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Top designers dress up women's feminine side
Thursday, September 21, 2000 By LaMont Jones, Post-Gazette Fashion Editor
NEW YORK -- More of the same.
That's what womenswear next spring and summer is shaping up to be -- more of the same ladylike styles that have defined the beginning of the new millennium and that celebrate the feminine form and mystique.
Designers court bright colors, body-conscious styles to court men
And there's even more to look forward to next year, thanks to previews by some of America's top designers at General Motors Fashion Week here. Polka dots and geometric patterns get leading roles. Black-and-white combos and neon, electric and citrus bright colors show up in force. And one-shoulder styles join halter, wrap and belted looks as bygone trends yanked off the shelf, dusted off and given a fresh, updated feel.
So what if spring is three seasons away? A glimpse at what many designers will be serving up is sure to provoke some anticipation among even the most pragmatic.
Designer Linda Allard presented a line for the label that was nothing short of sensational, from the gilded, zebra-print denim coat, ivory silk chiffon draped halter and khaki-colored cotton-satin trouser that opened the show to the fresh, beaded white lace slip dress that ended it.
The sophisticated line reinforced Ellen Tracy's reputation for wearable, affordable and always chic clothes. It included sexy tube skirts, pretty peacoats and beautifully detailed camisoles and halters. Among the outstanding looks were a white-polka-dot-on-navy silk crepe blouse with a matching tube skirt; a red patent leather skirt suit with an ivory jersey camisole; a dynamite black-and-nude, double-faced jacquard coat and skirt with a black stretch silk crepe blouse; a gorgeous black silk chiffon draped halter dress and a lavender floral silk chiffon draped camisole with a matching laminated skirt.
Those who got a glimpse of Montano's fall collection when he made a recent fund-raising visit to Pittsburgh will be pleased to know that his spring collection is just as fun and fanciful.
It's party time with these clothes, and it's entirely possible that other guests may see you coming from several blocks away. Montano, ever a fun-lover, titled the collection "Circus Housewife" and gave outfits names such as Trapeze, Lion Tamer and Knife Thrower.
What's the translation? A teal tinfoil denim dress with sequins and chiffon; a black-and-gold spiral sequin dress with a detachable collar; a light blue sparkling georgette blouse with fly-away sleeves and a blue-lined bias skirt; and a multicolored, sleeveless fabric bow tie-covered "pinata dress" with a matching coat.
Pittsburghers Marybeth Johnson, Esther Mallouh and Shirley Yee had a bird's-eye view of the runway and gave the collection thumbs up.
Few designers can work denim and little black dresses -- the opposite ends of the fashion spectrum -- like Miller. Before an audience that included the popular singing trio Destiny's Child, she unveiled treated denim outfits, captivating floral patterns and figure-flattering geometric patterns.
Key looks were a white raincoat over a gold mesh dress; a pretty coral and pink matte jersey racer-back halter dress; a one-shoulder, asymmetrical back-wrap gold denim dress with zigzag stitching and shimmery blue iridescent lurex pants, dresses, jackets and skirts.
The collection's only weak links were a lilac silk camisole and dress on which Miller combined floral and animal prints. They so didn't work.
The celebrity count was high at this showing, with Ivana Trump, Angie Harmon, Byron Allen and Vidal Sassoon checking out supple red leathers, sexy biker jackets and pleather pieces.
Supermodel Gisele opened the show in green with a flashy leather jacket, crochet bikini top and shantung shorts. A floral printed biker jacket in turquoise, yellow and gray was another hot look, as well as a silver metal parka and sparkling sequin pants that reflected silver, charcoal and blue.
This dynamic design duo created their own spikey shoes and sassy handbags to complement their collection of sequin- and bead-embellished shirt dresses, halter dresses, wrap skirts and gowns.
If their faces were any clue, actors Bebe Neuwirth, Milla Jovovich, Stephen Baldwin and Lauren Holly liked the collection. It included a number of lovely backless, bias-cut dresses with spaghetti straps and V-necks, plus an elegant purple halter dress with crystal beading and crystal- and bead-encrusted gowns with chiffony hems that floated down the runway like gently rippling waves.
Plaids and kimono styling were part of many collections, but few as pronounced as Chaiken. Talk show host Ricki Lake was among spectators who viewed the designs in a range of looks, notably sexy one-shoulder stylings.
Black and white combinations were also popular, as in a jersey V-back T-shirt with a plaid silk tulle pleated skirt and a tweed cowl-back sweater with a banded silk micro-pinstripe pant.
Other directional looks were a khaki-colored wrap-back sweater with a brown linen leather skirt and a white matte jersey top with a matching sateen stretch full skirt.
The champagne flowed at Pier 92 in Manhattan before the showing of a come-hither collection highlighted by stunning gowns and sexy leather outfits in soft pastels. There were lots of beading, sequins and fringes, including in daytime wear and swimwear, and lovely floral prints also played a big role.
