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For the sake of your skin, rub it in
Sunday, January 21, 2001 By LaMont Jones, Post-Gazette Fashion Editor
You can argue whether beauty "is only skin deep" until the cows come home. But what is inarguable is that our skin reflects our internal health.
People who understand the comfort and allure of healthy, attractive skin treat it like the precious body covering it is, not some external envelope that deserves little attention.
Keeping the kissers kissable can be tough in winter, when frigid winds and bitter cold conditions assault the lips.
Moisturizer is the key to pucker-perfect, chap-free lips. Here are a few tips for maintaining healthy and attractive lips:
Among the best lip care products on the market are Laura Mercier's Lip Silk, Lip Balm #1 by Kiehl's, Arovita Eye and Lip Contour Gel by Darphin and Shiseido's Protective Lip Conditioner SPF 10.
-- LaMont Jones
"We all should know our skin like we know the backs of our hands," says David J. Leffell, a profesor of dermatology and surgery at Yale School of Medicine and author of the new book "Total Skin."
"Our skin -- close to four square meters [4.8 square yards] of it -- is the canvas upon which we craft our introduction to the world. Our skin has enormous social, sexual and political implications."
Maintaining healthy skin requires time and attention because maintaining good health does. It involves drinking plenty of water, having a balanced diet, exercising regularly and protecting the skin from the harshness of the elements (as well as avoiding smoking, drinking and extreme diets). We must age, but we can keep our skin from looking as old as we are by paying attention to those factors and by following a good skin-care regimen.
Skin care is important regardless of age, ethnicity, gender or genetics -- but it can be confusing. The skin's needs change from season to season. Summer's heat can parch and burn, while winter's cold can chap and crack.
Here's a guide to maintaining healthy skin along with suggestions of products that have proven themselves invaluable.
Let's look at the body first and then discuss the head (the face and neck, primarily).
Bathe or shower in warm, not hot, water. The hotter the water, the more it tends to dehydrate the skin. If you shower, do it fast. To moisturize skin in the process, use a gel that contains natural oils, such as Shiseido Relaxing Bath Essence, Softsoap Fruit Essentials, Seven Day Juice Fast by Philosophy and Tommy Hilfiger's Juiced Up.
One should never get out of the bathtub or shower and get dressed without moisturizing the entire body. Baths and showers tend to strip the body of the oils needed to keep skin moist and supple.
Many bath gels have the added benefit of natural fragrance, such as lavender or citrus, that turn the washing into a destressing, aromatherapeutic treat, as well. Others, such as those by French beauty giant Clarins, have natural extracts such as sequoia and sunflower that firm skin, which slackens with age.
If you use a scrub or body polisher, make sure it contains moisturizing oils. Some good ones are Origins Salt Scrub, Botanical Body Polisher by Ebony Fashion Fair, Refreshing Eucalyptus Bath Salts by Naturopathica, and Osmotics Sugar Scrubs.
After the bath or shower, pat yourself dry, but not completely. Apply a vitamin-enriched cream, lotion or oil to seal in moisture, perhaps one that combats aging as well as treats the skin. Some good ones are Creme de Corps by Kiehl's, Aromatonique by Lancome, Ginger Souffle by Origins and Neutrogena Body Oil Sesame Formula.
Applying lotion, oil or a cream after bathing also has massage benefits. It stimulates blood circulation, removal of impurities from the body and renewal of the epidermis, the external layer of skin -- plus, it's relaxing.
"Creams are better in the winter because your skin is drier," says Juana Morant, counter manager for Ebony Fashion Fair at Kaufmann's, Downtown. "The cream is thicker and protects your skin better for the winter months."
Lotion your body every day whether you bathe or not. Skin absorbs moisture and needs to be hydrated from without as much as from within. If you're prone to dry cuticles, try a heavier cream, Vaseline or highly effective nail and cuticle serums by Talika and Linda Rose.
When it comes to skin care, people unsurprisingly tend to give their face more attention than other parts of the body.
"Keeping your complexion healthy and glowing is one of the smartest and easiest things you can do for yourself," says Janice Cox, a magazine columnist and author of the book "Natural Beauty From the Garden."
"Nothing boosts your self-esteem more than clean, healthy skin. It gives you the confidence to do almost anything."
Daily cleansing, toning and moisturizing should be essential components of any daily skin-care regimen.
Most facial skin types fall into three categories: dry, oily or combination. Any of these types can also be sensitive. Use a soap cleanser that fits yours. There is a wide variety of soaps, including those for sensitive skin, in bar or liquid form. And you don't need much.
When washing the face, avoid scrubbing, which can irritate and inflame skin. Clean hands are suitable replacements for face cloths. Pat or rub gently using circular motions, and rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.
Toning is an important second step because it clarifies, refines and firms skin.
"It takes care of the skin as far as smaller pores in the skin," says Eileen Caligiuri, with Yves St. Laurent Beauty at Saks Fifth Avenue, Downtown. "It cleans out the pores and softens them. It's not a polisher, but you use it after you cleanse your skin to give it texture and smoothness."
Use a cotton ball to apply toner in sweeping motions. If you have dry skin, avoid toners that contain alcohol, since alcohol dries skin. Some good ones are Burt's Bees Garden Tomato Toner, Calvin Klein's Toning Gel Cleanser and creamy, alcohol-free Extra Gentle Tonic by Yves St. Laurent.
Moisturizing is an important final step -- just before applying sunblock. Some excellent ones: Eclat du Jour by Clarins, Estee Lauder Skin Perfecting Lotion, Dry Skin Emollient by Ebony Fashion Fair and Clinique's Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion.
Applying a hydrating mask once or twice a week helps deep-clean pores and invigorate skin. Don't be frightened by ingredients that sound like they'd clog your pores -- mud, clay, volcanic ash. Just follow the instructions and wash it off well -- or go for a mask that's light enough to leave on. Try Bobbi Brown's Purifying Clay Mask or Masque Viviant gel from Thierry Mugler's Angel line.
The first signs of aging are usually around the eyes, the most delicate skin on the face. Even if you can resist squinting and wear shades on sunny days, you need more help in the fight against crow's feet, fine lines and puffiness.
Enter the eye cream. Among the best are La Prairie's Cellular Lipo-Sculpting Eye Gel, Darphin's Soothing Eye Contour Gel, Line Refiner by Trish McEvoy and Lancome's Re-Surface Eye.
Overnight products nourish the skin while you sleep, working to repair and restore your skin while the body rests. Some excellent night concoctions are Concentrate Intense Moisture Treatment by Prescriptives, Estee Lauder's Advanced Night Repair Protective Recovery Complex, Moisture Quenching Hydra-Balance Cream by Clarins and REM Intensive Night Therapy by Erno Laszlo.
Some products are formulated for day and night use. Creme de la Mer, Yves St. Laurent's Temps Majeur and Blue Copper by Osmotics are among the most popular.
Some people mix and match products from different lines to come up with a combination that works best for them. Others prefer everything from the same line, and there are dozens from which to choose.
Whatever you choose, remember that many products are formulated to work for all skin types. Just check the packaging.
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In the morning before going out, apply a lip balm or moisturizer that contains lanolin, cocoa butter or another moisturizing substance, plus alpha hydroxy acids, which exfoliate dead skin while helping to retain moisture. Reapply throughout the day as needed.