Friday, November 28, 2003

Munch was befuddled. How was it that Fuel & Fuddle, a hip joint right off the main drag through Oakland, had never been Munched before?

Munch and a friend (FOM), decided to rectify that situation. On a recent Friday night, Munch and FOM joined the line twining out the front door at Fuel & Fuddle. FOM grumbled that he might very well be the oldest person in the place, and Munch, as always, was glad to have the trusty bag covering Munch's own facial bags. But in short order, when your dazzling dining duo was shown to a center-aisle table, Munch noticed several other balding, paunchy patrons and felt much more at home among the shining young faces of Oakland.

The place was warm and rockin'; to better enter the festive mood, Munch and FOM ordered a round of microbrews from the extensive drinks menu. FOM ordered two Fire Brick Brown Ales, specially brewed for Fuel & Fuddle by the Wild Goose Brewery in Maryland. The nutty, non-bitter ale went down smooth, cooling Munch's moist brow sufficiently so that the Bagged One could better peruse the detailed menu.

The appetizer list was impressive, ranging from the comically titled Dip Sticks (sticks of flatbread served with a cup of marinara sauce) to Rollafatty (a rolled pepperoni bread). Indeed, most entrees featured clever names, but killjoy Munch self-importantly sniffed that no amount of cleverness could mask the efforts of an inferior kitchen -- and Munch was here to separate the prosciutto from the chip-chop ham, so to speak.

"What A Jerk," mumbled FOM, and Munch's head jerked up immediately.

"Who you callin' a jerk?" grumbled Munch, ominously. "You want a piece of me?"

As it turns out, the only piece FOM wanted from Munch was of the Fire-Baked Brie ($6.50), the appetizer Munch had ordered and, too quickly, finished. It might be Munch's all-time favorite appetizer: a creamy wedge of imported brie, wrapped in dough and baked until the cheese is creamy and smooth. The entire concoction is drizzled with honey and served with apple slices, a sublime little marriage of sweet and savory. Indeed, Munch ended up having to share fully half of the dish with FOM, who had his own appetizer, blast it all.

The Wildfire Wings ($5.50), in the Kingston jerk sauce, were zesty and good: monstrous, meaty drumsticks which made Munch marvel at the size of the chicken who turned in these wings.

Munch couldn't decide between Rosa's Three Way, a chicken chili served over penne ($6.50) and Millie's Truck Stop Sirloin ($10), but after tasting the richness of that delectable brie, opted for the no-nonsense goodness of Millie. It was a solid decision. The sirloin was small and unimpressive on its own, but was elevated by a smattering of roasted garlic butter on top. The accompanying smashed potatoes were buttery and skin-chunky, just the way Munch likes 'em. Add in some steamed veggies and Munch was in fine form, though still tempted by thoughts of Rosa.

FOM, gleefully decided not to order What a Jerk (a jerked chicken pasta dish) after he got his dig in, and instead dug into a Befuddling Buffalo Steak burger ($8). This was huge and tasty, reports FOM, topped with apple-smoked bacon and melted Cheddar, served with crispy fries.

"What grown-up food," thought Munch as Munch gazed around the attractive brick room, a happy surprise in the heart of a bar-hopping college town, and made immediate plans to return -- with a group of friends who could order their own appetizers themselves, thank you very much. Munch is happy to share good tidings about Fuel & Fuddle -- but that baked brie? Now that's where Munch draws the line.

Fuel & Fuddle is at 212 Oakland Ave., Oakland. 412-682-FIRE or www.fuelandfuddle.com.

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