first ever. Six months later, love blossomed and Robert and I were planning our wedding. Out of necessity, I had to learn how to make hummus, because every time I turned around, Robert was buying it at the grocer's. Out came the food processor and the quest for perfect hummus began. I have tried many recipes since that summer 10 years ago, but this basic recipe remains my favorite. -- Rosa Colucci

• 1/4 teaspoon salt
  
• 1 clove of garlic
  
• 2 tablespoons tahini paste
  
• 2 tablespoons of olive oil
  
• 1 15-ounce can of garbanzo beans, drained, reserve 3 tablespoons juice
  
• 2 or 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  
• 1/4 teaspoon parsley
  
• 1/4 teaspoon cumin

In a food processor, with the chopping blade, mix the salt, garlic, tahini and olive oil until smooth. Add the beans alternately with the lemon juice and bean juice until mixed smooth but thick. Add cumin and parsley; add more salt if necessary. Serve in a shallow bowl, smooth the top and garnish with drizzled olive oil and a carrot slice. Can be served with pita bread or as part of a vegetable platter. Makes almost 2 cups.

SPINACH AND CHEESE PIE APPETIZERS

My husband works with Beth Georgeou, whose husband, Lucky, was born in Greece. She says almost every Greek family has its own version of a spinach pie. This one is from "Greek Cuisine" by Vefa Alexiadou. "My mother-in-law has this exact same cookbook -- only written in Greek." she says. Beth suggested an "American" spinach pie appetizer that takes out all of the difficulty. It substitutes premade freezer phyllo cups for homemade or store-bought phyllo. Greek family variations include omitting cream, using part ricotta cheese in place of some of the feta, using fewer eggs or changing seasonings. Dry seasonings can be used. Beth likes the "kick" from 2 teaspoons of Pampered Chef's Dill Mix. -- Jane Miller

• 2 pounds spinach (2 16-ounce boxes, frozen)
  
• 8 fresh spring onions, finely chopped
  
• 1/2 cup finely chopped dill
  
• 1/2 cup chopped parsley
  
• 1 pound feta cheese, crum- bled
  
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
  
• 5 or 6 eggs, lightly beaten
  
• 1/4 cup melted butter
  
• Salt and pepper
  
• Individual phyllo cups

Blanch and drain spinach. Squeeze out all water, pressing between palms of hands. Put in a bowl with the rest of the filling ingredients and mix well. Fill individual cups and bake at 350 degrees until crust is golden, approximately 10 to 12 minutes for small cups.

Serve hot or cold. Filled phyllo cups may be frozen. Thaw before baking.

Recipe adapted from "Greek Cuisine" by Vefa Alexiadou

HORIATIKI SALAD

We combined romaine with some fresh green leaf lettuce, used both green and red peppers and very generous amounts of feta, sliced cucumbers and fresh tomatoes from our garden. -- Barbara Vancheri

• 4 ounces feta cheese
  
• 1 red or green bell pepper
  
• 1 English cucumber, sliced
  
• 5 tomatoes, chopped
  
• Handful black olives
  
• 1 head romaine lettuce, dark green outer leaves re- moved, in bite-sized pieces
  
• 1 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
  
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
  
• Salt
  
• Freshly ground black pepper
  
• Olive oil and red wine vinegar for dressing

Assemble cheese and vegetables in a large bowl. Sprinkle with oregano, salt and pepper. Drizzle with oil and vinegar and serve.

Serves 4.

Adapted from "Modern Greek" by Andy Harris

CHOCOLATE CAKE(KEIK SOKOLATAS)

The ingredients were listed by tea-cup measure and using the metric system, and we used the "Food Lover's Companion" to Americanize it. -- Kathleen Ganster

• Cake:
  
• 2 1/2 cups flour
  
• 1 cup butter
  
• 3/4 cup cocoa
  
• 2 cups sugar
  
• 6 eggs
  
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
  
• 1 cup milk
  
• Glaze:
  
• 1 cup icing sugar (confection- ers' sugar)
  
• 2 egg yolks
  
• 4 1/2 ounces bakers chocolate
  
• 2 teaspoons brandy
  
• 1 teaspoon milk
  
• 2 tablespoons fresh butter

Place the cake ingredients in a mixing bowl. Mix lightly and then beat with a mixer for 4 or 5 minutes. The batter should be frothy. Pour into buttered cake tin and bake in moderate oven for about 1 hour. (We used a bundt pan and baked in a 350-degree oven.)

When the cake has cooled, turn out onto a platter. Meantime, prepare the glaze. Melt the chocolate in the top of a double boiler. Add remaining ingredients and mix well. Pour glaze over the cake. (We decorated with black-eyed Susans.)

"Cyprus Cooking" recipes recorded by George Vyras

LAMB KEBABS

These are fun to make on the grill, and quick. But watch the chile flakes -- they can be quite spicy. -- Suzanne Martinson

• 10 ounces leg of lamb (boned), trimmed and cubed
  
• 1 tablespoon chile flakes
  
• Salt
  
• Freshly ground black pepper
  
• Olive oil for basting

Soak wooden skewers in cold water until ready to use. Thread the lamb cubes onto the skewers. Sear the kebabs on a hot barbecue or under the broiler. Sprinkle with the chile flakes and season with salt and pepper. Baste with a little olive oil and cook, turning frequently, for about 10 to 15 minutes.

