Munch goes to Brentwood Express Rowdy B.B.Q.

Remember that old saying about Chinese food? About how it's great, but you're hungry again in an hour? Yeah, well, that is not the case with Brentwood Express Rowdy B.B.Q.

Right now, as Munch is typing this sentence, it has been four hours since Munch ate and still Munch can see no reason to think about dinner. The food sticks to your ribs and then some.

Let's just start with this: It's really good.

Now we can move on.

Munch has seen the place time and time again while driving along Route 51. Brentwood Express Rowdy B.B.Q. (My goodness, but this is an awful name to type.

It is as if the owners couldn't decide whether to call it Brentwood Express or Rowdy B.B.Q.) is the original style of barbecue shack, a style of restaurant seen across the country in various incarnations -- clam shacks in New England, crab shacks in Maryland, catfish shacks in Louisiana.

When it comes to barbecue, Blairsville has Clem's. Brentwood has Brentwood Express.

Brentwood Express is festooned with pictures of flames and has black sign boards painted with yellow and orange letters that say "awesome cheesesteaks," "fresh cut fries," and "chargrilled burgers and dogs."

There are two options for eating at Brentwood Express; either you can sit at the picnic tables next to the car wash with the view of Route 51 or you can take it to your car. Munch and Munch's Best Date (MBD), who suggested eating at Brentwood Express, decided to take it home and sit on the deck, where we could still imagine we were next to Route 51 without the noise or exhaust fumes.

Brentwood Express is a home of the Roethlis-burger, a third of a pound of beef with bacon, provolone, cheddar, ranch and barbecue sauce for $4.50.

Munch decided against the Roethlis-burger -- afraid that a defensive line from some crab shack would come tackle my sandwich.

So, Munch went with the smoked brisket sandwich ($5.50).

There was no lettuce. No tomato. No onion or pickle, though they can be added.

No, this was just meat, laid out on a fresh kaiser roll, and it was heavenly: beautifully smoked so that it was not overwhelming and the meat just fell apart.

MBD had a similarly religious experience with the naked pulled smoked chicken barbecue sandwich ($4.95) -- no dressings on the chicken and none were needed.

Munch and MBD also decided to split a small order of the fresh cuts fries ($1.95) and good thing we shared -- it was a huge order of fries, and best of all, they were recognizable as the potatoes they once were.

We also split an order of wings (six for $3.95). We decided on the seasoned wings, just rubbed with spices and deep fried.

The lovely young woman at the counter let us try the ranch dressing and the mild barbecue sauce for dipping the wings.

Munch dipped the chicken in the barbecue sauce and had a moment of panic, expecting a huge burn that never came.

It had all the precursor of a hugely hot sauce and none of the pain. How did they do that?

Munch doesn't know, but it was really fun.

Munch is going back for more, maybe on Tuesday, when Munch is hungry again.

Brentwood Express Rowdy B.B.Q. 3900 Saw Mill Run Blvd. (Route 51), Brentwood, 412-882-6788.


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