Hot off the runway: New York Fashion Week previews trends for fall 2016
February 22, 2016 12:00 AM
Frazer Harrison/Getty Images
Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images
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Diane von Furstenberg
Julie Jacobson/Associated Press
Oscar de la Renta
Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger
Alice + Olivia
Alice + Olivia
Alice + Olivia
Nina Westervelt/The New York Times
Marc Jacobs, featuring guest model Lady Gaga, at left.
By Sara Bauknecht / Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
NEW YORK -— There’s a difference between being in a rut and staying true to your roots.
At New York Fashion Week’s fall/winter 2016 shows, which ended last week, there wasn’t too much we hadn’t seen before. In other words, don’t expect to find anything too revolutionary on store racks later this year. However, what we did see was done impeccably well, with several designers churning out collections that were some of their best.
Check out some of the creme de la creme trends in the months ahead:
Retro references: Designers danced from decade to decade in search of inspiration for their collections.The 1960s and ’70s remained key influences, continuing a resurgence that began in fall 2015. This time, however, there were fewer literal references (the all-out fringe foray seen in stores last year, for instance). Instead, we saw more subtle nods to the era — high-waist and wide-legged pants, wide brim hats, patchwork prints, flowy Boho frocks, secretary blouses with signature bows tied at the neck and slinky disco-worthy slip dresses. Others drew upon trends from the 1930s, ’40s, ’80s and ’90s.
Shades of blue: Denim, aqua, teal -— yes, blues of practically every hue colored the catwalk. Pantone declared the color family the anchor of its fall 2016 color report released during Fashion Week. Other shades that surfaced often included vibrant blood reds, ink blacks and crisp whites (which Thomas Wylde dubbed “cocaine” in his collection).
All that sparkles: A red carpet prediction: Expect to see gowns dripping in all-over glitz at the Oscars. Designers who regularly dress Hollywood’s leading ladies showed gowns that were exquisitely beaded and embellished with statement stones or metallic-hammered sequins. (Dennis Basso, Naeem Khan, Reem Acra and J.Mendel did it particularly well, and Ralph Lauren did a couple pieces in a flowing lame fabric that looked like liquid gold.)
Coats for all occasions: Whether you’re dining someplace dapper or just dashing out to do daytime errands, designers have you covered this fall. Shearling-lined bomber jackets and cute cropped coats were among the more popular options for casual wear, while capes and fur coverings (long and short, in sable, broadtail, mink, chinchilla and faux varieties) were perfect for playing dress-up. Derek Lam stood out with sharp belted fur maxis with windowpane patterns and more abstract designs.
It’s in the details: Like good movies, many collections had to be seen again and again to fully appreciate their artistry. There were rich brocades, appliques, crushed velvets and velours emblazoned with simple patterns, lace trimmings and insets, ombre skins and ruffles. At Nanette Lepore’s presentation, a bomber jacket and dress impressed with a beautiful bird and flower print masterfully done in sequins and beads.
Gender-fluid garments: For yet another season, women’s wear continues to embrace androgyny. Sexy, sleek black and printed pant suits married masculine with feminine. There was also a healthy dose of sportswear, with everyone from Rihanna for Puma to Michael Kors showing some love for the hoodie.
Full coverage: Designers sure didn’t skimp on volume. Extra-long sleeves, shoes with sky-high soles, oversized silhouettes, exaggerated turtleneck sweaters, long-haired fur pieces and the fullest of full skirts doubled the drama at some runway shows. (Marc Jacobs, we’re looking at you.)
Sara Bauknecht: firstname.lastname@example.org or on Twitter and Instagram @SaraB_PG. See more reports from New York Fashion Week on the Post-Gazette’s fashion blog Stylebook at www.post-gazette.com/stylebook.
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