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Thursday, April 03, 2003

By Marlene Parrish, Post-Gazette Staff Writer

There's a war going on, and this one is not in the Middle East. It's in the Pacific Northwest. The focus of the fracas is salmon, wild vs. farm-raised. As in most wars, each side has its points.

The wild camp: The Pacific wild salmon is an icon of the Northwest. It is important to the ecology, the economy, the recreation and the pride of the region. To Native Americans, salmon has cultural and spiritual significance.

On the negative side, the wild- salmon advocates raise a fist to those who farm-raise salmon, saying the industry is bad for people's health because the fish are given antibiotics which are passed on to the consumer, and bad for the environment because of the salmon's drug-laden wastes. Farm-raised salmon are a threat to wild salmon, they claim, because escaped fish displace fragile wild stocks from their habitat, and parasites and disease can be passed on and contaminate wild salmon. And that's just the short list of the finger-pointing.

The farm-raised camp: Concern about wild salmon is understandable, they say. Global warming, bad forestry practices, overfishing and pollution already threaten some salmon populations. Farming salmon is a way to complement the threatened wild salmon catch. Because it is readily available year-round, farm-raised salmon is in the market when wild salmon is not.

All aspects of salmon health are being upgraded, say the spokesmen, including veterinarian inspections, reduced use of antibiotics, specially formulated feed for an optimum nutritional profile, precautions against escapes and a refined government inspection system. Farmers deny that their fish are genetically modified.

Bringing it home

Consumers don't need to go to war or join either camp. They can choose salmon according to price, recipe, species and availability, as well as by where they stand on the issues.

Wild salmon are valued for their rich flavor and fatty (the "good" kind of fat) texture. The yearly run of the fish begins in May with the Chinook or King salmon. Other species -- Sockeye or Red, Coho or Silver -- follow throughout the season until fall. Buy wild salmon when it is in season to experience Mother Nature's finest. Cook it simply to appreciate its unique flavor: grill, poach, broil or saute. The price per pound for this seasonal fish is in the double digits.

When the wallet dictates, consumers can buy farm-raised salmon with its consistent look, size and texture, and when the recipe has ingredients that would otherwise mask flavors. It is available year-round. The price per pound is usually in the single digits.

On restaurant menus, if salmon is a fixed item, it is most likely farmed. Wild salmon will be billed "wild," while farmed salmon may be listed only as "fresh."

Bottom line: You pays your money, you takes your choice.

What about canned?

Canned salmon is of the wild variety because the less firm consistency of farmed varieties makes them difficult to can. Some brands of salmon pate, however are made from farmed salmon.

Unlike tuna, which is canned with water or oil, a can of salmon contains only salmon plus a pinch of salt. The liquid, which consists of oil and juices from the salmon, and the soft bones both are safe to eat. The bones are an excellent source of calcium, while the skin offers protein and omega-3 fatty acids.

Canned fish is an essential in the well-stocked pantry for the times when you need a quick meal. It is thoroughly cooked in the canning process to kill bacteria, but the cooking diminishes the texture and flavor of the fish. Canned salmon should never star in a dish but should be used in a supporting role in soups, casseroles and patties, where the flavors of other ingredients help to offset the downsides of canning. You get what you pay for because price (and color) are good indicators of quality.

SALMON WITH ASPARAGUS AND MINT

All you need to cook is a bowl of rice to make a meal with this 10-minute dish with Vietnamese overtones. Put the rice on to cook, then assemble the recipe. Use a medium skillet with a lid; cast-iron works well. Fish and oyster sauces are found in the Asian sections of supermarkets.

• 1 tablespoon Asian fish sauce
  
• 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
  
• 1 tablespoon water
  
• 1 teaspoon brown sugar
  
• 1/2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
  
• 1 tablespoons olive oil
  
• 3/4 to 1 pound salmon fillet, skin on, cut into 2 pieces
  
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
  
• 1/2-inch-thin asparagus, cut into 1-inch pieces
  
• 1/3 cup chopped fresh mint

In a small bowl, whisk together the fish sauce, oyster sauce, water, sugar and pepper flakes; set aside.

Heat the oil over medium-high heat in a medium skillet. Place salmon in hot oil; cook 1 minute, turn over, toss in the garlic and cook 2 minutes more.

Add the cut asparagus around the sides of the pan. Pour reserved sauce mixture into the pan, cover, reduce heat to medium and simmer for 3 to 5 minutes until salmon just flakes and asparagus is crisp-tender. Remove from heat, and place salmon pieces on plates. Stir mint into the asparagus-sauce mixture in the skillet, stir and pour over and around the salmon. Makes 2 servings.

BARBECUED SALMON FILLETS

If your teenager is learning to cook, suggest this recipe. It's a dish for barbecue lovers without a barbecue. The sauce couldn't be easier, and it is just right for the subtle flavor of farm-raised salmon. Fish haters could love this.

• 1 salmon fillet, about 1 1/2 pounds
  
• 2 tablespoons butter, melted
  
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  
• 2 tablespoons ketchup
  
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
  
• 2 tablespoons minced onion
  
• 1 tablespoon brown sugar
  
• 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
  
• 1 teaspoon salt

Cut the salmon fillet into 4 serving pieces and place on a greased, foil-lined baking sheet. Mix together the rest of the ingredients in a small saucepan and heat gently. Pour over the salmon.

Place under a preheated broiler, and cook on one side only, allowing about 10 minutes per inch of thickness of the fish. Serves 4.

BRAISED SALMON AND FENNEL

Canned salmon alert! Buy a good quality brand to ensure a good dish. Buy pre-washed and bagged spinach in the produce section.

• 7.5-ounce can salmon, drained
  
• 1 tablespoon butter
  
• 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil
  
• 1 garlic clove, sliced
  
• 1 small bulb fennel, sliced (reserve fronds for garnish)
  
• 1 small red pepper, cut into chunks
  
• 4 small Roma tomatoes, cut into quarters
  
• 2 scallions, sliced
  
• 30 spinach leaves
  
• Salt and pepper to taste

Drain salmon and set aside. Melt butter and olive oil together in a saucepan over medium heat. Put sliced garlic and fennel in the pan. Soften for 30 seconds.

Add red pepper and tomatoes. Cover, lower heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Add green onion, spinach and chunks of salmon.

Return to heat, cover and heat for about 1 to 2 minutes until heated through and spinach is wilted. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serves 2.

"Tin Fish Gourmet" by Barbara-Jo McIntosh