Thursday, October 09, 2003

By Miriam Rubin

In the food world, when you say prosciutto (ham in Italian), you are usually talking about salt-cured, unsmoked ham produced under strict guidelines in one of two places in Italy: Parma or San Daniele, in Friuli.

	Tony Cafarelli's goal is to make his homemade prosciutto as good as world-famous Parma ham. The Ambridge resident started by buying up all the sea salt in the Strip District, and then ground the large crystals in a coffee mill at home. (Doreena Balestreire, Post-Gazette)

Parma is the larger, better-known producer, but Prosciutto di San Daniele is famous in its own right. Side-by-side tastings might find that one is sweeter and the other more full-bodied, but most of us just enjoy them both.

Prosciutto is also produced in Canada and in the United States, as at the Ambridge home of Tony Cafarelli, where, right now, no fewer than 42 hams are hanging from the ceiling of his fruit cellar.

Making prosciutto is one of Cafarelli's passions. He also makes a tasty capicolla and prepares his own soppresatta sausage. If you're looking for something to sip as you sample the affetati misti (cured sliced meats), his red Chamboursin wine garnered first place in a contest at a fund-raiser for the Ambridge Laughlin Memorial Free Library last year.

A first-generation Italian and independent concrete mason, Cafarelli learned his trade and his love for all things Italian from his father, Guy, with whom he shares a home. There the primary language spoken is Italian.

Cafarelli learned to make prosciutto from watching and helping friends and members of his extended family, who might cure one or two hams each year. The process fascinated him.

"I picked up bits and pieces," he said. "I took all the knowledge, putting it together to make my own concoction."

His first attempts were not wholly successful. Sometimes the hams were overly salty, sometimes too dry and hard. Cafarelli says he wanted to perfect his recipe -- "to make it as good as Parma ham."

The prosciutto makers he'd watched used either regular iodized table salt, which burned and darkened the meat, or curing salt, which contains nitrates.

Cafarelli started to do research. He looked at the label on prosciutto di Parma. It listed only two ingredients: pork and salt. He read an article describing the secrets of making this famous ham -- simply "time and salt."

He learned a secret. Salt. The salt used to prepare Parma ham wasn't table salt or curing salt, it was sea salt from the Mediterranean, sale di mare.

Cafarelli bought up all the sea salt in the Strip District, ground the large crystals fine in a coffee mill, and found that this was his secret ingredient.

His ham order arrives just after New Year's, which is when the prosciutto-making cycle begins in the fruit cellar behind his house.

First he rubs the hams with finely ground sea salt and stacks them in a big plastic-lined tub. He repeats the salting twice more during a three-week period. The salt draws out the moisture from the hams.

	Where to find it Here's a sampling of stores that sell prosciutto: Pennsylvania Macaroni Co., 2010-2012 Penn Ave., Strip District. San Daniele and Parma prosciutto, plus domestic brands. Pros at slicing and wrapping. Whole Foods, 5880 Centre Ave. San Daniele prosciutto, sliced to order and pre-packaged. McGinnis Sisters Specialty Foods, 3825 Saw Mill Run Blvd. Domestic prosciutto, sliced to order. DeLallo's Italian Market, 101 Lincoln Highway East, Jeannette. Domestic and Parma prosciutto, sliced to order. Donatelli's, 4711 Liberty Ave., Bloomfield. Domestic and Parma prosciutto, sliced to order. Labriola Italian Grocery, 605 Freeport Road, Aspinwall. Domestic and Parma prosciutto, sliced to order. Merante Groceria, 3454 Bates St., Oakland. Domestic and Parma prosciutto, sliced to order. -- Miriam Rubin

After the salting, the hams are rinsed with a vinegar and water mixture and placed on big bread racks, meat side up. They rest for a week to help the salt penetrate through the meat to the bone.

Only one part of the fruit cellar is heated, so Cafarelli controls the temperature, which needs to remain around 40 degrees, by opening and closing the windows, not unlike the process in Parma, in which air flow and humidity are controlled by louvered screens.

After resting, the hams are transferred to a worktable. Cafarelli massages them with red wine, coats the meat side with black pepper to discourage insects and rubs the tops of the hams, where the bone protrudes, with ground red pepper. A rope is tied around the end of each and they hang from ceiling racks for six months. As the meat air-dries, it begins to become tender.

After six months, the hams are coated with shortening and flour to seal in the remaining moisture. They will now rest for 12 more months, to tenderize and mellow, until they are ready to eat.

And what do you do with 42 prociutti? Cafarelli is an affable guy who loves to entertain. He often brings one (or two) along with his restaurant-type meat slicer to a party, where nothing makes him happier than hearing how much you enjoyed his excellent prosciutto.

Prosciutto on the road
Even if prosciutto is not on the menu at Lidia's restaurant, just ask for it, says chef Craig Richards. They always have prosciutto di San Daniele in the house. Richards' buys it from Pennsylvania Macaroni, down the street.

Because of the Atkins high-protein diet, prosciutto has gained new popularity, he said. The restaurant serves it with cracked black pepper and grated fresh horseradish.

Last spring, a favorite dish was pasta with prosciutto and peas from Lidia's most recent cookbook. At lunchtime, Richards offers prosciutto as part of a cured meat platter, along with slices of mortadella, Friulian soppressata, air-dried beef, marinated bocconcini and house-pickled fresh vegetables.

