The French holding company Baron Philippe de Rothschild built its fame on premium red wines.
The best known are Chateau Mouton Rothschild, a fabled first-growth in Bordeaux; Chateau d'Armailhac and Chateau Clerc Milan, two fifth-growths in Bordeaux; Opus One, a joint venture with Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa, Calif.; and Almaviva (Specialty 28660, $69.39) a joint venture with Concha y Toro in Chile.
The company also produces branded wines, of which the most famous, Mouton Cadet Rouge (5742, $9.99) and Mouton Cadet Blanc (4834, $9.99), are the best-selling Bordeaux wines in the world.
In the 1990s, Baron Philippe de Rothschild expanded its branded series to the rapidly developing wine-producing areas of the Languedoc-Roussillon along the arc of France's southern coast. The resulting wines, such as 1999 Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Chardonnay, Vin de Pays D'Oc, France (7959, $19.99) and 1999 Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Cabernet Sauvignon, Vin de Pays D'Oc, France (7958, $10.99), offer excellent value and quality.
In more recent years, Baron Philippe de Rothschild has brought some intriguing new wines to international markets. For example, the 1998 Baron'arques, Vin de Pays de la Haute Vallee de l'Aude, France (Special Limited Order 77053, call 800-332-7522, $49.68) is produced in collaboration with the Vignerons du Sieur d'Arques, a wine-making cooperative in the Languedoc-Roussillon.
The wine's wonderful rich flavors of cassis, plums and chocolate come from a unique blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, syrah, grenache and malbec judiciously seasoned with oak. The grapes come from the premier terroirs in the Languedoc villages of Villar-Saint-a, Saint-Polycarpe, Gardie, and Villebazy. The wine is an excellent choice with summertime grilled meats, and it also has excellent aging potential.
In another intriguing development, veteran global winemaker Pascal Marty, who has experience at Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Opus One and Almaviva, now heads Baron Philippe de Rothschild's new venture in Chile's Maipo Valley.
The first wine from this effort, 1999 Escudo Rojo, Maipo Valley, Chile (SLO 53388-1, $16.30), is an elegant, full-flavored red blend of cabernet sauvignon (60 percent), cabernet franc (10 percent), Carmenere (25 percent), and merlot (5 percent). Marty uses the Rothschild tradition of assemblage (that is, blending) wines made from grapes grown on leading terroirs, in this case three vineyards in the Maipo Valley.
Escudo Rojo's saturated purple color offers concentrated aromas of cassis, blackberries, bell peppers and oak accents. The rich flavors of berries, bell pepper and chocolate are enveloped in a supple texture and a fruity, full-bodied finish with excellent balance. This is a wine that can be enjoyed now with strong cheeses and grilled steaks. It should, however, be decanted at least an hour or two before serving. (In fact, my bottle actually evolved and improved after standing corked overnight.) With patient cellaring, the wine will continue to improve in the bottle for at least five years.
Best buys
Try the following tasty white wines with grilled seafood such as scallops (precoated with olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, coarse salt and black pepper) and swordfish (with a marinade of soy sauce, ginger, garlic and olive oil):
1999 Wyndham Estate "Bin 222" Chardonnay, Southeastern Australia (7129, on sale: $8.99): Gold/green color with aromas of citrus and vanilla followed by rich, creamy texture with citrus flavors and oak accents.
1999 Silverado Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, California (5627, on sale: $14.49; available chilled in PLCB store "cold boxes"): Lovely aromas of ripe melons, figs and lemongrass; crisp, elegant flavors of melons and lemons with bracing acidity and a crisp, precise finish. Taut and beautiful with plenty of zest.
1999 Domaine Bruno Hunold, Pinot Gris, Alsace, France (Specialty 21205, $11.29) and 1999 Domaine Meyer-Fonne, Tokay Pinot Gris "Reserve Particulere," Alsace, France (Specialty 927, $14.99): These lovely wines are finished in the classic dry style favored by winemakers in Alsace. They have rich, fruity texture and wonderful aromas of citrus, apples and hints of peaches. The dry but fruity flavors are balanced by great mineral acidity.
Dave DeSimone is a member of the Society of Wine Educators and the American Wine Society. He can be reached at desimone @pgharts.org.
Thursday, June 07, 2001
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