Although Pittsburgh is crawling with Italian restaurants, it would be hard to find one with a more interesting menu and accomplished kitchen than Lidia's in the Strip. Lidia opened her Pittsburgh restaurant in March 2001 to rave reviews and endless lines of patrons waiting for tables. Those with patience were rewarded with a dining experience worth the wait.

	Customers at Lidia's in the Strip enjoy lunch under the restaurant's dramatic round windows. (Robin Rombach, Post-Gazette)

Widely regarded as the first lady of Italian cuisine in the United States, Lidia Bastianich is cookbook author, TV show host and winner of the 2002 Outstanding Chef Award from the James Beard Foundation. Born in Istria (north and east of Venice, formerly part of Italy but today in Croatia), Lidia owns Filidia and Becco restaurants in Manhattan and Lidia's in Kansas City, all of which are highly acclaimed by food critics.

The mouth-watering menu has something for everyone. There are the standard fish, meat and chicken categories but each entree has been prepared with subtle Sicilian or Northern Italian influence. The result is fresh, light and satisfying. A whole Mediterranean sea bass ($23), removed from the bone by the waiter, is served with roasted fennel and fresh lemon slices marinated in olive oil and Sicilian sea salt, then minced and presented as a refreshing accompaniment. Each flavor and texture plays a role in enhancing the others.

Pollo con Limone e Olive ($16) is a pan-seared chicken breast in a sauce of roasted lemons, caper berries and Sicilian olives served on a bed of steamed spinach. This is definitely trattoria comfort food. For beef lovers there is Bistecca alla Griglia ($24), a 20-ounce ribeye steak rubbed with rosemary and sea salt and served with twice-fried potatoes and roasted tomato.

		LIDIA'S 1400 Smallman St. Pittsburgh, PA 15222 412-552-0150 HOURS: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner: Mondays-Thursdays 5-9 p.m., Fridays 5-10 p.m., Saturdays 4:30-10 p.m., Sunday brunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m., Sunday dinner, 4-8 p.m. BASICS: Modern bistro in a loft has sound level comfortable even for grandparents, service is deft without hovering. Excellent wine selection of $20 bottles and by the glass. Prices, appetizers, $6-$9; entrees, $15-$24; desserts, $6.50. All major credit cards accepted. Wheelchair access. Parking in lot across Smallman Street, free validation for lunch, $5 for dinner. On street parking available. Meet the PG's new dining critic

All of Lidia's restaurants offer her trademark Pasta Tasting, a trio of house-made pastas that changes daily and might include gnocchi, ravioli, lasagne or assorted dried pastas with unusual sauces. Diners can have as many refills as they wish, making this the best "all you can eat" meal in Pittsburgh for $15.

Appetizers are equally appealing. The fried calamari bear no resemblance to the frozen, pre-battered standards encountered on many local menus. Lidia's version is tempura-like, with the lightest, airiest coating imaginable. It is served with a spicy marinara sauce on the side and seasonal greens in a light lemon dressing. The large portion, ample for two to three people, is $8. The Caesar salad is another winner at $6.50. For arugula fans, the large serving of arugula with toasted walnuts, chunks of gorgonzola cheese and pear slices is pure heaven at $7.50. Another original salad is composed of sweet roasted beets and Granny Smith apples in vinaigrette with creamy, mild goat cheese ($7.50).

Among the desserts are the Italian perennials: tiramisu, cannoli and panna cotta. To venture into unfamiliar territory, try the sublime flourless chocolate cake filled with a peanut butter mousse. All desserts are $6.50.

Lidia's offers a special wine list with a large selection of Italian regional wines all priced at $20 a bottle. There is a more traditional wine list with wines of varying prices and a wide selection of wines sold by the glass for $7-$8.

Sundays are a special treat at Lidia's. A prix-fixe brunch is served from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., for $19.50. The children's brunch menu is $8. Brunch selections include a buffet antipasti table of salads, fruits and meats.

The second course ranges from a panettone version of French toast or a simmered duck hash with crispy potatoes and onions topped with poached eggs as well as other specialties chosen from the regular menu. Sunday dinners are served family style. The menu is based on Italian home-cooked specialties and served on large platters left on the table for guests to serve themselves. Each platter serves two to four people. This is not an ideal formula for two people, but is perfect for two or three couples who want to dine together and sample honest Italian cuisine in pleasant surroundings.

It would appear that Lidia's has a thorough in-house wait-staff training program. Service is professional, the ambiance casual. The loft-like space was designed to blend well with the Strip warehouse neighbors. The long bar in front of the open kitchen allows one to sip the latest cocktail craze while watching executive chef Craig Richards and his crew perform at their stoves. Tables are well-spaced and the noise level is comfortable, allowing for easy conversation and conviviality. The interior is attractive, not glitzy nor particularly romantic. It is in the spirit of a modern, straightforward bistro serving Mediterranean comfort food.

Since parking in the Strip is a problem at lunch, Lidia's validates parking tickets from the lot across the street. In the evening, parking on the street is free and parking in the lot is $5.

Now that the long wait for tables has ended, Lidia's belongs on a short list of Pittsburgh's most pleasurable dining experiences.