Serve hot.

Serves 4.

Tester's note: These can be quite spicy if you use all the chile flakes.

"Modern Greek: 170 Contemporary Recipes from the Mediterranean" by Andy Harris

JOHNNA'S LEMON-FETA CHICKEN

This is a light refreshing and colorful dish was originally called Fantastic Feta Chicken, but I adapted it over several years and now call it my own. In the spring and summer, serve it with a green salad. In the fall and winter, use a heavier side dish such as pasta or rice. -- Johnna A Pro

• 4 boneless chicken breasts (cut in half)
  
• 4 tablespoons extra light olive oil, divided
  
• 2 or 3 medium lemons, sliced thin
  
• 4 to 6 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
  
• Fresh parsley

Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high heat and saute chicken breasts for a few minutes on each side until golden brown. (Use more oil if you need to).

Place a layer of lemon slices in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Place the chicken on top and tuck remaining lemon slices around the chicken. Sprinkle generously with feta cheese and parsley. Drizzle lightly with remaining olive oil, and if you like, squeeze a few drops of lemon juice on it, too. Bake uncovered at 350 degrees for 40 to 45 minutes.

Note: The beauty of this dish is that it's virtually impossible to ruin because all amounts are really to taste. (In my house, you cant' have too much feta!) If you are serving a large number of people you can even gently layer and tuck chicken, lemon, feta and parsley in the baking dish. For our Greek Fest, we bought two bags of the frozen chicken breasts and cut them into 30 smaller pieces.

GREEK MACARONI SALAD

As we pondered what to bring to this Greek dinner, the mailman arrived with the Taste of Homes magazine. It was our lucky day. The August/September edition has a recipe for Greek Macaroni Salad. Even something as simple and American as macaroni salad can be made "Greek" if it has olives and feta cheese. -- Jane Miller

• 1 cup uncooked elbow macaroni
  
• 4 medium plum tomatoes, chopped
  
• 15-ounce can garbanzo beans or chickpeas, rinsed and drained
  
• 1 medium onion, chopped
  
• 6-ounce can pitted ripe olives, drained
  
• 4-ounce package (crumbled feta cheese
  
• 1 teaspoon salt
  
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  
• 1 garlic clove, minced
  
• 1/2 cup olive oil
  
• 1/4 cup lemon juice

Cook macaroni according to package directions; drain and rinse in cold water. In a large bowl, combine the macaroni, tomatoes, beans, onions, olives, feta cheese, salt, pepper and garlic. In a small bowl, whisk oil and lemon juice. Pour over salad and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate until chilled. Stir before serving. Makes 8 servings.

Taste of Home recipe from Cheryl Maczko, Arthurdale, W.Va.

GREEK COOKIE BARS

These triangular cookies are delicious enough to fight over. -- Rebecca Sodergren

• Base:
  
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
  
• 1/4 cup sugar
  
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
  
• 3/4 cup butter or margarine, softened
  
• Topping:
  
• 2 tablespoons sugar
  
• 2 teaspoons cinnamon
  
• 2/3 cup light corn syrup
  
• 2 tablespoons honey
  
• 4 teaspoons lemon juice
  
• 1 tablespoon butter or margarine, melted
  
• 2 eggs
  
• 2 cups chopped walnuts
  
• Glaze:
  
• 1 cup confectioners' sugar
  
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  
• 2 teaspoons honey
  
• 1 to 3 tablespoons water

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease 13-by-9-inch pan. Lightly spoon flour into measuring cup; level off. In large bowl, combine all base ingredients. Beat 2 minutes at low speed or until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Press in bottom of greased pan. Bake 20 to 25 minutes or until set.

Meanwhile, in same bowl, combine all topping ingredients except walnuts. Beat 1 minute at medium speed or until well blended. Stir in walnuts. Spread evenly over partially baked base. Bake an additional 20 to 25 minutes or until set. Cool 10 minutes. Run knife around sides of pan to loosen. Cool 50 minutes.

In small bowl, combine all glaze ingredients, adding enough water for desired drizzling consistency; blend until smooth. (Be careful to add just a little water at a time and not to get the glaze too runny.) Drizzle over cooled bars. Let stand 15 minutes or until glaze is set. Cut bars lengthwise into 4 sections. Cut crosswise into 5 sections. Cut each bar in half diagonally to form triangles.

The Gourmet Connection Magazine

SCRAMBLED EGGS AND TOMATOES

If you've been up all night watching the Olympics, this would make a great midnight snack -- or breakfast. -- Suzanne Martinson

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
  
• 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped
  
• 1 teaspoon sugar
  
• Salt
  
• Freshly ground black pepper
  
• 4 eggs, beaten

Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat and add the tomatoes (we like to remove most of the seeds), sugar, salt and pepper. Cook the mixture for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until all the liquid has evaporated and the mixture has reduced to a thick consistency. Add the eggs and stir constantly until set. Serve immediately in the pan or transfer to a dish.

Serves 2.

"Modern Greek: 170 Contemporary Recipes from the Mediterranean" by Andy Harris