The website for Altius, which opened six weeks ago on the former Georgetowne Inn site, notes it is striving toward "elevated cuisine."
As its spectacular view from Mount Washington is matched by inventive modern American fare, Altius might well be the chic new place to be.
"Altius means 'higher' in Latin," said co-owner B. DeFrancis, adding the name is meant to represent both the restaurant's location and higher standards.
Gone are the dark-paneled walls and heavy furnishings. Instead, Altius offers two tiers of light, bright spaces renovated by architect and designer Teresa Bucco. Fifty shades of gray never looked so good.
The lower-level bar has wine and beer lists punctuated by organic, biodynamic and sustainable offerings, in keeping with Altius' embrace of the holistic, spiritual approach to agriculture. Entrees include lamb rack from Latrobe's Jamison Farms, sheep's milk gnocchi with peas and mushrooms in a broth-like sauce and, for fun, there's "Duck, Duck, Goose."
The last features seared breast, leg confit and goose liver mousse.
More fun: our night began with a complimentary offering of warm, chive-seasoned popcorn.
"Have some popcorn with your movie," our server said, laughing, as he gestured toward the palatial view overlooking the city.
High times, indeed.