Friday, January 23, 2004

The wind howled up the Downtown streets and Munch and a friend scurried down them, as fast as possible. It was the kind of cold that makes your face freeze and your eyebrows tingle. Munch thanked goodness for the bag that protects Munch's identity, but it didn't help much.

Which is why Munch and FOM ducked into 1902 Landmark Tavern in Market Square, a place Munch has passed many, many times but has never actually dined there, only drank there. Shame on Munch. FOM is a fan of the Tav, however, and Munch jumped on the idea of lunching there, if only because it meant not taking another step on the icy sidewalk.

Inside was dark and warm, with handsome woodwork and a long bar. High-backed booths provide a delicious sense of privacy in the front room, and Munch noticed a more formal dining area just beyond the bar, its tables covered in crisp white linens.

Munch and FOM settled into one of the booths and an attentive waiter, decked out in a crisp white tuxedo shirt and black bow tie, rushed over for drink orders and menu suggestions. Indeed, service would soon prove to be the hallmark of our luncheon: quick, courteous and discreetly professional -- a lovely change from another place Munch recently visited, where the server plopped down in the booth next to Munch, removed Munch's hat and popped it onto her own head. How cute and cheeky, said server must have thought. How annoying, said Munch thought.

Nothing so familiar would happen at the 1902, Munch suspects, and is glad of it. Munch was also glad about lunch. The menu offers an array of pasta dishes, sandwiches, burgers and wraps, along with rather typical appetizers, including shrimp cocktail and Buffalo wings. But Munch was craving a burger, something substantial, something Munch's hands could really wrap around.

But Munch is also carrying more than a bit of holiday weight, so when the server mentioned the daily special of a no-bun burger dish ($7.25), topped with grilled onions and cheese and served on a bed of lettuce and tomato, FOM and Munch decided that perhaps Munch should get on that famous Atkins Diet, if only for one day. Try it on and see how it fits, so to speak.

Slender FOM had no such compunctions and went right for the rib-eye and Cheddar wrap ($8.95), with a side of 1902's famous beer-battered french fries. To tempt Munch a little bit more, FOM asked for those fries to be smothered in a cheese sauce! Huh, thought Munch, with friends like these. ...

Munch stopped complaining when lunch was served. Munch's burger was huge and smothered in grilled onions, melted Cheddar cheese and crisp bacon. It was quite delicious, if a bit overdone for Munch's taste, but it's hard to complain when Munch's mouth is always full. The burger came with a small salad on the side, which Munch also ate with relish.

FOM reports that the rib-eye wrap was tender and juicy and the fries were even better. FOM was a little suspect of the iced tea he ordered, which didn't taste "fresh-brewed" but then, he's rather an iced-tea snob, as Munch can readily attest.

All in all, Munch has no idea why 1902 Tavern has never been Munched at lunch by Munch. Munch intends to make up for the oversight in the future.

1902 Landmark Tavern, 24 Market Square, Downtown. 412-471-1902.

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