If church isn't really your thing, but sitting in a pew on a Sunday morning still seems appealing, you're in luck: Lawrenceville's Franktuary now serves brunch.
The airy restaurant, with its high ceilings, open garage door windows and warm wood, feels like the hippest church you've ever been in.
My husband and I settled into a six-person pew-booth with my parents, my sister and her husband last weekend for an early Father's Day celebration.
The cocktail menu was longer than the food menu, but no one seemed to mind. Mimosas, Bellinis, spritzers, and Bloody Marys and Marias were all listed with "modifiers" to allow for morning booze personalization. (Bloody Marys and Marias are two for $10, mimosas and Bellinis are two for $8, and spritzers are $7.25.)
My husband had a Bloody Mary and chose the spicy "diablo house mix" over the "smoky pickle house mix." It was truly spicy -- as it should be, in my opinion -- and adorned with a tiny white flower in lieu of the traditional garnishes of pickles and olives.
I couldn't pass up the "brunch punch" ($6), a refreshing combination of Beefeater gin, Chartreuse, lemon juice and seltzer. My brother-in-law -- secure in his manliness -- ordered a classic mimosa, and my stepmother had a Bellini with pineapple juice.
With four entree options, we had no trouble sampling the whole menu. My parents both ordered the unexpectedly awesome dolma omelet ($10) -- stuffed grape leaves and feta wrapped in fluffy eggs.
My husband and brother-in-law both ordered the "Good morning, Frank," a blueberry-jalapeno pork sausage nestled into a waffle bun and topped with a fried egg ($12). My husband got his with a vegetarian sausage and said that it likely lacked the punch of the blueberry-jalapeno sausage but was satisfactory nonetheless.
I ordered the breakfast poutine ($12) -- sausage, potatoes, cheese curds and gravy -- and while it was delicious, it was about two times as much as I could consume. One order of the breakfast poutine and two Bloody Marys would be an excellent brunch for a couple.
My sister ordered the only sweet dish on the menu, the chocolate crepes with creme fraiche and mulberry compote ($10). The gluten-free cakes were crispy and chocolatey but could've used more creme fraiche and compote to balance them out, according to my sister.
My only complaint: I know it's a hot dog joint, but I'd like to see more variety, specifically a few veggie-forward brunch dishes. Sure, the four brunch entrees could all be made vegetarian, and each meal came with a small side salad with fresh local greens and flowers, but it would be nice to see the addition of more fresh vegetables to the menu, especially over the summer months.
But, really, who am I kidding? If all they served was booze, it'd still be easy to turn a trip to Franktuary into a Sunday morning ritual.
Franktuary is at 3810 Butler St., Lawrenceville; 412-586-7224 and www.franktuary.com. Brunch is served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sundays
Annie Siebert: email@example.com or 412-263-1613. Twitter: @AnnieSiebert.