On The Table last week visited three restaurants that offer rare, off-the-street outdoor dining. This week we complete the list with three more spots. Each has unparalleled outdoor space far from traffic, fumes and noise. Each has a unique quality and features a different food experience.
The Cafe at the Frick
This spot has the distinct advantage of sitting in the midst of a Pittsburgh Landmark garden, The Frick Art and Historical Center. Where else could one dine overlooking lush manicured lawns and pristine flower beds with a Victorian mansion and a crystal palace greenhouse as a backdrop? The Cafe at the Frick wins hands down as this city's greatest entry in the fresh-air dining category. Unfortunately, it is open only for lunch and tea.
The Cafe menu changes often. Chef Susie Treon is committed to using local produce and even grows the herbs for her kitchen on the property. Her creative combinations of fruits, vegetables, greens, grains and herbs make the salad plates very attractive. Taking advantage of summer produce, The Cafe menu has a salad of greens and three different melons with prosciutto, white farm cheese and a minty citrus vinaigrette. The chef has borrowed a Vietnamese idea to make a unique summer sandwich. Using a large Boston Bibb lettuce leaf as a wrap, she fills it with pulled pork, slices of crisp, raw jicama and spiced peaches. Topped with a sauce of mixed red berries, this red and green presentation is as pretty as the flowers blooming around the patio. Treon's version of a tuna sandwich is poached fresh tuna salad served on sesame semolina bread with tomato and arugula. (Salads and sandwiches are all $11.)
The Cafe is one place where I never skip dessert ($6). The dessert case inside the restaurant displays up to nine choices, all made in house and all worth the calories. The seasonal fruit crustatas, so like those of Southern France, are my summertime favorites. Wines and cocktails are available. The Bellini ($7), champagne with California white peach puree, is a special treat. After 3 p.m., The Cafe serves high tea ($16) complete with tea sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and assorted pastries.
Andora
Andora, in Ohio Township, turned what was once a horseshoe pit into a charming patio that seats 80. The two-tiered space with an oversized fountain providing soothing sounds and pots of flowers adding a colorful touch makes this a relaxing place to enjoy Andora's modern American cuisine, including the extravagant "colossal shrimp encrusted with coconut and macadamia nuts" ($9). These beauties bear little resemblance to any other coconut shrimp I've encountered. They are indeed colossal in both size and taste.
My editor loved the zucchini ribbons fried and rolled around a trio of cheeses then baked in a roasted red pepper cream sauce ($6). We also sampled the highly acclaimed Andora crab cake. This baked, not fried, cake is entirely lump meat crab with almost no binding. The spicy red onion and caper sauce brings a new zip to this standby ($25). Pan-seared halibut with sweet and sour mandarin orange glaze ($17) was not a total success. The glaze was more sweet than sour; the flavor overpowered the delicateness of the fish.
Although desserts here come from outside the restaurant, there are ample temptations. I can recommend the Chocolate Turtle Cake ($5), a rich chocolate concoction with a gooey caramel center, served with vanilla ice cream. The commendable policy of offering a choice of 20 wines at $20 each makes finding an affordable beverage an easy task. Beer drinkers will appreciate the long list of domestic and imported brews ($3-$5.50).
The Church Brew Works
Where but in Pittsburgh might one find a microbrewery in a historic church? The former St. John the Baptist Church in Lawrenceville was deconsecrated in 1993 and opened as The Church Brew Works in 1996. Winning an award for this highly unusual reuse of a historical building from Pittsburgh History and Landmarks Foundation, this was the first brewery in America to be housed in a church. It is so unusual that it has always been on my list of essential "sights" to show out-of-town visitors.
The Hop Garden, an enclosed patio in the shadow of the church bell tower, reminds me of a genuine European "biergarten." The menu offers the traditional mix of entrees in the meat, fish and pasta categories in addition to a pub menu featuring sandwiches and wood-fired brick oven pizzas. I suggest that the real strength of the Church Brew Works lies in its pizza and beer menu. The 14-inch pies have a chewy but not too thick crust and some unusual fillings. How about a Pittsburgh Pierogi Pizza ($11.95) filled with potato puree, sauteed onions, garlic and cheddar cheese? I like the purity and restraint of Garden Plum Tomato Pizza ($11.95), which is topped with fresh plum tomatoes, fresh basil and mozzarella. The selection of hardwoods used in the oven gives these artisanal pies a unique flavor. Partnered with handcrafted beers and consumed out of doors, these pizzas are the embodiment of summer dining.
The brewer makes two lagers and two ales on site. The award-winning Pious Monk Dunkel lager is a light and mellow brew, reminiscent of a German classic lager. Beers are $3.75 per pint.
Beer is even responsible for the most interesting item on the dessert menu. Housemade Malted Ice Cream ($2.95) is from malt produced when hops are sprouted for use in beer making. The resulting ice cream screams with the chocolatey flavor of malted milk balls.