Today Munch is contrite. On several occasions, Munch poked fun at vegan FOMs, mostly because they're dining companions with limitations, and Munch is famously insensitive to those who politicize food. VFOMs have, in the past, turned down the super-friendly "have a burger and a beer with me" offer Munch extends to someone at least once a week, a polite decline that left Munch lonely and sad, with a pen in hand. Ouch.

		Maggie's Mercantile is at 320 Atwood St. in Oakland (412-688-0608). Hours are 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesdays through Mondays. Closed Tuesdays. Questions or suggestions for Munch? Send e-mail to munch@post-gazette.com.

Today, Munch would like to say, "I'm sorry" and "How about lunch next week?" because Munch's new favorite restaurant is totally vegan-friendly. In addition, Munch has found, during the course of a short but receptive life, this rule to be universally true: People who love animals are good people.

Maggie of Maggie's Mercantile definitely loves all the little animals. Her animal-friendly vegan menu is proof, as is the goodwill marked by the fat bronze pig at the front of her Oakland restaurant. He sits atop the donation box that benefits OohMaNee Farm, the animal sanctuary and rescue operation owned by Maggie's daughter, Cayce.

The original Maggie's Mercantile is just off the Pennsylvania Turnpike, near Donegal. The new Maggie's Mercantile has a big shiny window and a graffiti-tagged facade jutting onto the cracked sidewalk of lively Atwood Street in Oakland.

At this location, now that it's springtime, the heavy foot traffic on the tree-lined street includes slim girls in white dresses with blue satin sashes, coming and going from class: the perfect target audience for healthy, conscientious, inexpensive takeaway.

Once inside, Maggie's interior is a lovely surprise, as it was when occupied by the previous tenant, Road to Karrakesh, the Spice Road restaurant where Munch never ate a meal worth repeating. Road to Karrakesh was done in spicy reddish/golden tones. Maggie's is painted aqua blue. There are huge sprays of fresh flowers on the big tables and bud vases and votives on the two-tops. The color is reminiscent of a summer day spent reading on the shady side of the house, where daylilies rather than Shasta daisies grow. It's downright romantic.

This is not dull, sensible vegan fare. The food at Maggie's is flavorsome, creative and fresh, proof that vegan/vegetarian food in Pittsburgh can be first-rate, as well as inexpensive. For $32, Munch and FOM feasted.

We began with -- of several hummus options -- the pink one, creamy, garlicky and flecked with sun-dried tomatoes. It's served with real, fresh-fried whole-wheat pita chips ($5.95).

FOM's rosemary vegetable stew ($4.95) was tomato-y and redolent of woodsy rosemary, minus little bristly bits of the herb. It was thick with al dente chunks of zucchini, onion, carrot and celery. His simple salad ($1.95) was dressed with intriguing shiitake mushroom vinaigrette.

Munch's past experiences with mock meat, made of tofu, have been less than stellar. At Maggie's, the "shrimp" is coated with coconut flakes, flash-fried to golden ($9.95) and laid on a bed of baby spinach, radicchio and chewy rice. They had a shrimp-like, juicy give, and the tangy mango sauce more than compensated for the lack of real shrimp flavor.

Maggie's also offers pizzas, wraps, entree salads and daily specials written on a big chalkboard. Munch is childless so far but knows how cooperative the children of vegetarians usually are. At Maggie's, children's entrees -- all $3.95 or less -- are both fun and responsible: curry coleslaw, tofu "chicken" nuggets, grilled cheese, BBQ tofu, veggie hot dogs and -- smile, parents who insist on vegetables -- a baby green salad.

Desserts include excellent house-made soy ice creams, their texture like flavored air spun into icy sweetness. There's cheesecake in two varieties, a gooey brownie and good, thick cakes in chocolate, carrot and chocolate peanut butter. Coffee comes in a French press. It's dark and full. Other beverages include sparkling ginger brews, root beer and Smart Water -- or BYOB for $2 corkage.

See, VFOMs: Love means never having to say you're sorry. Munch has learned a valuable lesson. Next week, Munch will make more vegetarians happy by visiting the Green Chef's Deli in Sewickley.