Thursday, October 23, 2003

Toni Pais is the chef-owner of Baum Vivant, Cafe Zinho and, opening very soon, Zao, at Penn and 7th avenues in the Cultural District.

"We use American Kobe beef at Baum Vivant," he says. "I love it. I like to make carpaccio, which is raw and thinly sliced. I use the beef tenderloin moistened with a little argan oil from Morocco to give the meat a nutty flavor. Raw, you can taste the true flavor of the beef. We also offer a plain grilled tenderloin steak dinner at $55 that includes organic salad greens and seasonal vegetables. Either way, we always sell out.

"I like to cook Kobe for the least amount of time, so you can taste the beef. I don't recommend a sauce. Simple is best."

Kobe beef is only occasionally on the menu. For details, call 412-682-2620.

Or, you can go to Japan. Andy Kikuyama, owner of Kiku Japanese Restaurant in Station Square, is a native of Kobe, Japan. He has lived in the United States for 30 years. Kikuyama has eaten plenty of Kobe beef.

"Every time I go home to visit family, I eat Kobe beef. We usually make sukiyaki or shabu-shabu, thin slices of beef dipped into steaming broth fondue-style, then dipped into sauce. It's very expensive. Kobe beef is very soft and tender, like toro tuna.

"Most of the meat is so marbled, it is melting in the mouth. I used to love it, but now I find it too fatty. I have never served Japanese Kobe beef in the restaurant because of the expense."

American Kobe-style beef is also available by request from Jo-Mar Provisions, a meat wholesale and retail distributor specializing in game meats and located at 18th and Smallman in the Strip District. Ask for owner Ken Zvirman, 412-471-1760.

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