At a restaurant in Parma, we watched as the owner hand-carved perfect slices of prosciutto di Parma, arranging them simply on a white plate. No accompaniment save rough chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano -- nothing more was needed.

In a busy osteria called La Frasca outside of Udine, Italy, owner and wine-maker Valter Scarbolo introduced us to a memorable prosciutto dish. Thin egg pasta was tossed with a creamy sauce mixed with finely diced, almost ground prosciutto and the unusual addition of poppy seeds. The pasta was mounded on the plate and wrapped in thin sheets of prosciutto di San Daniele, which nearly melted in our mouths.

Prosciutto dreams.

It can be enjoyed gloriously plain or you can improve upon its perfection. We've assembled some recipes that highlight its versatility.

TONY CAFARELLI'S GRAND ANTIPASTO PLATTER
Use this list as a guide to preparing your own antipasto platter. Eight ounces of prosciutto, sliced paper-thin, will serve at least 6 people, along with the other ingredients.

• Thinly sliced prosciutto
  
• Sweet or hot sliced sopressata
  
• Thinly sliced capicolla
  
• Ripe olives
  
• A wedge of Asiago or fontinella cheese
  
• Roasted Red Peppers with Garlic and Parsley (see below)

Arrange all ingredients in an attractive manner on a platter, putting the olives and peppers in a bowl. Serve with crusty bread, rolls or bread sticks, if you like.

	What to ask for when you order Many Southwestern Pennsylvania stores carry domestic and imported prosciutto. Some will be more savvy about slicing and packaging. At some places you might need to keep a close eye on the person slicing and explain exactly what you want. If you're looking for imported prosciutto, be sure it was imported from Italy. Domestic prosciutto can be a good buy, however, if the imported has a slow turnover. Ask for a taste and buy what you like. The fat is considered part of the meat, and it shouldn't be trimmed off. It should have a nice white or rosy color. The meat should be light rose or pink in color. Have prosciutto sliced as thinly as possible, but not so thin that it crumbles. Ask to see the first slice. If you want it thinner or thicker, say so. The slices must be arranged only slightly overlapping on butcher paper so that you will be able to separate them later. Use prosciutto within a couple of days. It does not freeze well. -- Miriam Rubin

ROASTED RED PEPPERS WITH GARLIC AND PARSLEY
Tony and Guy Cafarelli roast a bushel or two of red peppers every summer on a grate over an outdoor wood fire until the skins are charred. The charred peppers are placed in a large, covered pot to steam and loosen the skins. When they are cool, Tony peels the peppers, wiping off stubborn bits of skin with paper towel -- never rinsing them, as it washes the flavor away. Peppers are halved, seeded and frozen, about 4 per large zipper-closure bag. You can also roast a smaller number of peppers on a gas grill, under a broiler or directly in the flames of a gas stove, turning often, until charred.

• 2 to 4 red bell peppers, roasted and peeled, halved, seeded and cut into strips
  
• 2 or 3 cloves garlic, minced
  
• 2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  
• 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
  
• Salt, to taste

Mix the peppers with the olive oil, parsley and garlic and season to taste with salt. Serve right away or cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

PENNE WITH PROSCIUTTO AND PEAS
This recipe, a favorite at Lidia's Pittsburgh, was adapted from "Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen." In the book it's called "Straw and Hay," Paglia e Fieno, because it's made with fresh green and golden egg tagliolini. We took Lidia's suggestion and made it with dried pasta, hence the name change.

• 1 pound penne
  
• Salt
  
• 4 scallions, trimmed
  
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  
• 1 cup frozen baby peas, defrosted
  
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  
• 6 to 8 slices imported prosciutto, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick ribbons (don't stack the slices)
  
• 2/3 cup canned reduced sodium chicken broth
  
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
  
• 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Bring 6 quarts salted water to a boil in an 8-quart pot over high heat. Add pasta and cook according to package until al dente. Drain. Return pasta to the cooking pot. Cover and keep warm.

Meanwhile, cut scallions in half lengthwise, then crosswise into 3-inch lengths. Cut scallion pieces lengthwise into thin strips.

Heat oil in large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add scallions and cook until wilted. Add peas and butter and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Add prosciutto and toss until it changes color, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until reduced by half. Add cream and simmer until lightly thickened, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add sauce to pasta. Bring to a boil, stirring to coat pasta. Cook until sauce is reduced enough to form a creamy, gilding sauce.

Remove from heat, toss in cheese and serve immediately in warm bowls.

Makes 6 servings.

FRUIT AND PROSCIUTTO SALAD
While this may be an untraditional treatment of prosciutto, it's delicious. Serve for a simple lunch on the patio with crusty bread or for dinner, followed by grilled fish or vegetables.

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  
• 4 teaspoons champagne vinegar or rice wine vinegar
  
• 1 teaspoon honey
  
• 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
  
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
  
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced red onion
  
• 5 cups colorful mixed baby greens or mesclun leaves
  
• 3 cups small thin slices ripe cantaloupe
  
• 6 large slices imported prosciutto, cut or torn into 1-inch pieces
  
• 1 cup fresh raspberries

In bottom of large salad bowl, with a fork, whisk oil, vinegar, honey, lemon zest, salt and pepper. Stir in onion. If possible, let stand for 15 minutes.

Add greens and cantaloupe and toss to mix. Sprinkle with prosciutto and raspberries and toss gently. Serve right away. Makes 4 servings.

Miriam Rubin is a Greene County freelance writer, recipe developer and author.

E-mail this story   Print this story