Spain's influence on designer Brian Rennie was unmistakable. A spectacular gold-fringed black matador jacket with matching beaded pants seemed to be a favorite among spectators, as did a black-and-fuschia beaded bolero jacket with a matching hooded cape, capri pants and a satin cummerbund.
Harry Winston's sparkling jewels were fitting accessories, but even their opulence couldn't upstage the pure glamour -- with a healthy dose of sex appeal -- of this collection. It was basically an evening line, with some of the looks -- such as the oyster-colored fitted wool jacket and matching skirt -- adaptable for the office.
Where to start? The platinum satin jeweled jacket with a matching long skirt, or the sage peacock feather corset with a pale gray satin draped bias skirt? The black lacquered, bias-cut linen jacket with matching pants or the long-sleeve, silver-and-black "Geena" gown with a sparkling cobweb pattern?
The collection puts Pamela Dennis in the winner's circle.
One of the loveliest, most distinctive collections all week. Her cocktail dresses captivated, with laser treatments giving some garments soft, flowing looks and alligator putting some bite in accessories.
White laser chiffon gave an alluring kick to black jersey cocktail dresses, pantsuits and T-shirts. A backless, black laser cocktail dress with a scarf flowing behind supplied the right amount of drama, and a tangerine-and-fuschia silk cocktail dress with a black-and-white strap across the back was complemented by a sleek black alligator and white satin clutch.
Swimwear was a part of numerous collections, and Perrin's dazzling Swarovski fire crystal and neon lacquered leather bikini could rock any beach or poolside. She closed the show with a glorious seashell satin bridal halter gown that used embroidery and beading to illustrate wedding vows in English, Hebrew, Sanskrit and Hindi.
If you were going to clothe a goddess, you'd probably begin her wardrobe with a few things from Klein's spring collection. Romantic and alluring, the line reached back to the heyday of "Charlie's Angels" and updated the trends with sheer blouses, belted jackets, coats and hot pants and plenty of vibrant color.
There were many shades of pink, with a jacket with a large belt and plunging neckline looking great with matching pants. Tuxedo suits with belled pants were cosmopolitan and urbane, with sexy, sheer shells peeking from under the jackets.
In a very short time, Hannant has progressed from a Fashion Week Moet & Chandon debut designer to an artist known for his ability to consistently create alluring and exciting looks. His spring collection is characterized by creative sleeve treatments, dainty wrap, sexy off-the-shoulder dresses and tops and bold, larger-than-life collars.
Key looks were a khaki sheep suede wrap shirt dress with elongated bell sleeves; a black lizard-skin belted bustier and zebra silk organza bias pants, and a dusty rose silk crepe chiffon halter gown that crisscrosses over the chest and back.
Inspired by the nocturnal beauty of New York and the enormous breadth and depth of its culture, Tam put together 56 looks that were sophisticated and urbane.
"Many of the prints and patterns in the collection are a result of the views from my terrace," she said.
And what an inspiring view, for from it sprang ensembles such as a berry-colored metal sequin shell with a painted iridescent organza skirt. She made liberal use of metal rings, as in the black matte jersey halter top with matching black crystal skirt. Pleated skirts, ombre sequin skirts and tanks and iridescent geometric sequins in halters and dresses with midnight-hued leather pants and coats were made for evenings when the night beckons.
Her collection, with plenty of sparkle and lots of lace, was essentially elegant. Iridescence, great abalone pieces and touches such as gauntlets accented wonderful gowns, pants and tops.
Inspiration from islands could be seen in highlights such as a mesh blue lace tank top over a matching denim skirt with a high front slit and long train; a glittering blue abalone V-neck halter dress; a gold beaded, bone-colored tankini with matching Ultrasuede pants and duster; and a freshwater pearl-encrusted cowl-neck gown with matching gauntlets.
Excess tempered with good humor can be fun, and no one does it better than Johnson, America's undisputed Queen of Camp. For her spring debut, she skipped the high-priced (and overexposed) beauties from New York's top agencies and recruited Playboy magazine "Playmates" -- and the designer's daughter Lulu -- to model her 84 new looks.
Perhaps never before had Bryant Park seen so much silicone and peroxide, but Johnson's bevy of buxom bombshells had a blast.
This show was the most fun, taking everyone, including Cyndi Lauper in a front row seat, on a journey from January through December with looks to match every season and holiday. The models tottered down the catwalk in costumes that, for the most part, could not be worn in public without risking reputation.
But those able to get beyond the streetwalker cleavage, floozy makeup, big hair and provocative music saw some good fashion. There was a raspberry-hued sequin tube top with side-slit pants, a lime paisley silk wrap skirt, a turquoise silk gingham bustier with matching low-rise pants, a white crystal tulle ball gown and a gorgeous stunning blue-green tiger-print halter gown.
At the end, when Johnson came from backstage to greet the applauding audience, she turned her signature cartwheel and then sashayed down the runway with Lulu for a final salute to cameras. She laughed all the way and much of the audience with her, a reminder among all the Fashion Week pretension that it's only clothes.
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Ellen Tracy