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Munch goes to Me Lyng
Friday, February 27, 2004

Munch loves to visit the Waterfront on the shores of Homestead. Munch loves the movie theater, the faux-quaint stores, the giant Target. But while there are a multitude of dining options there, Munch does not enjoy eating at the Waterfront? Why? It's the lines, silly.

Why people will cheerfully sit around for 90 minutes to munch on burgers at your basic chain joint has always been a mystery to Munch. There's nothing wrong at all with basic chain joints, of course, but Munch has problems with the waiting around endlessly -- especially when there are perfectly good restaurants in nearby Homestead proper and Squirrel Hill.

Just last week, in fact, Munch and a pal went to see "Something's Gotta Give" (which Munch found hugely overrated and is flabbergasted -- flabbergasted! -- by Diane Keaton's Oscar nomination for her shrieking, giggly, Annie Hall-20-years-older performance in the flick).

But Munch digresses.

Anyway, Munch and pal left the movie feeling munchy, too munchy to wait with the throngs of people outside PF Changs or Bravo Ristorante or that Mexican place or even Eat N' Park. So your hungry duo headed down to West Eighth Avenue in West Homestead to Me Lyng, a Vietnamese-Chinese place Munch has enjoyed in the past, but has unfortunately neglected to visit very often in recent years.

It seems Munch is not alone in that neglect. The place, with its impressive red doors and squeaky-clean interior, boasted only two other occupied tables, though there did seem to be a steady stream of takeout orders coming and going up front. Our waiter was grace and politeness personified, and was quick to offer ordering suggestions off the extensive menu, something Munch values very much.

First he brought Munch Xup Mang Cua ($2.25) a steaming bowl of crabmeat and asparagus soup, richly redolent with ginger and real honest-to-goodness crabmeat, not the rubbery imitation so often seen around town. Pal of Munch (POM) opted for Cha Gio, a Vietnamese spring roll, hugely oversized to egg roll proportions and stuffed through with peppery pork ($1.50).

Then came the dinners, a garlicky Hunan chicken ($7.50) for Munch and Tom Xao Hanh ($9.50) for POM. Munch had asked for the Hunan to be bumped up several notches in heat levels and wasn't disappointed with the results, which featured goodly sized chunks of chicken and a nice array of crispy vegetable.

The more adventurous POM dug right into his scallions and shrimp dish and didn't look back. POM is one of those fussy people who refuse to share meals, so Munch can only report that the Tom Xao Hanh smelled really, really good. Though Munch must confess to stealing a shrimp right off his plate when POM took a cell phone call (which serves him right, really, for being so rude).

Munch can report that everything is as delectable as Munch remembered and feels badly for letting Me Lyng shift out of heavy rotation. "Now this is food worth waiting for," Munch thought on the way out, but admittedly, it's even better when there isn't an overlong wait involved at all.

Me Lyng is located at 213 W. Eighth Ave., in West Homestead, very near the High-Level Bridge.

412-464-1477.

First published on February 27, 2004 at 12:00 am